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Evinrude 140 looper, need advice/help

Hello all,

i recently purchased an older evinrude engine. The serial on the tilt trim bracket, is E140TLESE. which comes up as a 1990, 140hp. however the power head on my engine does not have the coolant cross over tube, which means its a 92-94? a fellow boater told me who looked at it. Id like to try to identify what year the power head may be so i can order parts as well as a service manual. when i purchased the engine it as it still does, fired right up. did a compression test and numbers were 125 on all 4 cylinders. so i loaded her up and was on my way, i now have her painted black, and rigged up onto my 1971 16' Tahiti.
engine fires right up, and once warmed up, idles down to around 900-1000 rpms on muffs or in a 55 gallon barrel on its side, when idling at running temp, she develops a sneeze, and seems like it misfires, and then runs good again, and then sneezes again, and comes back to life again. i had her on the water and was able to run at 4k rpms but i only had a 19 pitch prop, i think more of a 23 pitch prop will get me to my correct wot rpms. all seemed ok until i got below 1000 rpms, it would develop the sneeze or misfire again. the engine seemed to use alot of gas too, and i was only on the water maybe and hour or two.

i have checked and cleaned all connections especially grounds. she has new plugs and a new cdi electronics rectifier/regulator, because the rpm gauge did not work, with the new rectifier/regulator the rpm gauge works again. however my battery voltage stays the same when not running, idling, and revving to 2-3k. i had also found voltage on the black wire with yellow tracer (kill circuit) which turned out to be a shorted red plug on the engine side which i have now jumped the plug with a new wire.

when i try to check ignition timing at idle it is showing about 8 degrees after top dead center. i have a video of this on youtube but its blurry, ill post the link at the bottom.

i did ohms tests and dva readings on all the electronics and there are a couple things in question but nothing that seems like the electronics have failed. although they could be original? i am going to attach some pictures as well as a link to a youtube video of it running with the sneeze or misfire taking place, the video is a lil blurred i dont know why on my phone it is crystal clear...

any help would be greatly appreciated, if anyone is in the fairfield county/ westchester county areas, and would be able to meet in person id be willing to pay you for your time, and come to you... thank you all again in advance as any knowledge is much appreciated

-joey
 
Cleaning carbs would be my first to do. Going up in pitch on prop would lower your revs. How much is alot of fuel they are not known for being a fuel miser.
 
thank you for your response. i have carb rebuild kits on the way, i had 12 gallons when i left the harbor, had less then half that when i got back and was only on the water for an hour, hour and a half tops
 
thank you for your response. i have carb rebuild kits on the way, i had 12 gallons when i left the harbor, had less then half that when i got back and was only on the water for an hour, hour and a half tops

A 140 HP two stroke will burn approx 14 gallons per hour at WOT
 
It could be around 12 gallons an hour since your boat is only 16'. You can improve fuel consumption considerably by finding your cruising speed instead of running at full throttle.
 
not necessarily...a sneeze is typically from a lean condition

thats what ive been told, so i have carb rebuild kits on the way, also found out that my carbs have different size jets in them. if you are in the boat looking back at the engine the current jets in my carbs are:
top left carb: 50, 41, 61D
top right carb: 54, 41, 61D
bottom left carb: 50, 41, 61D
bottom right carb: 54, 41, 61D

according to an OMC Data Sheet i was given on another forum site, my engine should have jets, 54, 41, 63D installed in all 4 carburetors, not sure how much different it will be with the correct jets installed but i am trying to source the 63D jets, cant seem to fond any anywhere so im kind of stumped at the moment, engine is a 1990 140, E140TLESE

16308804017954047043189315755189.jpg
 
thats what ive been told, so i have carb rebuild kits on the way, also found out that my carbs have different size jets in them. if you are in the boat looking back at the engine the current jets in my carbs are:
top left carb: 50, 41, 61D
top right carb: 54, 41, 61D
bottom left carb: 50, 41, 61D
bottom right carb: 54, 41, 61D

according to an OMC Data Sheet i was given on another forum site, my engine should have jets, 54, 41, 63D installed in all 4 carburetors, not sure how much different it will be with the correct jets installed but i am trying to source the 63D jets, cant seem to fond any anywhere so im kind of stumped at the moment, engine is a 1990 140, E140TLESE




View attachment 27769


You can find the 61D on Ebay and most certainly elsewhere. The PN is 319907
 
You can find the 61D on Ebay and most certainly elsewhere. The PN is 319907

i already have the 61D, they are whats installed in my carbs now, i need the 63D omc #328544, the 63D is the hard one to find, i will most likely be drilling out my 61D's although id really like to find some 63D's, i was able to find 1 so far...
 
sorry i havent posted but i havent gotten any further because the guy on ebay sent me the wrong jets, instead of 3-63d's, he sent me 1-63D, and 2-64s trying to get the correct jets seems to be impossible, guess my next attempt is to find correct drill bits and ream out my current jets, i will post any updates i encounter
 
so ive been able to source 3 - 63D jets so far, 1 off ebay, and 2 i got from jonas at flagship marine, however, 1 of the jets, is flat on the end while the other 2 have a taper on the end, im hoping these will work in my carbs?
 
on a good note i was able source 4 brand new 63D jets from Brys Marine in New Jersey, they should be here today or tomorrow and when they do i will put the carbs back together, lync and sync and post my results...
 
Helloo all, so i finally have an update!! since the last time i posted ive: rebuilt all 4 carbs, reset all floats as all 4 were incorrect, installed all the correct jets as per OMC service manual, replaced all 4 recirculating valves as all 4 were leaking, i also put 4 new cdi electronics coils with wires on because I had them. engine took a little bit to get her started and idling, but once warmed up seem to idle fine, however she would die randomly and starting her back up even when warm was a little troublesome, had to use the rev lever on the control box to get her started even when warm... however when running seemed good, no more "sneezing" so off to the water we went!

on the water, she fired up and idled good, had to use the rev lever on the control box to get her fired up, when i never really had to do that before but anyway, cruising through the harbor was good, rpms stayed consistent, and the engine sounded great, no more "sneeze" like i had before, got to the 5mph buoy and i gave it full throttle, from about a slow cruising 2,000 rpms. boat took off! rpms straight to 5k! stayed at 5k for maybe about 10 seconds and then all of a sudden the engine just kicked in, like the gate to hell opened and shot up to 6k rpms! it felt great!! i couldnt be happier... although it was short lived... i was going so fast and didnt expect the power band i experienced so i pulled back on the throttle, brought it back down to about 4k and cruised for about 5 seconds then gave it full throttle again, but could only achieve 5k.

although at 5k, it does feel great, no stumbling all is smooth, engine doesnt feel rough or shakes at all, even when i bring it back down to idle speed on the control box it seems ok, but once i put it in neutral she wants to die, almost feels like the idle needs to be raised a bit although sometimes itll idle for a while in neutral and never die.... however, not sure why that one instance i was able to get up to 6k rpm and probably more, not sure if my fuel pump isnt sufficient? maybe torn diaphram? or if its electrical and the power pack is not letting it go past 5k rpms? it was just odd how everything worked 100% for that instance but the rest of the hour i was out there i couldnt get it to repeat that awesome-ness... i even tried pushing the key in when at 5k, but it would just make the motor bog down, which i was told is good news.. all in all i think i am in the right direction, hopefully you guys will read my tremendously long posts and share some knoweldge... all is much appreciated
 
thank you all that have responded! i now have another update!...

so i did the lync and sync, well i did all the steps up until the parts you have to do in the water, (water test and finish sync is tomorrow) and at first the engine would not start, it would crank and fire, but would not fire up... so after some investigating i found out i was not getting good spark, i pulled on the ground wire that comes off power pack to a ring connector and grounds to the engine behind the #1 coil top bolt and the wire broke loose from the ring connector, so i skinned the wire back, cleaned it up and put a new heat shrink ring connector on... still weak spark on all 4 intermittently, sometimes only 2 spark plugs were actually sparking... these are brand new cdi coils... so i decided to put my original evinrude coils back on and spark was phenomenal on all 4... so i put the spark plugs back in, turned the key, and BAM! engine fired up immediately! like it never has before, i didnt even have the cold start lever up at all... so i let it run, engine came up to temp, and idled down to a nice 900-1000k (i have the engine in a 55 gallon barrel on its side, full of water to a little bit over the cavitation plate.) she continue to idle great, no roughness at all, no hesitation, and NO MORE SNEEZING!! i know i have to check ignition timing in the water, in gear, tied to the dock, but i figured i would try my timing light anyway and it was pretty close to the omc idle spec of 8 degrees after top dead center. so it seems like i am ready for the next water test!!

however, after all of this i decided to see if my primer bulbs stays hard after i pump it up... it does not.. i can pump the bulb, it will get hard, but if jump out of the boat, walk around the boat and jump back in i can pump the bulb again as if i never pumped it.... although, even if i dont pump it again and its not hard anymore, the engine still fires right up with just a bump of the ignition key and will stay running... not sure why the bulb wont stay hard? maybe the bulb is bad? possible leak somewhere? my real question is should i not water test knowing the bulb does not stay hard? would this condition make the engine run lean?? again, any help would be greatly appreciated! trying to get this sorted out while i can still water test
 
The bulb is a manual fuel pump.------Used to fill the carburetors.----After that is done it does nothing and does NOT need to stay hard.
 
update*** put the tahiti in the water today and it ran pretty flawless... fired up immediately without the need of the rev arm on the control box, and i didnt even push the key in. engine was consistent the entire hour i was out there, every time i gave it wide open throttle rpms shot to 6k, anytime i brought it down to idle speed or even putting it in neutral, engine idled great! never stalled once!

i checked ignition timing while tied to the dock in gear at idle, it was just a hair off from the 8 degreees atdc, i wanted to adjust it but felt like i was splitting hairs with how close it is... so say it was at 6 or 7 degrees atdc, if i bumped it to 8 degrees atdc that would be retarding the timing right? and say it was at 10 dgerees atdc and i brought it back to 8 degress that would be advancing right? or do i have that backwards?

the only place i felt the engine wasnt a full 100% was between 1500 and 2000 rpms, although i am not familiar with how its supposed to feel at those rpms it just seemed like it wasnt as smooth, although the engine wasnt shaking or anything, people have told me these engines are rougher then others at lower rpms, but it didnt bother me, just want to make sure i have this engine 100%. from 1500 rpms or less or 2000 rpms or more evrything is smooth as butter, i think i am over thinking the slight roughness between 1500 and 2000 rpms. in all honesty i am extremely happy with the way the boat and engine performed.

thank you to everyone who has helped me out, if anyone is ever in the stamford/greenwich/port chester area id be more then happy to take you for a ride on the sound in a Tahiti kind of way
 
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