Volvo Penta AQ DP 290 Drive. What to look for?

I am on the lookout for a small cabin cruiser.

I found a Monterey 256 Cruiser from 1995. It originally had a V8 Volvo Penta Petrol (gas) engine, but since 20004 it has been fitted with a 230hp Detroit Diesel/VM Engine Engine Type - 97B & Version - V42 (whatever those mean) , coupled to a Volvo Penta DP 290 Sterndrive. The boat looks to be in nice condition for her age, however I do not know much about the Engine/SD combo.

We will perform sea trial with a mechanic and survey it next Wednesday.

Do you have some info/advice on the particular Drive in question please?

Some qeuries I have:

- I know there are 290 a/c/c etc. How would you know which version the drive is please? What are the differences?
- When has this drive production started & stopped?
- Is it considered a reliable Volvo Penta drive? Should I be worried about the age of the drive?
- If not, what should I look for to ensure it has been well looked after?

Thanks in advance !

The letter suffix on the drive number relates to the drive reduction. 4 cylinder and 8 cylinder motors require different reduction ratios for example.
If the drive hasn't been modified by changing out the lowest 1/3 of the leg, the letter after the 290 tells you which drive reduction you have.
I don't know the production dates...
The 280 and 290 Volvo drives are among the most reliable Volvo drives. I have a circa 1987 280 on my boat that I bought as a salvage from
a sunken boat... Runs fine. Only repairs.... replaced seal on shift arm... and the bearing crosses after a vandal punched a hole in my drive boot.

Check condition of drive oil and the drive boot. A well cared for 200 series Volvo drive has the drive boot replaced every couple of years before
it degrades and leaks. Well cared for 200 series drives are ALWAYS left in the down position with the drive brought up only for the duration
of any trailering. Check condition of the zincs. .. If used in salt water, painting with a copper free anti fouling is critical. The Achilles heal of these
drives is the fitting on the drive that the raw water exits the drive. They rot and develop pin holes and prevent proper cooling o f the engine.
Check the condition of the hydraulics, if equipped. Check that the prop shaft is lubricated otherwise the props get stuck on the shaft(s)... badly.
Make sure the grease fittings on the drive have been greased otherwise steering problems will occur.

I have an electronic copy of the OEM shop manual for that drive if you are interested.... PM me your email address.

Thanks for your helpful reply. The issue is that I am quite certain that I will not be able to see the letter suffix on the drive since this has been antifouled every year.

Yes her last owner for the past 4 years looks like he has serviced and maintained it meticulously. Before that, I do not know.

He did assure me that he always kept the drive completely down in the water and also asked his wife to look over the bathing platform to make sure that he leaves it on the pontoon with the drive perfectly straight. It is in the water all the time for 3-4 months in summer and on the dry the rest of the year.

Well... if during sea trial, the engine at Wide Open Throttle, revs up to within the engine's rated WOT RPM range, likely reduction and props are correct.