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Delco EST Timing - Service mode not working

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Ottopotamus

New member
First time post and new boat owner.

I got a 1987 Starcraft Islander with a 3.0L and Alpha outdrive for a great price since he couldn't get the engine started and the kicker wouldn't go into forward gear. I got the engine started after new plugs and filing the points. Rather than replace the points, I wanted to upgrade to electronic ignition, figuring it would pay for itself over time and I would have better reliability. I went with the Delco EST over the Pertronix after various forums seemed to indicate the EST was more reliable.

The upgrade kit came with an ‘initial timing connector’ to allow for easy timing. Unfortunately, the timing didn’t change when inserting the initial timing connector while following the timing directions. I checked my wiring 3 times. My google research showed me the most common issue was that the voltage at the coil was too low due since the ballast resistor or resistor wire was not removed. My voltage at the coil/choke is 13.5V while running. Further google research showed that one person with this issue was able to get his unit to go into ‘service mode’ at a higher RPM than idle. Of course, this didn’t help since initial timing is to be performed at idle RPMs.

The Mercruiser manual states the following after the initial timing process:
With timing light still connected, and engine at IDLE, verify that timing did advance to 12° BTDC, (plus or minus 2°). At 2400-2800 RPM maximum (total) advance is obtained and should be 27° BTDC (plus or minus 2°).

This made me think that I can try to time the engine to meet these requirements. This is the process I used:
  • Used normal wiring and timed the engine to 12° BTDC at idle (~650 RPMs)
  • Checked timing at 3000 RPMs for max advance and was not within 2°
  • Adjusted timing to 27° BTDC at max advance
  • Checked timing at idle again and was not within 2°
  • Adjusted timing to 25° BTDC at max advance and verified timing at idle to be 13° BTDC

So with timing set to 13° BTDC at idle and 25° BTDC at max advance, my results meet the requirements of the Mercruiser manual after the initial timing process.

Is there any reason why there would be any issues with the way it is setup now?

Thanks,
Stuart
 
Ottopotamus said:
First time post and new boat owner.

I got a 1987 Starcraft Islander with a 3.0L and Alpha outdrive for a great price since he couldn't get the engine started and the kicker wouldn't go into forward gear. I got the engine started after new plugs and filing the points. Rather than replace the points, I wanted to upgrade to electronic ignition, figuring it would pay for itself over time and I would have better reliability. I went with the Delco EST over the Pertronix after various forums seemed to indicate the EST was more reliable.

The upgrade kit came with an ‘initial timing connector’ to allow for easy timing. Unfortunately, the timing didn’t change when inserting the initial timing connector while following the timing directions. I checked my wiring 3 times. My google research showed me the most common issue was that the voltage at the coil was too low due since the ballast resistor or resistor wire was not removed. My voltage at the coil/choke is 13.5V while running. Further google research showed that one person with this issue was able to get his unit to go into ‘service mode’ at a higher RPM than idle. Of course, this didn’t help since initial timing is to be performed at idle RPMs.

The Mercruiser manual states the following after the initial timing process:
With timing light still connected, and engine at IDLE, verify that timing did advance to 12° BTDC, (plus or minus 2°). At 2400-2800 RPM maximum (total) advance is obtained and should be 27° BTDC (plus or minus 2°).

This made me think that I can try to time the engine to meet these requirements. This is the process I used:
  • Used normal wiring and timed the engine to 12° BTDC at idle (~650 RPMs)
  • Checked timing at 3000 RPMs for max advance and was not within 2°
  • Adjusted timing to 27° BTDC at max advance
  • Checked timing at idle again and was not within 2°
  • Adjusted timing to 25° BTDC at max advance and verified timing at idle to be 13° BTDC

So with timing set to 13° BTDC at idle and 25° BTDC at max advance, my results meet the requirements of the Mercruiser manual after the initial timing process.

Is there any reason why there would be any issues with the way it is setup now?

Thanks,
Stuart
Click to expand...

that should work fine if your total advance essentially matches oem curve. Keep an ear out for detonation, retard it if you hear any
 
Dieter said:
that should work fine if your total advance essentially matches oem curve. Keep an ear out for detonation, retard it if you hear any
Click to expand...

It has just been very frustrating when it didn't work the way the procedure describes. I really appreciate the confirmation, just for my sanity. :)
 
FWIW, the advance curve in the EST module is very 'steep' in the 'idle' range. It's been my experience that best results are obtained setting the timing the way you did it (max advance at 3000 RPM) and then live with the setting at idle as long as it starts ok when hot....
 
Ottopotamus said:
It has just been very frustrating when it didn't work the way the procedure describes. I really appreciate the confirmation, just for my sanity. :)
Click to expand...
Im sure if you google it you will see some folks not being able to get the EST into base mode, trying different modules etc . You're fine where you are at, it accomplishes the same thing.
 
Question

How and when did you jump for base timing?
I believe it matters when. Before starting or while running.

did you follow factory procedures?
 
kghost said:
Question

How and when did you jump for base timing?
I believe it matters when. Before starting or while running.

did you follow factory procedures?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what you are asking. I was never able to achieve what the factory procedure says to do with 'initial timing.' I would start the engine, warm it up and then attach the 'initial timing' harness. I would time the engine according to procedure (1 deg BTDC) but when I removed 'initial timing' harness and restored the normal operating harness, the timing did not change at all. The factory procedure said it should have been around 12 degrees BTDC.
 
What I am suggesting is,
Should the jumper harness be installed with emgine Off then started.

If done while running it may not have an effect on setting base.

I have not looked at the procedure to understand but other mercruiser systems require a simple jumper.
I believe it has to be installed with engine off. Then started. Set base, shut engine off, remove jumper. Then restart and control will take over.

Just curious of your EXACT Procedure.
 
The EST system has a 'initial timing connector' and it has a 12VDC connection that has to be made...and doing it in the wrong order can damage the module...So the answer to Jack's question can be significant...
 
According to the A-Team procedure, after starting the engine and allowing it to reach operating temperature, "WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING, install the initial timing connector supplied with your engine into the (4) terminal connector on the distributor."

The Mercruiser manual has the same procedure. I followed the procedure which includes attaching the black wire of the initial timing connector to 12V. I tried connecting the original connector back to the distributor with the engine running and also tried after turning off the engine and restarting. Neither produced different results.

I will say that after a few tests on the water that the engine seems to be running fine, so I'm pretty confident that everything is good.

Thanks for the feedback!
 
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