20 foot 1997 Maxum 2050 bowrider propeller question

gica69 said:

Ok so above 4200 at wot is not necessarily a must. Nonetheless when I dock I always have to reverse to break, it seems to be going a tick too fast, I of course got used to it like this and adrift to the dock in neutral, and that because there is nobody there.
When I was in Laughlin to go to the annual gathering of friends from to Mohave lake different story. Hundreds of boats everywhere in the marina. So drifting there is a nono.

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Think about what you just asked.............

If your in gear at idle speed is to high then it needs to be adjusted lower it. I run my boat idle in gear at about 625-650 rpm. I have no issues.


Did you confirm idle rpm when you jumped the ignition base timing wires? You cannot adjust idle rpm off a timing light when the Base mode is not jumped. The timing varies so the idle looks like your video of it...............all over the place.................




"""I always have to reverse to break"""......................I would suggest you need more experience/training in operating a boat! Not going to respond to this any other way!

Single stern drive is by far the most challenging at low speed. You have virtually zero tracking from the hull itself, and the prop is trying to push the rear end around to the side. You're constantly trying to counter these dynamics while keeping on course. Add sea state, wind, traffic and it can be a real test of your abilities. It's hard to idle down to a point where you have steering and control without going too fast.
This is why the counter rotating props of the Bravo 3, Duo Prop, Zeus, etc make low speed life so much easier. The tracking is linear and operations like backing down are direct and predictable. At high speed there is no "prop walk".
If you're constantly in tight quarters and want more control consider upgrading to a boat with this type of drive. Twin drives will also give you much more control. You can add or reduce power to one or the other to help balance the tracking. Also helpful at docking where you can use on or the other in reverse to swing the bow left or right.

Was just reading on the vacuum advanced on my thunderbolt V since it's 10 at base idle 650 rom what is the total timing advance at, 32? And at what rpm, 3500? Wanted to check that too as the guy at the boat place said I should. This doesn't have to be done in Base mode right? And in the water or can it be done in the parking lot?

Your timing is electronic not vacuum.
Marine does not use vacuum advance.
Older point ignitions used counter wieghts and springs wich advanced the point plate.

You do not have a timing advance problem.
No need to go there.

But if you must check, you do it in normal operation mode and you dont have to be in the water. Just supply water to drive with muffs.

Full timing comes in between 2400 and 3200 with your timing module. you should see 10 base + 24 advance = ~ 34* total BTDC.
It may or may not reach 34* but if close thats says timing advance is working fine!

Ok I got the 4BL propeller and I have what you'd call a WTF moment. I tested the engine and the belt spins clockwise which means LH and I ordered a propeller for that.
I compared it to mine and it's opposite.

I just got my prop the 14.5x17 and it is a left hand prop.
I put it next to mine and mine looks like a right hand prop. Am I hallucinating? I went based on the picture included that showed pulley turns clockwise it's a LH.



The new prop is sitting on the paper.
I am at the engine double checking and when I turn the key the main crank pulley is spinning to the right clockwise.
So based on the picture above I should get a LH prop.
My old pulley is a right hand prop and boat ran as it should, minus RPM.
I think my drive is right hand prop. Based on this article

https://www.perfprotech.com/blog/articles/marine-engine-rotation

With engine on my prop rotates clock wise when I face the front of the boat in forward gear.
Counter clockwise in reverse.

ALL standard single engine I/O boats are left hand/standard rotation.
Counter rotation engines if still used are used in dual engine I/O applications.

Most of today's I/O boats running duel engines are standard rotation and the "counter rotation" is controlled in the lower gear case of the out drive.

Standard rotation out drive in forward gear will spin prop CLOCKWISE.
In reverse will spin the prop COUNTER CLICK WISE.

With engine OFF!!!
Shift control to forward gear position.
Now spin prop shaft Counter clock wise.
Prop shaft should lock.
If you spin prop shaft clock wise it should not lock but "ratchet" like but not lock.

If it works that way the your drive is standard.
If you shift into forward and spin prop shaft Clockwise and it locks then you may have a counter rotation lower gear case.

If it is as it should be then you may have purchased or received a RH rotation prop.

As the shafts rotate the counter clockwise rotating input gear drives the intermediate shaft clockwise (viewing from above) which drives the forward gear clockwise, thus requiring a right hand propeller.

mcomm said:

As the shafts rotate the counter clockwise rotating input gear drives the intermediate shaft clockwise (viewing from above) which drives the forward gear clockwise, thus requiring a right hand propeller.

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Agreed,
He needs to purchase a STANDARD PROPELLER Not RH or LH

I never looked at props as LH or RH

Only standard or counter rotation......................

I did get one I guess propeller goes opposite fly wheel.

I am also looking at some smart tabs. My friends Trophy has them and it runs so much smoother on choppy waters. The only issue is that you cannot control them. I already have a fin on the drive, but that is not as efficient. What do you guys think, are electric ones better, I mean obviously they can be controlled. They cost a lot though.

Having a whale tale attched to your out drive will slow max rpm and speed. Duh!


Trim tabs may or may not work well with your hull style.
That boat really is not a salt water cruiser.

It is a Bayliner in sheeps clothing and is really intended for pleasure boating and in my opinion should be used in relatively calm water and more specifically, fresh water.

My boat has hydrualic trim tabs and I leave them all the way up and never use them. Much better performance.
Also I only use my boat on fresh water...

I agree with the speed but rpm but rpm!? That's really the propeller mainly.

Yes but one does affect the other.

For future discussion ,

Start referring to your set up as

STANDARD ROTATION.

No need to get all confused on right or left.

99.99% of all single I/O boats are standard rotation!!

For sure standard it is, sounds better anyways.