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1987 OMC 2.3l coil is getting hot

J

jcdservices

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Hello, Coil is getting hot, voltage is always at battery voltage, if the alternator is putting out 13.7v the coil is at 13.7v the longer the engine runs, the engine will start to cut out at WOT, then gets slower. I can not find a resister, is it in the alternator? Thank you
 
jcdservices said:
Hello, Coil is getting hot, voltage is always at battery voltage, if the alternator is putting out 13.7v the coil is at 13.7v the longer the engine runs, the engine will start to cut out at WOT, then gets slower. I can not find a resister, is it in the alternator? Thank you
Click to expand...

Coil should be getting around 9 volts when the engine is running and full voltage during cranking. The positive side of the coil should have a purple/black 16 gauge wire from the starter selenoid AND a purple/red 20 gauge resistance wire coming from the cable connector. If you cannot find the resistor wire you can install a ballast resistor to do the same job
 
I have tried a RU10t ballast resister and a RU11t, I can't get the voltage to drop lower than 1 volt under battery voltage, I even tried running them in series.
 
jcdservices said:
I have tried a RU10t ballast resister and a RU11t, I can't get the voltage to drop lower than 1 volt under battery voltage, I even tried running them in series.
Click to expand...

I'd be surprised if you've got two bad ballast resistors. First I'd do a resistance test on each resistor. Should be around 2 ohms each. If this checks out then I'm lead to believe you are getting 13 volts from the only other wire you have connected to the positive terminal of the coil. Make sure it is hooked up to the correct terminal on the starter selenoid. Should only produce volts when key is turned to the start position. I suspect you've got that end hooked up to the wrong post and it's delivering full voltage to the coil all the time. Let me know what you find,good luck
 
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