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Major cooling issue

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1ton

Contributing Member
I have a 3.0 that is poring water into the bell housing thus into the bilge. What could be the cause?

Please help. Will
 
I was told it wouldn't start. Melted wires caused that. Fixed it. Got it to crank and start. That's when I noticed the water poring into the bilge from behind the bell housing. I'm thinking the overheating caused the wires to melt. Does sound like a core plug tho. I would have to pull the drive, then the engine to fix that. Right? I need to call my buddy and get some more info. Maybe he didn't winterize.

Thanks for your help. Will
 
1ton said:
I was told it wouldn't start. Melted wires caused that. Fixed it. Got it to crank and start. That's when I noticed the water poring into the bilge from behind the bell housing. I'm thinking the overheating caused the wires to melt. Does sound like a core plug tho. I would have to pull the drive, then the engine to fix that. Right? I need to call my buddy and get some more info. Maybe he didn't winterize.

Thanks for your help. Will
Click to expand...

Yes pull drive and then engine . Remove flywheel cover/bellhousing and then flywheel probably as well. Core plugs can rot out but likely improperly winterized. If winterization is suspect- you can replace core plugs then pressure test cooling jackets to see if they are cracked and run it on the ground. No sense putting it back in if the block is cracked.

3.0s usually crack under the intake/exhaust manifold on the outside of the block
 
3.0 usually crack under the exhaust manifold on the engine block horizontally as the water jacket is there.

If this is so after replacement of the core plug,
Grind lightly along crack to expose raw metal and JB weld the crap out of it.
This typeof repair on 4 cylinders with cracked external water jacket works and lasts for years with no leakage or effect on cooling.
 
Thanks a lot guys. Talked to Scott and he never winterized or even changed the water pump in the 9/10 years he's had the boat. WOW! Looks like I'm gonna pull a drive/engine. If there is a crack in the block wouldn't there be a rust stain at the crack?

Thanks. Will
 
The plug above the crankshaft was laying in the bottom of the bell housing beat to heck. I have scraped and scraped to clean the block where the plug goes. Any tips on getting it clean and whats the best type of plug to put back in?

That was rough on this old man pulling the engine myself. Plus side is it will be much easier to repair the melted wires with the engine out. Someone broke the short starter bolt off too. Definitely gonna fix that with it out.

Thanks for the help. Will
 
try the expanding rubber type. You can get those on Amazon.
Put 'er in the hole and screw!

No, wait, those instructions are for a different thing...
 
Why not order the exact one and replace it.
This site may have it.

Also once you get that core plug fixed, make sure you run while out of boat, supply water to input hose to thermostat.

Once core plug is fixed and you run engine to temp.
Any other cracks/leaks will be exposed due to cooling system now being under pressure.
 
That's kinda what I thought. The slug I dug out looks like a thick brass plug. I do like to use OEM or equivalent quality when I can. I've never started an engine out of the boat :( Is there a Readers Digest version of how to wire it? Also, after steam cleaning the engine, there is a hot spot (ie. paint is burnt and metal looks a little disfigured) just across from the carb, between the head and manifold that concerns me. Is that a typical look there and nothing to worry about, or? Once I isolated the melted wires, the engine started and ran rather well while still in the boat. There is no water in the oil. I know it's hard to diagnose an engine through a chat line, but thus far everyone has been a great help.Thanks again. Will
 
With engine either sitting on driveway and supported to stay up right, or attached to chain,

1. hook up gas source to same location as boat gas tank line was, Should be a barb fitting at fuel pump or water separating filter if you have one installed. (best if you can get an outboard tank as source)

2. Connect battery to engine as it was in boat (only battery + to starter and Battery - to ground stud)

3. There is ONE hose that feeds thermostat housing that is about 1 inch diameter that was attached at transom (incoming water supply). Connect water hose to this hose. It does not have to be a tight connection but good enough to hold the two together.

4. Attached is a hand drawn schematic showing a "remote jumper rig". One switch is a on/off, the other is a momentary switch. Connect as shown. Wire leads should be 4 feet long each and have alligator clips on ends.

How it will work,

connect water and gas. Connect jumper rig as shown, ( make sure ON/OFF is OFF!!)

Throttle will be controlled by hand as no cable is attached.

Pump throttle a couple times as you would normally when starting boat.

(note-point ignitions will work but it is not recommended to run this way for a long time. Point ignitions have a resistor wire in engine wire harness and this rig is bypassing that)

turn on water, it does not have to be full pressure just enough to feed engine. make sure you dont over pressurize hose to thermostat housing so having water leaking out of connection to garden hose is OK.
turn On/OFF switch on, this applies voltage to coil.
Next toggle momentary switch and this will crank the engine over and it should start.

Control idle by hand until the engine warms up enough to run on its own (or turn up idle screw to to higher idle for this)

to shut engine off simply turn ON/OFF switch OFF

Remote starter set up.jpg


If you do this any additional leaks should be found if they exist.

The hot spot may be normal as it is the area for an older heat tube used to pre warm carb/choke. If you can get a picture and upload that would confirm.
 
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I suggested the rubber plug only because there is a possibility that the hole is all messed up and getting a OE replacement to fit and seal may be a challenge. These things don't just pop out for no reason. We hope the block not rendered useless by the PO's lack of care.
 
It was obvious that someone had repaired behind or tampered with the manifold bolts/studs. I ordered the all the parts I thought it would need including the carb base gasket. One nut was left started on the carb base. Sure enough there the manifold and carb gasket had rust in that area. Obviously leaking. Ordered that gasket too. Under the manifold I found JB weld on the block. A long strip of it about an inch down from the head that was long enough to span 2 head bolts. About 6 inches ish. The block has separated almost 3/16 of an inch by one head bolts. Just about an inch down from the block deck! I told him the engine was toast. A crack in the block that big, by a head bolt, rear freeze plug block area is really pitted after light wire wheel cleaning(I agree with the rubber plug on this one) and he still wants me to JB weld it! Ive cleaned the crack very well and maybe etch the metal before applying the weld. 2min, 2hrs, 2wks, 2yrs? I did have it running before diagnosing the freeze plug. Now finding this. Damn. Any advice? Would the weld hold maybe a couple of yrs? You all have been a big help. Iv'e told him its trashed and he wants me to fix it. Whats your opinion?

Thanks again. Will
 
1ton said:
It was obvious that someone had repaired behind or tampered with the manifold bolts/studs. I ordered the all the parts I thought it would need including the carb base gasket. One nut was left started on the carb base. Sure enough there the manifold and carb gasket had rust in that area. Obviously leaking. Ordered that gasket too. Under the manifold I found JB weld on the block. A long strip of it about an inch down from the head that was long enough to span 2 head bolts. About 6 inches ish. The block has separated almost 3/16 of an inch by one head bolts. Just about an inch down from the block deck! I told him the engine was toast. A crack in the block that big, by a head bolt, rear freeze plug block area is really pitted after light wire wheel cleaning(I agree with the rubber plug on this one) and he still wants me to JB weld it! Ive cleaned the crack very well and maybe etch the metal before applying the weld. 2min, 2hrs, 2wks, 2yrs? I did have it running before diagnosing the freeze plug. Now finding this. Damn. Any advice? Would the weld hold maybe a couple of yrs? You all have been a big help. Iv'e told him its trashed and he wants me to fix it. Whats your opinion?

Thanks again. Will
Click to expand...

Just explain doing what he wants you to do and "fixing it" are likely two different things....
 
I have tried so bad. I keep getting stories about pulling grand kids on tubes. I have told him numerous times the engine is shot and went as far to tell him to get more paddles that this thing has come unglued. I keep getting "just JB weld it". I don't run it that hard. I'm wanting to pull my hair out, what little I have left, trying to explain to this guy. The fact it just wont last Scott cant comprehend. I have a lot of time in this thing. Several hours of charity too. He's a good guy and retired vet. Looks like I'll be stocking up on Ramen :)
 
I JB welded the thing and got it back in. Is it okay to briefly start the engine before putting the drive on?
 
1ton said:
I JB welded the thing and got it back in. Is it okay to briefly start the engine before putting the drive on?
Click to expand...
Yes you can start it without the drive, you can also jam a hose in the water port on the bellhouing and run it this will supply cooling water. A washing machine hose cut in half works great to jamb it in there
 
This s**t keeps getting deeper. I found a broken bolt in the bilge. Day one. Obviously a starter bolt. Was able to get the broken portion out with engine with it on the floor. Got a new bolt with all other parts. Tried to just bump start it then shut it off and its making a sound like a ***** card against bicycle spokes, but louder. What the heck! I thought someone over torquing broke the starter bolt. Could it be an automotive starter causing this? I'm gonna pull the plugs and hook up a remote starter to try and isolate the sound. I think my I/O days are over. Please HELP!
 
Non marine starter not likely an issue if its correct rotation, teeth, etc.

Re: "I/O days are over".... Not an I/O problem.... client deficiency issue... :)

I'd put in writing that you've performed the work exactly as he directed against your better professional judgement and do not represent that this will result in properly running engine.
 
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