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1999 Nissan 120A2 Lower Unit Removal

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Plimbob

New member
Hello,

I am in the process of removing the lower unit and the access to the pin in the connector is very limited with the shifter in the neutral position. Should the shifter be put in reverse or forward to allow better access? Also, in removal of the pin, is that just tapping with a punch?

One other question, when the lower end went out I was running about 4,800 rpm. It didn't lock the engine up or anything but it revved doer a second I put it in neutral immediately. What are the chances it created damage to the upper end. I assume when I get the unit out I can inspect the upper splines to see if there is any damage to those which would indicate potential issues. Any other checks I should make before I put another lower unit in?

Thanks,
Tim
 
Yes, the roll pin is, I believe 3.5 mm. A punch of exactly the right size is good. Forward is a good spot to remove the pin.
I have never seen damaged drive shaft splines, but if you really hit something, you could twist the drive shaft.
 
Thanks Paul for the information - very much appreciated.

I didn't hit anything, the engine revved and the lower unit started clattering so I immediately put it in neutral. tried to put it gear and continued to clatter and died.
The prop was essentially froze up and the external housing with the 2 bolts was cracked. I figure I will pull it off make sure the drive splines aren't damaged and if not replace the lower unit. Are there any companies which sell rebuilt lower units for Nissan? I have found some for Merc, Evenrude and Honda but not Nissan.
Thanks again,
Tim
 
Hmm. I don't know about rebuilds, but the LU is available new, in the "midnight black" color:
3C7Q87302ALOWER UNIT (L)$2732.72

Most dealers will discount that significantly.
 
Hey Paul, what is the best method of reattaching the speedometer tube, another zip tie (concerned I won't get it tight enough) or a very small hose clamp?

Thank you very much for your help!
Tim
 
Paul, also, I wanted to mention when I pulled the lower unit there a some gas/oil mixture on the upper end of the drive shaft. I assume there is a slight bit of wear on the seals allowing that to happen or am I looking a more major wear issue?

Thanks again,
Tim
 
Plimbob said:
Hey Paul, what is the best method of reattaching the speedometer tube, another zip tie (concerned I won't get it tight enough) or a very small hose clamp?

Thank you very much for your help!
Tim
Click to expand...
If the tube is reasonably tight, the tie wrap is almost unnecessary, so any retainer should work.
 
Plimbob said:
Paul, also, I wanted to mention when I pulled the lower unit there a some gas/oil mixture on the upper end of the drive shaft. I assume there is a slight bit of wear on the seals allowing that to happen or am I looking a more major wear issue?

Thanks again,
Tim
Click to expand...

Sounds normal for those old smokeys.
 
Paul, sorry for all the questions! I ran into a situation on the used unit I bought from a marina. The speedometer outlet is missing, so I was going to take the one out of the existing L. How does the outlet tube come out?

Also, the one I bought has light brownish powder substance packed in the hole. I tried to used a small pick to dig it out and my air compressor to blow it out but it seems to be all through the passage. Does the speedometer passage run into the water pump housing?

I apologize for the bother!
Tim
 
The rt angle tube connects to a nipple ahead of the cam rod. All that stuff has to be clear. No connection to water pump. Many just switch to a separate pitot tube pickup external to the motor. Those things aren't very accurate, especially at low speeds.
 
Paul, the nipple was broken off and getting the remainder out has proved to be a tad of a challenge. If I chose not to use it, should the hole be plugged and the intake hose which attached be plugged as well?

Thanks,
Tim
 
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