Stuck Flywheel

I have a 1958 Evinrude 7.5hp that I'm working on. I can't remove the flywheel. I am using a 3-jaw puller and have the 1/4-20 bolts threaded in as far as they will go without interfering with anything below them. I even tried a piece of pipe on the breaker bar and socket, but the center screw on the puller acts like it's bottomed out or something. I tried hitting the sides of flywheel with a dead-blow hammer, but that didn't work either. Anybody got any suggestions on where to go from here?

You do not use a 3 jaw puller !!----Use the 3 bolts.-------You need to hit the center bolt after the 3 bolts 1/4-20NC are tight.----Use a hefty hammer.----Or tighten the 1/4 bolts little more a bit at a time.-----With 45 FT-LBS torque the flywheel taper is stretched over the crank taper so yes it takes a bit of effort to get flywheels off.

I am using a puller with 3 bolts. I squirted a little PB Blaster around the shaft and am going to let it sit overnite. I just finished looking for answers on Google and someone said to heat the flywheel with a heat gun for an hour around the shaft. Is it okay to use an impact wrench on center screw of the puller or it that too much torque?

...Have someone hold the wheel up to take out the end play slop and use racerone technique.

??---I have never needed to use heat or PB blaster on a 3 / 5.5 / 6 / 7.5 / 10 / 18 HP model.----Use a good ( solid ) puller like the OMC factory puller ( have 3 of them ) and you will not have an issue !!

Was the flywheel nut really tight? Might have to use a little flash heat....not slow.....but flash heat at hub. Then pour cool water over the heated area. Then reheat flywheel hub again, (with good tension on puller), and when flash heat has expanded the hub ever so slightly....whack the top of puller tension bolt, with a med. size hammer. You can have some hardwood wedges ok opposite sides between flywheel and block.....if there is room.....to hold things secure. Once I saw where some fool had a damaged flywheel hub and put loctite there and around the keyway. The heat weakened the loctite....and she "popped" right off. Racer highlights the need for a good quality puller, not some cheapo that is designed for steering wheels.

I just removed the flywheel from a 7hp sears 1972 by using the
3 bolts to pull and a little heat one inch away from the crank
and it pop right off.
A small amount of heat I THINK does not hurt.
Just enough to expand the hole a couple of tenths.

If you get a SUPER heavy duty wrench. $40 at any auto store. Not the little 1/4 inch drive. The big one. The 3 bolt puller will get it with a big breaker bar. I pulled my flywheel off my 1996 225 Johnson. Just keep walking with that breaker bar and it will come off. I used a vice grip infront of the starter

Ratchet not wrench

Never had an issue pulling a 7.5 HP flywheel.

Yes, we can't be there to see what's going on. Besides that, I think that he already got it removed.

I never was able to get off, so I took it to a outboard repair shop. Two days later, they called and said they finally got off - don't ask me how.