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Gauges suddenly have problems

cabernet39

New member
my 1990 silverton has faria gauges that have been updated in 2012, my port oil pressure gauge was recently pegging with the key in the run position
, engine not running, after testing resistance i found the 80 psi single station sender to be bad so I replaced and everything works fine on port.

Meanwhile my starboard Oil Pressure climbs to 40 -45 psi with key on while the Tach climbs to 1100 rpms when i turn the key on, engine not running, i replaced the starboard sender to no avail, same condition for both the tach and gauge, this problem is getting out of hand and I would appreciate
some first hand experience before i start replacing wire from switch to gauge

Ivan
 
i would say you need to do a bit of troubleshooting on the stbd side before changing things...I'd be inclined to worry about how they behave with the engine running vs engine off. Everybody makes their gauges a bit different so the KOEO states tend to be different.

for most gauges, you can remove the sending wire and apply power to the gauge. they will typically go to the MIN value (on the peg). if you want to check the accuracy you can use resistors between the sender terminal and ground on the gauge....most will go to center value with a 110 ohm resistor. tachs need to be compared with a know good gauge, a tach tester or a pulse generator.

finally, the gauges need a solid power connection...typically, when rigged, they get a 'daisy chain' for the 12VDC leads...one marginal connection and everything 'downstream' will go funky....and the ground side is just as important and the B+ side...
 
i would say you need to do a bit of troubleshooting on the stbd side before changing things...I'd be inclined to worry about how they behave with the engine running vs engine off. Everybody makes their gauges a bit different so the KOEO states tend to be different.

for most gauges, you can remove the sending wire and apply power to the gauge. they will typically go to the MIN value (on the peg). if you want to check the accuracy you can use resistors between the sender terminal and ground on the gauge....most will go to center value with a 110 ohm resistor. tachs need to be compared with a know good gauge, a tach tester or a pulse generator.

finally, the gauges need a solid power connection...typically, when rigged, they get a 'daisy chain' for the 12VDC leads...one marginal connection and everything 'downstream' will go funky....and the ground side is just as important and the B+ side...




Thanks
I will do a bit more trouble shooting, i have done much of what you suggest including supplanting power, ground and signal from the panel
with jump wires
 
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