2004 BF 150 Flushing port blocked.

The boat is new to me, I told the mechanic to check everything before I splashed the boat. Of course he ran it in a tank and didn't check the flush port and it's blocked.

Previous owner trailered it and used muffs in his driveway so I imagine the check valve is all corroded or blocked with salt.

Worst case scenario I'll be running it with earmuffs on while underwater but if anyone has advice as to whether the port can be unclogged while the boat's in the water I'd appreciate it. Anything I can spray down the hose to dissolve the caked up salt crud I imagine is there?


thanks,

Rob

The flushing port you mention is a useless accessory, the motor doesn't flush properly when cold because the thermostats are closed. The block thermostat is a big issue on these engines if not properly flushed, you are way better off using flushing ears and rinning the motor. BTW, this can be done with the motor titled

Worrying about flushing a 17 year old engine is as useless as a Honda flush port.

Docksidemarineservices said:

Worrying about flushing a 17 year old engine is as useless as a Honda flush port.

Click to expand...

The boat was trailered all it's life before it came to me, it was flushed with muffs. And even if it wasn't, why would my concern be useless? Your post was useless. Sounds like a business trying to sell an engine.

BTW, I found that flushing it with muffs at the dock works out well so thanks for the advice iang6766.

I would pull the thermostat and use the flush port for a good cleaning if running in salt water. It’s a good idea to check the thermostat every 2-3 years. I did this at home yesterday and I could leave the water running without starting the outboard. After putting the thermostat back in, I ran it running in a barrel for quite a while as well. You can never flush too much.

i keep my boat on a mooring in Mahone Bay so can’t do a after each use. I also use Hylomar Ultra as a gasket sealer, it never sets and allows the thermostat to be removed without ruining the gasket. Also works great on o ring gaskets.

Recoil Rob said:

The boat was trailered all it's life before it came to me, it was flushed with muffs. And even if it wasn't, why would my concern be useless? Your post was useless. Sounds like a business trying to sell an engine.

BTW, I found that flushing it with muffs at the dock works out well so thanks for the advice iang6766.

Click to expand...

It wasn't advice, it was a comparison. My post was as useless as your flush port. Lighten up Francis.

NSDON said:

I would pull the thermostat and use the flush port for a good cleaning if running in salt water. It’s a good idea to check the thermostat every 2-3 years. I did this at home yesterday and I could leave the water running without starting the outboard. After putting the thermostat back in, I ran it running in a barrel for quite a while as well. You can never flush too much.

i keep my boat on a mooring in Mahone Bay so can’t do a after each use. I also use Hylomar Ultra as a gasket sealer, it never sets and allows the thermostat to be removed without ruining the gasket. Also works great on o ring gaskets.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that advice, both thermostats have just been replaced but will add that to service procedure.

I don't know how similar the 150 is to the 225, but I had the same problem on one of my 225s, and if you take off the lower cowling where the flush hose goes in and trace it to where it connects to the engine, at least on the 225 there is an allen bolt right where the flush hose connects to the engine. If you pull the allen bolt, it's probably packed with sand/salt in there, and you can dig it out with a pick or drill bit. I've got some pictures in this thread: http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...s-What-is-this-Allen-Bolt&p=711493#post711493

If you can run it on muffs, then I'd probably do so, but at least for the 225, I've yet to find a water source near me with enough pressure to keep it from overheating after about 1-2 minutes on muffs, even with clamps and all kinds of contraptions to hold the muffs on tight. I use the flush ports after every use, then usually run mine in a trash can for 10-15 minutes or so once a month, but I imagine that's not possible on the water.

The 150 is different, it's pretty straightforward. It's one bolt that pulls of the cover, probably all packed up in there. Easy enough if it's on a trailer but I'd be hanging out over the transom and working by feel so it can wait.
I'm lucky enought to have good pressure with the muffs, I put them on and lower the engine and run until the telltale doesn't taste salty,10 minutes. Then I shut it down, raise the engine up and then turn off the freshwater. Works fine for me.