Stator Test

Does anyone on here know what the peak voltage (DVA) should be on a 2006 Mercury 60 hp 4 stroke efi should be. I can't find any info online for this motor. The stator has only has 2 wires (yellow). Thanks

What color is it...on a 2 stroke you just look up under the flywheel and you can see a red or black moulding.

I assume if it is a 9 (black) or 16 (red) Ampere stator, Merc makes no distinction other than possibly physical diameter to fit the required flywheel, not electrical parameter distinction since a 60 4 ST could be feeding the same battery as my 90-115 2 ST.

My manual states Ohms (actually fractions of an Ohm) for the resistance test for the static measurements of either and amperage (value dependent on which one you have) at a given RPM for load supply ability. Since at roughly 4k RPM the Stator is putting out probably 95% of it's power developing something like 14.5 regulated volts across the terminals of the fully charged, in new condition, with serviceable interconnect cabling.... battery, and you have a series pass (probably) transistor with say a couple of volts of drop across it depending on the state of charge of the battery, RPM and amount of current needed to satisfy the battery's needs, if at full 16 A of current, and there are 2 diode drops in the full wave bridge rectifier portion of the module for another 2V roughly drop, one would expect the PEAK value of the sine wave delivered by the two yellow wires would be on the order of 16-20 V.

So, for that voltage input to the rect-regul. module, your RMS reading Digital Multimeter would show you .707 X the value of the peak AC sinusoidal waveform coming from the Stator if you measured across the yellow wires. Remember RPM determines amplitude so to get full value you need to be up at least 4k RPM or so and be pumping into a fully charged, in new condition battery, with good electrical connections between the engine and battery.

Does that help?

Thanks Texasmark

The stator on my engine is the red two wire one.

The problem that I am having is that I am blowing the voltage regulator/rectifier, I've been through 3 in the last six months. The last one only worked for a couple of minutes. It also blows the 15 amp smartcraft data bus fuse sometimes.

I am trying to check out the charging system while I am waiting on a new regulator, I have a manual and have gone through all tests and the only problem has been the regulators. I am trying to figure out how to test the stator output. I have a DVA adapter for my meter. If I understand the procedure correctly I should set the meter to DC voltage and put the red lead on one of the yellow wires from the stator and the black lead to engine ground and get a reading, then do the same to the other yellow wire. Are you saying in your response that I should be reading 16 - 20 volts?

Another question, could a electric fuel pump drawing to many amps cause the problems that I am having? I have read online that some aftermarket pumps can draw to much power. My pump was replaced about a year ago.

THANKS for your help

Has it had the rectifier kit installed?....893640A02

Never heard of that fazbullet, What is it? I had read online that some of the older mercurys (2002-2005) had a recall on the regulators. Maybe that is what the kit is. I'll do some checking around and see.
Thanks

Alternator cant be reason for burned voltage regulator. If you battery has lost its capacity or it has a high resistance, alternator is working in full power longer than with a good battery. Wiring also need to be in good shape.

Voltage regulator is burning because of temperature ( high current drawn or bad cooling contact to engine or both)

OK, I figured out how to test the stator output and got a reading of 26.4 v at about 850 rpm which according to the tech I talked to that is good ( should be between 15 - 30v ). I have checked and cleaned every connection and installed a new voltage regulator / rectifier. It was charging good at about 1000 rpm but blew the 15 amp smartcraft data bus fuse again and quit charging, don't know if it fried the rectifier again. Does anyone here know how many amps the electric fuel pump should draw ?

Onboard fuses in 75 thru 125 3 and 4 cyl 2 strokers use a 20 amp fuse. An electric fuel pump I looked up runs on 6-8 inrush current when it starts operating and half that while it's running.