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Repacking shaft - alignment seems way off (2005 luhrs)

FstaRockr Burns

Regular Contributor
Got down to a customers boat today - mentioned the tranny started screeching (he was at idle) and turned straight back to the dock.. pulled out first string of old flax - it was black charred and clearly over heated. He also stated not seeing any drips (its not a dry style)..

Noticed the gap on top and bottom where shaft comes through is about 1/16 different, so much so that im not sure the flax will get in on top. I didnt have time to remove the shaft at the tranny to check the alignment - soaked rusty nuts overnight with pb blaster - the mounts on the stringers are bottomed out - the design used raised connections and puts everything about 1" above the stringers already - so there is no way to drop it much more.. like they set the height of the stringers and then when they added the raised side mounts ran out of adjustment -

Is there a possibility to try align the motor/tranny by dropping the side mounts (re-position) to buy som drop and have this work? or should it be hauled and complete shaft inspected?

85cd2d06-7271-49fd-b610-bd15469ff0e6.jpg

7976359a-8f9b-4385-9810-39f3ac1fc9bb.jpg
 
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If you don't have any history on the hull, I'd suggest a short haul and a complete inspection of the shaft and strut as well...and i'd check the shaft to log clearance - if its not right, the stuffing box will be marginal....

Without a few pictures of the mounting scheme its hard to say...usually, if the hull was rigged correctly, there's few calls for motor mount relocation...
 
Yes i know that - i was only assuming the alignment is off, i didnt have time to disengage the flange at the transmission. I was noting that *IF* the VERTICAL alignment is out and adjustment is required by lowering the trans/motor then there is no room for that- ie if I remove the flange and the "feeler" gauge alignment is correct, but the trans/motor sits higher then I might have to consider lowering the mounts to gain adjustment. This is all speculation - I will remove the flange later and see - Im just concerned as to why the shaft and flax housing would be so out of alignment.. I would presume the opening around the shaft should be equal all around-

fwiw I have checked and set alignment on these, but never seen a shaft at such an angle and getting some feedback..



You do not align an inboard by centering the shaft in the log..... You align an inboard with a feeler gauge at the coupler.
 
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Got down to a customers boat today - mentioned the tranny started screeching (he was at idle) and turned straight back to the dock.. pulled out first string of old flax - it was black charred and clearly over heated. He also stated not seeing any drips (its not a dry style)..

Noticed the gap on top and bottom where shaft comes through is about 1/16 different, so much so that im not sure the flax will get in on top. I didnt have time to remove the shaft at the tranny to check the alignment - soaked rusty nuts overnight with pb blaster - the mounts on the stringers are bottomed out - the design used raised connections and puts everything about 1" above the stringers already - so there is no way to drop it much more.. like they set the height of the stringers and then when they added the raised side mounts ran out of adjustment -

Is there a possibility to try align the motor/tranny by dropping the side mounts (re-position) to buy som drop and have this work? or should it be hauled and complete shaft inspected?

View attachment 26993

View attachment 26994

Per other posts, alignment is in reference to the coupler, not the shaft...That said, there appears to be a shaft issue. The first place I'd look is at the strut @ the prop... Possible replaced with a different than original.and or improperly installed/ missing shim???
 
What happens is that the hose used for the connection between the shaft tube and the stuffing box gets off center. There's enough "give" in the packing material that it seals well enough even tho it looks way off. I'm no judge but it looks like that should all be cleaned up and a new hose and clamps at the very least. Ditch those crappy hardware store hose clamps and use AWAB clamps. Gore-tex packing is the shizzle but it's kind of a different beast and takes some trickery to get it in there The hose shouldn't have wire reenforcement, just plain shields hose without wire.
 
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