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95 evinrude 200, spark timing way off

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89charger

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I bought a project boat a couple weeks ago that Ive been trying to get running. It is a 1989 charger 195t with a 1995 evinrude 200 horsepower outboard. So far Ive replaced the spark plugs, replaced the fuel pump with a non-VRO pump and mix the gas 50:1, and replaced the carburetors with a used set (originals were warped bad). I have a clymer manual for the engine and followed every step of the link and sync process but I am having a spark timing issue now. At idle in the water in neutral the spark timing can be adjusted all the way back and still sparks number 1 at about 12 degrees. My manual says specs are 0-4 idling in gear but either way I move the timer base linkage it will not get that low. I even pulled the linkage off the timerbase and moved it by hand both ways while running and its way off. It runs very rough and stalls constantly because of this, i havent even had the boat off the trailer yet.

To me it sounds like the timer base has failed on me but I followed every step in my clymer manual to check the ignition system and everything is within specs, the timer base is a pricey parts to take a guess on. Are these typical symptoms of a failed timerbase or should are there any more tests I can do to diagnose it better?
 
Well----You set the maximum timing advance.----At idle the timing looks after itself.------The idle timing is the point where throttle plates open.
 
I havent checked if it is stuck in quickstart mode, if it doesnt rain this evening I will do that. Whenever I would rev the engine up in nuetral the spark would advance but with it starting at around 12 degrees it would advance past the WOT spec of 19 degrees. I am going to try the joe reves method of WOT and see where my idle timing ends up.
 
Timing lead was correct. I disconnected the quick start function and got it to idle long enough to set the timing where it should be. I found .3 volts coming out of the starter relay while the motor was running so Im assuming the relay is bleeding voltage and keeping the quick start function active. Unfortunately there also seems to be a fuel issue, it would only run if bumping the primer button and died often. My clymer manual says the mixture screws should be 2.5 turns out but other Ive read about talk about running their mixture screws 5-8 turns out. I didnt bring a screw driver to the river with me so Ill have to go back and try adjusting thr mixture screws out. Hopefully that will be the end of the troubles
 
89charger said:
Timing lead was correct. I disconnected the quick start function and got it to idle long enough to set the timing where it should be. I found .3 volts coming out of the starter relay while the motor was running so Im assuming the relay is bleeding voltage and keeping the quick start function active. Unfortunately there also seems to be a fuel issue, it would only run if bumping the primer button and died often. My clymer manual says the mixture screws should be 2.5 turns out but other Ive read about talk about running their mixture screws 5-8 turns out. I didnt bring a screw driver to the river with me so Ill have to go back and try adjusting thr mixture screws out. Hopefully that will be the end of the troubles
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2.5 full turns out is often represented as 5 turns out in forum talk.

A full turn is 360 degrees of rotation. A half turn of 180 degrees puts the screwdriver slot back in the same line. So some people call that one turn, when it is really only half a turn.

You need to set WOT timing first because that will affect your idle timing. The linkage adjustment for WOT directly affects the linkage for idle timing. If your idle is running at 12 degrees, then most likely your WOT timing is way too far advanced.
 
1) you cant set carbs on hose
2) initial setting is 5 full turns out
3) carbs are adjust in gear, in water off trailer.
 
I set WOT by the joe reeves method and that got my idle timing within spec of 0-4 degrees ATDC, i will verify running wide open timing as soon as I get the fueling issue sorted and trust the motor to get me back to the ramp. Currently I am using a usually empty boat ramp on a small river nearby to do all my testing in the water but I am leaving the boat strapped to the trailer for the time being. Ive ordered a new starter relay which should solve my quick start issue but I can use a remote starter button and ground the temperature sensor wiring to bypass that till it arrives.

I did not unplug the rectifier, would that cause spark issues as well? Float level were checked and new gaskets put in the carburetor set I installed. After running the motor I pulled each carburetor drain plug and they all around the same amount of gas in them. Next I get a chance to head to the river I am going to try turning the mixture screws out to 5 turns and adjust from there.

Thank you for all the suggestions and help, Ive been at my wits end on this motor.
 
I got the new starter relay on and turned the mixture screws out to 5 turns and it started up and idled beautifully! I settled on 5 1/2 turns out on the mixture screws. The boat came off the trailer for the 1st time while ive owned it and it ran great. Thank you guys for the help, Im not sure if id have figured this out without your advice. Now just one more question.... What should the water pressure gauge read at idle and cruising? Mine was running 1-2 psi at idle in gear and 10-15 psi at speed.
 
New water pump kit is ordered and should be here saturday. I have a reason to go to the lake sundays anyways, if I get this boat together by then Ill take it and give it a shake down run down the lake.
 
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