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2006 75hp Etec - Cranks but wont start

Brendanpd2

New member
Hey gang,

Looking for guidance from the Etec crew. I recently repowered my aquasport 170 with a used 2006 75hp Etec. Super clean motor but don't have much history on her. Got her all rigged up and she turns over great but wont fire. LED #4 is the only one illuminated with key in the on position. My understanding is that 1, 3 & 4 should all be illuminated? My plan was to get over to a shop for full diagnostics but everyone is understandably booked out. Wish I could get my hands on the software myself! Just hoping someone can guide me on the most common things to look for. Spring prep is done: gearcase oil, new plugs, new fuel filter, water separator, etc...

Cheers,

- Brendan D.
 
The EMM has to wake up and power all sensors and ignition to start. So, step #1 is ensure your battery is in top shape and delivering over 10.5 volts when cranking. If the voltage is too low you won't get spark but the starter will spin the engine. I've had this happen in a FICHT based engine where I bought a new battery and tried to fire the engine with no luck. Even though new, the battery was undercharged and dropped to about 9 volts when cranking. I gave the battery a full, deep charge overnight and vroom, she fired right up the next day.

After charging the battery you can also check spark as Boobie stated. If you're still not getting spark on a strong battery follow the LED diagnostics below (I found this LED diagnostic information elsewhere).

Oh, and a real simple thing is to make sure you're Engine cutoff switch lanyard is in place.

E-TEC LED Diagnostic System

· The EMM features an LED diagnostic system that provides on the spot help with no other equipment, even if there is trouble during rope starting. The EMM has four LEDs, and each LED has three functions, depending on the state of the outboard: key on engine off, starting or running.

· The LEDs can help you easily diagnose the cause of many no-start conditions without the use of a battery, power supply, or the Evinrude Diagnostic Software. In some situations, the LEDs can provide information even when the diagnostic software will not communicate or indicate any problems.


Key On Engine Off

· At key on engine off, inline engines should have two LEDs lit; V models should have three.

· LED 1 will NOT light on inline models, as they do not have a Start Assist Circuit, or SAC. They require flywheel rotation to provide the necessary power for the systems. This is why the fuel pump does not run when the key is turned on. LED 1 should light on V models when the key is turned on.

· LED 2 will NOT light on any models as it indicates the EMM is receiving a signal from the Crankshaft Position Sensor. If there is no flywheel rotation, there is no signal.

· LED 3 should light. This indicates the circuits to the 5 volt sensors are good, and the starter solenoid circuit is closed. If LED 3 does not light, it could indicate a problem in the 5 volt system, sensors, or an open starter solenoid circuit. If LED 3 flashes, it indicates Code 57 has been set. This indicates high RPM at a low throttle position. The engine will not restart until this code has been cleared. The problem is most likely caused by uncontrolled fuel entering the engine. Do not attempt to start the outboard until the problem has been found and repaired.

· LED 4 should light. This indicates the Stop circuit is NOT grounded. If LED 4 doesn’t light, it indicates a problem in the stop circuit. The EMM may not be able to communicate with Evinrude Diagnostics. If LED 4 flashes, it indicates the engine is in shutdown mode because of severe overheat or no oil.

· If none of the LEDs light, it indicates there is no switched 12 volt supply to the EMM. On models without electric start, the LEDs will not light unless you supply 12 volts to the engine; we will show you how to do this soon.


Starting

· If everything is working properly, the four LEDs will light when the engine is cranking.

· LED 1 lights to indicate the 55 volt charging system is functioning correctly and producing at least 30 volts. If LED 1 does not light on V models, check for Code 77, SAC circuit fault.

· LED 2 lights when the EMM has determined the flywheel and crankshaft position, based on input from the crankshaft position sensor. If LED 2 does not light when starting, it indicates the CPS or its wiring has failed, or it cannot get a reading because the engine is cranking too slowly.

· LED 3 lights when all sensors are providing information to the EMM. Again, if LED 3 flashes, check for Code 57.


· LED 4 confirms the stop circuit is not activated. If LED 4 does not light when attempting to start the engine, it indicates the lanyard is not installed, or the circuit is grounded. Again, if LED 4 flashes, it indicates the engine is in shutdown mode because of severe overheat or no oil.


Running

· Once the engine starts, all four LEDs should go out in sequence.

· If LED 1 lights, it indicates a problem with the 55 volt charging system.

· If LED 2 lights, it indicates a problem with an injector or the ignition system.

· If LED 3 lights, it indicates a problem with a sensor.

· If LED 4 lights, it indicates the oil system has run out of oil or failed, or the engine has overheated.

· If all four LEDs flash, it indicates the engine is in Winterization mode.
 
Thank you for this info! I did go through the EMM LED guidance in the manual and it looks like LED 1, 3 & 4 should be illuminated for my E-tec...and only LED #4 is...could the battery charge issue relate to this? As far as the battery goes....I have 2 pretty new batteries that I gave full overnight charges before attempting to start. BUT, they appear to be losing juice after multiple failed start attempts and I need to recharge again. This makes me think that while they are getting a good charge....they are dropping voltage drastically when cranking. Annoying because they are pretty new like I said, but I also screwed up this past winter and didn't charge them up before storage. Perhaps I will try a new battery with a nice full charge first. I just figured even if I have plenty of juice...that fact that I am missing 2 LED's on the EMM would immediately mean I have another issue going on.
 
Thank you for this info! I did go through the EMM LED guidance in the manual and it looks like LED 1, 3 & 4 should be illuminated for my E-tec...and only LED #4 is...could the battery charge issue relate to this? As far as the battery goes....I have 2 pretty new batteries that I gave full overnight charges before attempting to start. BUT, they appear to be losing juice after multiple failed start attempts and I need to recharge again. This makes me think that while they are getting a good charge....they are dropping voltage drastically when cranking. Annoying because they are pretty new like I said, but I also screwed up this past winter and didn't charge them up before storage. Perhaps I will try a new battery with a nice full charge first. I just figured even if I have plenty of juice...that fact that I am missing 2 LED's on the EMM would immediately mean I have another issue going on.
First easy thing is to use a multimeter while cranking and observe the voltage before and while turning the key. You should 12.6volt at rest and a minimum 10.5 when cranking. Be sure to check your water levels in the batteries. If the tops of the plates are out of the water that can have a negative affect too. Also check all connections at the battery and the engine. corrosion at any of these points can reduce voltage as well.

"pretty new" can mean a lot of things. I often lose track and think I just got that battery a couple years ago then realize it's 4 or 5 years old. Usually I don't like to trust a battery beyond 5 years of age. I know there are stories of them lasting longer but I like to be on the cautious side.

KJ
 
I ended up purchasing the Evdiag software since not a single mechanic can fit me in for at least a couple months...and I'd like to learn more about newer motors anyhow. I've always done my own mechanical work on the pre 96 motors I've owned with great success...and I know newer motors are all EMM dependent. I was reading fault code 91 (Fuel pump circuit open). Did a little digging and found a loose connection...repaired quickly and the fault code was gone. With very high hopes I turned her over again but sadly...no start. No other fault codes in the system. Not sure where to go from here. I will mention that my plugs are not indexed correctly because at both 15 & 30 ft./lbs. I cannot get them in the proper range. Would attaching some screenshots of the diagnostics help here? Thanks all!
 
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