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318 Re-Manufactured Advice

Tommyc

New member
I just received a long block 318 from Atlantic Marine for my Albin Getaway. I purchased the boat knowing that their was a bad knock in the engine and would probably need to be replaced even though it only had 40 hours on it; the engine had already been pulled from the boat. I am concerned that maybe there was a factor other than a bad rebuild that could have damaged the engine. I have purchased /done the following even though the previous owner stated the everything was in good working order last season. The engine is fresh water cooled.

  • New exhaust manifolds and risers
  • New fuel pump
  • New Carburetor
  • New raw water pump
  • New Water circulation pump
  • New fuel pump
  • Rebuilt the starter and alternator
  • New cap, rotor, coil, soleniod, plugs and wires ( I did notice that the coil resister is the 2 plug style witch I thought was for a regular points style rotor, I have an electronic ignition. is this not good?
  • Rebuilt the velvet drive transmission
  • Had a prop shop run the numbers on the boat to make sure it wasn't over propped

Is there anything else I should look at?
One more question (probably lying), should I use stainless steel bolts on any of the hang on parts, intake manifold, valve covers and oil pan?

I truly appreciate the knowledge on this site, and any advise you may have for me. Hopefully someday I have enough experience on the 318 to pass along to someone in my situation!

Thank you,
 
Can't see how any of the parts listed will address an engine knock. Perform a compression test. Maybe first see if a push rod is bent. Do 318s allow for valve adjustment? If so, verify clearances are correct. After that, pull her and put her up on a stand. Check main bearings, rod bearings and rods. Verify that crank shaft is not bent. Good luck.
 
Can't see how any of the parts listed will address an engine knock. Perform a compression test. Maybe first see if a push rod is bent. Do 318s allow for valve adjustment? If so, verify clearances are correct. After that, pull her and put her up on a stand. Check main bearings, rod bearings and rods. Verify that crank shaft is not bent. Good luck.

I am not going to try and fix the old engine. I bought a remanufactured long block. I don't want to damage the new engine if it was something other than a bad rebuild on the old engine.
Thank you for your reply!
 
I'd add 1) Rebuild Distributor and verify advance curve function, 2) get prop checked by a prop scan class of facility (someone using 21st century technology)...and 3) make sure controls and cables are lubricated...
 
I would have stripped the old engine first to find the cause of the knock before you got the new one.
Now you have a two engines and still don't what was causing the knock.
The old one may be perfectly OK.
 
As long as you're doing a repower, I would say that you should do a thorough check of the hull particularly the engine beds, stringers and any place that you won't be able to access when the new lump is on place. Also your seacocks and all the plumbing for both water and fuel. At this point, new Shields hose for these systems is money well spent esp if the old fuel hoses are not rated for alcohol laced fuels. Buy all new hose clamps and double up all the water system ones. Recommend AWAB clamps. Disassemble clean and grease the motor mounts. Repack shaft seal with Gore Tex packing. Tidy up wiring runs and replace suspect cables with new marine grade.
Once engine is assembled paint it again. Usually these things get a quick dash of paint and in a year it's rusting. I like POR-15 engine enamel.
 
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