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Wiring Harness replacement universal 98048

...on to the wiring harness. I just purchased the universal replacement harness 98048, I believe mine is/was [FONT=Helvetica, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]97477 [/FONT]

[FONT=Helvetica, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]My questions are:[/FONT]
[FONT=Helvetica, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]Does anyone have a picture of one installed so I can see how it lays out on the block? With the plastic flexible piping instead of wrapped tape it isn't as easy to plan a location for the wires to run cleanly. [/FONT]
Looks like some extra leads for newer engines or for electronic fuel pump etc.. on this, w[FONT=Helvetica, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif]hat's the best way to terminate the extra harness connections?

thanks for any advice



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I've never seen the 'universal' harness so can't give you anything first handed...

That same there isn't much to it...find the 'end' of the harness...this you give you the wires at the tstat housing...most route it down the intake, from tstat to flywheel...the 'side' to use will be driven by the other wires as you work back to the flywheel end...

I would suggest starting with you original harness and the wiring diagram...find the wires you need and make sure the colors and connector pins are correct...every once in a blue moon, you can find something that 'changed' but those are rare...

Go down the same route as the original harness and see how things fit...if a wire is 'too short, then you make have to route it on the other side of the intake...for the unused individual wires/terminals, you can usually just tape them back to the harness...some find it easier to use tie wraps and then use tape once things are finalized...some prefer to cut off the terminal ends...if they just use split loom, you could just remove the unnecessary wires...

finally, if it is truly a universal harness, the warning system may be integrated into it as well.
 
Thanks Mark, Yeah I had actually started exactly as you describe, and it seems to be working out better than I expected. Color coded wires are the best idea as long as they are kept up with. Too often someone takes a short cut because they had a piece of wire that's correct gauge (or not) but it's the wrong color. I know I've been guilty of that over the years, but I now try and make every effort to stick with what's right.

And you are correct, some of the leads appear to be for alarms and/or accessories like fuel pumps or electric choke, those I will leave but cut those connectors, cap and tape back to the harness. Seems like that's standard and best practice.

My final hurdle now is how to run to the 50 amp breaker and slave solenoid then to the starter solenoid. I'll try to figure out how to post a picture of what was there originally and the new harness leads. The "original" wiring looked a bit odd to me, almost looked like it was half bypassing the circuit breaker entirely. If anyone has a schematic that is clear on where the positive and grounds connect, I would be very appreciative!!

I can find the same schematics that everyone else finds on a web search, just hoping someone might have a home made "more visual" approach. I do better with pictures than schematic drawings :)
 
Okay, I tried to do a schematic drawing of what I had existing. There are a couple of missing connection in this drawing in particular the second wire for the neutral safety with. Anyone have a clue on what color that one is and where it comes from? And there is a yellow with red stripe that runs along with the Red & Orange in the loom, not sure where that goes.

Overall, is this close? As I said, it's what was there and while it did run, I just don't know if it's correct.

wiring-ideas-1.jpg
 
the START circuit is the YEL/RED wire...assuming the harness to the main connector is at the 'top' of your drawing, the 'free' YEL/RED wire should go to the safety switch on the gear....The way the current flows, when starting, is thru the battery cable at the starter, then thru the breaker, to the KEY SWITCH...when the key goes to START, the current flows out the S terminal, thru the YEL/RED wire, to the safety switch (if the switch is closed <in N> then out to the slave solenoid (relay in your diagram). That closes the solenoid and then current from the battery flows thru the slave solenoid to engage the starter solenoid...
 
I believe that would be correct....you might need to add a ground wire, from the block to the mounting frame on the slave solenoid...depending upon where it is mounted...
 
One other thing...and I can't say I remember...if you have the original point set in the distributor with the ballast resistor, ou will probably want the jumper from the little R terminal on the starter's solenoid up to the point's side of the ballast resistor...
 
Thanks Mark! I'll research and look back at my pics to see how that ground wire was set up or if there was one.
Also, I do not see a ballast resistor. Perhaps the coil has built in resistance, I can't really tell by just looking at it because it was painted. Maybe I'll look closer for some ID numbers etc... It is a standard point set distributor but I do plan to replace it with an HEI unit.

Thanks again, this is great!
 
Been a while since I have touched a small block...if the slave solenoid mounts to the bracket with the circuit breaker, the bracket should supply the return path...

The ballast should have been at the end of the PUR wire around the coil...on the factory distributor...I think I have seen the ballast resistors located closer to the breaker than to the coil....
 
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