I’m getting really close to splashing my boat with my new/rebuilt 8.1’s. Out of the blue, my port engine will not start. Ignition switch forward, gauges light up but not even a click. I’ve gone through these top/bottom and started each one at least 15 times now. Starting to backtrack what I’ve done so far. My immediate question is regarding the starter solenoid. I jumped the battery/starter wire to the solenoid wire and it cranked over. Could the solenoid still be bad or does that rule out a bad solenoid?
At the helm, I jumped the IGN switch over to the other engine and it started so I know the switch is good. Then, with my powerprobe, I checked pin #5 (IGN) on the 10 pin connector which plugs into the engine harness. I get switched 12v+ when the IGN is moved to the start position (and same at the solenoid). I checked the fuses, good and disconnected the shifter cable in case it was something related to the neutral safety switch. Voltage is near 13v all around.
Since I don’t even get a click, it seems like it could be the solenoid but I’m not sure if my jumper test takes that off the table.
As an aside, I had my ECM on this same engine out last week because it has no output at terminal (27?) which is for the MIL/CEL. It's definitely the ECU, I swapped in my spare and the light turned off (which is the issue, constant light but no codes). I have a spare ECU, the other engine had no tach output which was fixed with a new one. I know I did a quick test start afterwards and would think if there was anything ECU/harness related, it would at least turn over (maybe not start, etc.). Is that a safe assumption? I swapped the spare in and tried to start, same thing.
thanks
Bob
At the helm, I jumped the IGN switch over to the other engine and it started so I know the switch is good. Then, with my powerprobe, I checked pin #5 (IGN) on the 10 pin connector which plugs into the engine harness. I get switched 12v+ when the IGN is moved to the start position (and same at the solenoid). I checked the fuses, good and disconnected the shifter cable in case it was something related to the neutral safety switch. Voltage is near 13v all around.
Since I don’t even get a click, it seems like it could be the solenoid but I’m not sure if my jumper test takes that off the table.
As an aside, I had my ECM on this same engine out last week because it has no output at terminal (27?) which is for the MIL/CEL. It's definitely the ECU, I swapped in my spare and the light turned off (which is the issue, constant light but no codes). I have a spare ECU, the other engine had no tach output which was fixed with a new one. I know I did a quick test start afterwards and would think if there was anything ECU/harness related, it would at least turn over (maybe not start, etc.). Is that a safe assumption? I swapped the spare in and tried to start, same thing.
thanks
Bob
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