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BF225 valve adjustment + spark plug tube seal (black streak on exhaust port)

Segomil82

New member
Hi,
at the end of last season, i have notice black streak on exhaust port of the engine on my BF225 2003 with only 350h on it.
During my spark plug replacement i have also witness a bit of oil in the spark plug/coils tubes.

reading on this forum, i now think that the 2 issues are related. So before starting the season and putting the boat in the water, i wanted to do the following
1. Have the valve adjusted by a local honda mechanic
2. Since you need to remove the valve cover, i want to have the 6 spark plug tube seal
https://www.boats.net/product/honda/12342-RYE-004?ref=a224d519dd70cd2b9d5421fd93145b036dfef422
3. And while i am there, i might as well change the head cover head cover gasket

my problem is that good honda mechanics are hard to find here in Montreal,Quebec,Canada.
Last time i had problem with my VST float, i needed to do the troubleshooting myself and do the work myself also cause local mechanic only like to work on mercury. So with the help of you, i was able to fix the issue.

my questions are
a. how long does it take to have a good mechanic adjust the valves clearance in hours ?
b. should i do that myself. I guess there is a first to anything. I already removed the intake manifold and all around to get to the VST several time so i know how to get there and i have watched a couple of tutorial on youtube. Its not that complicated but i would for sure have a pro mechanic do it.
Just not sure if ill find one at the beggining of the season like that.
 
You can do all of that yourself. It's not difficult - just take is slow and easy and take lots of pictures as you go, especially as you pull off any gaskets.

Here is a link to the Helm Shop manual. The procedure is in Chapter 3.

http://planbmarine.com/wp-content/u...ice-workshop-and-repair-BF175A-BF200A-BF2.pdf

This is in PDF format, so you can save it to your computer. It's about 22 M-Bytes. If you open to the Chapter index page and scroll down the left side, the bottom box is a very good search function which allows you to find all occurrences of any key word. That is super handy.
 
Who can you trust more than you to get it right?

Chawk_man has you covered but I will throw in an old mechanic's saying about adjusting valves:
If you're going to get it wrong, make your mistake to the loose side instead of too tight.

Meaning?
If the valve's "lash" (clearances) are a bit loose, it won't run perfect but it won't hurt the engine.

If the valves are too tight, it will, at a minimum, probably burn the valves.

Good luck.
 
I totally agree with jgmo's advice. I learned that the hard way on an old Chevy 235 many, many years ago.

A while ago, IAN posted this in regard to adjusting valves on the BF 225:

Single most common cause for your idle surge is valve clearance.
Disregard the manual and set the inlets at .010" and exhaust .012".
Equals .25 mm and .305 mm respectively)

Helm Shop manual Spec are:
Intake = 0.20 to 0.24 mm and exhaust = 0.28 to 0.32 mm
 
Black streak from exhaust port is usually caused by a cold running engine as a result of a failed thermostat. would pay to check them too. If your idle quality is good, leave your valve adjustment alone.
 
Ian, do you know what the running temp for a 200 should be? I just replaced my T stats and the engine seems to be running hotter than before, as in around 200 degrees when cruising at around 4000 rpm. That seems a bit warm to me.
 
Ian - can you expand on that? I measure temp at the manifolds and it is a stable 160 deg. F. I understand that the internal block runs hotter as measured by the ECT sensor in the middle of the V. What is the spec for that sensor? 200 deg. F?
 
Hi Bill, the manifold sensors typically run around 60deg C and the block sensor between 90 and 100deg C. The alarm and gaurdian is triggered at 110 deg C.I have found a lot of saltwater engines creep up over the years as scale builds up inside the water jackets.The reading shown on NMEA digital gauges is the block temp.
 
Ian - Thanks for that. Here is the translation for the folks who can't convert C to F in their head (like me.)

The manifold sensors typically run around 60 deg. C (140 deg. F) and the block sensor between 90 and 100 deg. C (194 to 212 def F.)
The alarm and guardian is triggered at 110 deg. C. (230 F)
 
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