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Broken bell housing & gimbal ring, should I buy or run from it?

heading back home from Alabama, darn near stole this from a kid





Now that you have this outdrive you will need to do a few things in preparation for use.

1. Drain gear oil.
2. Pressure check drive to 15 psi max, and it should stay at that pressure for 2 minutes with no more than 1-2 psi loss.
3. Split cases and replace water pump impeller assembly to start from new. Pay close attention to "partition dam plate" and make sure it is in perfect shape and follow directions on (I believe you should add a bead of RTV along the top of partition dam plate just before reassembly of the two halves) To assure exhaust gasses from entering.
4. reassemble two halves
5. I could not see but if U-joint assembly has grease fittings, Grease the piss out of them.

If pressure check fails you will need to replace bad seals.

One other thing I would do is to remove top cap and take a good look at gears and cap bearing assembly and make sure NO blueing or any other obvious issues with bearing.
 
Now that you have this outdrive you will need to do a few things in preparation for use.

1. Drain gear oil.
2. Pressure check drive to 15 psi max, and it should stay at that pressure for 2 minutes with no more than 1-2 psi loss.
3. Split cases and replace water pump impeller assembly to start from new. Pay close attention to "partition dam plate" and make sure it is in perfect shape and follow directions on (I believe you should add a bead of RTV along the top of partition dam plate just before reassembly of the two halves) To assure exhaust gasses from entering.
4. reassemble two halves
5. I could not see but if U-joint assembly has grease fittings, Grease the piss out of them.

If pressure check fails you will need to replace bad seals.

One other thing I would do is to remove top cap and take a good look at gears and cap bearing assembly and make sure NO blueing or any other obvious issues with bearing.

happy0144.gif
Thanks for the list. Will get started on this first.
 

Indeed. He must've been 17-18yo. A neighbor had an old boat from which he wanted the engine. Asked the kid to remove the outdrive & gimbal housing so the engine could be removed. Nieghbor told the kid to do what he wanted with the removed parts, so he posts it on Facebook for $200. Normal wear, no cracks, looks great. Everything else I've been looking at was $1,200 and up.
 
Update: So I have the engine out of the boat...

  1. I've removed the 8 nuts from the transom plate but the gimbal housing won't budge from the transom. I've tried prying it loose, but not too hard. Seems like there's an adhesive or cement holding it to the fiberglass. Is this normal? Any ideas on removing it without damaging the boat?
  2. gonna need a new exhaust header & elbow, right? (see pic)

 
There shouldn't be any adhesive, but that doesn't mean that someone didn't take it off and then silicone it back on. If you are replacing the whole drive then don't be too ginger with it. Beat on the thru bolts. Worst thing that can happen is that you have to do some touch up to the transom. That's why they make fairing compound. I like the Jamestown Distributors brand...refinish with Interlux Perfection.

Yup, that needs replacement
 
There shouldn't be any adhesive, but that doesn't mean that someone didn't take it off and then silicone it back on. If you are replacing the whole drive then don't be too ginger with it. Beat on the thru bolts. Worst thing that can happen is that you have to do some touch up to the transom. That's why they make fairing compound. I like the Jamestown Distributors brand...refinish with Interlux Perfection.

I was hoping to reuse the gimbal housing. I don't mind a little cosmetic damage that would be hidden.


Yup, that needs replacement

Already ordered one, just looking for reassurance that there isn't a way this is salvageable. Certainly doesn't look like it.
 
put the nuts on the studs, then beat the heck out of it. The studs can be replaced even if you bungle them all up.
 
I'ver ordered & received a new 860235A04 to replace the rusted 806867C header in the below pic. Got another exhaust elbow also. The shift cables mount on the starboard side of my engine and the 860235A04 has holes to mount the shift cables on the port side. I realize I need go out & inspect it more closely to see if those extra holes need to be plugged. Do they?

Apparently I should have ordered the 860235A03 instead. Any reason I can't use the 860235A04?


gonna need a new exhaust header & elbow, right? (see pic)

 
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Compression test yesterday. Engine out of the boat, on the ground. Cold, no oil added. All 4 cylinders were 155-165 psi. Very pleased :)
 
Compression test yesterday. Engine out of the boat, on the ground. Cold, no oil added. All 4 cylinders were 155-165 psi. Very pleased :)
Thats a good sign i would run it on the ground before it goes back in check for leaks knocks etc measure the oil pressure as well.
 
Thats a good sign i would run it on the ground before it goes back in check for leaks knocks etc measure the oil pressure as well.

That's the current plan. Looks like there's a minor oil leak from the valve cover gasket, need to take care of it.
 
Are these headers interchangeable?

Can I use the 860235A04 instead of the860235A03?





I'ver ordered & received a new 860235A04 to replace the rusted 806867C header in the below pic. Got another exhaust elbow also. The shift cables mount on the starboard side of my engine and the 860235A04 has holes to mount the shift cables on the port side. I realize I need go out & inspect it more closely to see if those extra holes need to be plugged. Do they?

Apparently I should have ordered the 860235A03 instead. Any reason I can't use the 860235A04?
 
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