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Broken bell housing & gimbal ring, should I buy or run from it?

lsufan71

lsufan71

Contributing Member
I have the opportunity to buy a 1999 Regal 17' ski boat in otherwise excellent condition for really cheap. The problems are in the below pics. The bottom of the gimbal ring has pieces broken off and a piece of the bell housing is broken off at the left side of the gimbal ring (at the hing pin). I'm confident in my mechanical abilities. Although I've never worked on an outdrive, I'm sure I wouldn't have a problem getting it done. The knuckleheads who got to it first just sliced through the bellows, water hose, and shift cable. Everything other than the shift cable probably needed replacing anyway. I'm sure I can get my hands on the rest of the outdrive that's not seen in the pics.

My questions for you guys: ever seen damage like this before? Is it worth the trouble? Am I looking at more than $2,000 of parts to get it in running condition?

 
It's ruined. Shame, it looks like it was in pretty good nick before the drive was stolen.
 
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Whats the rest of the boat look like. If decent and reasonably well cared for and you are handy could be a good deal. Look on ebay there are a couple guys regularly parting out freshwater boats for the missing parts
 
Dieter said:
Whats the rest of the boat look like. If decent and reasonably well cared for and you are handy could be a good deal.
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The rest of the boat looks to be in excellent condition. I think I could have a good deal on my hands. I've checked out some prices on used parts & there's lots of info hear and other places. Shouldn't be too difficult.
 
o2batsea said:
It's ruined. Shame, it looks like it was in pretty good nick before the drive was stolen.
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Oh, it wasn't stolen. The current owner took it to a car mechanic who occasionally toys with boats. I don't trust him at all. He quoted me $11,000 to get it to running condition, and he said that with a straight face.
 
1. Mercruiser I/O's typically are NOT ski boats. Ski boats have the engine in the middle of hull and a shaft running through hull bottom.

2. What is the price as is?

3. What engine is in it? 4 V6 ?

4. Do you have any Mercruiser service manuals?


to properly replace gimbal ring its best to pull engine and do it the right way especially if you have no real experience doing such a job other ways.

It may be beneficial to look for a complete outer transom assembly. For Alpha Gen 2 they are all the same. It may be less expensive also.

You need some special tools

What are you prepared to spend on parts and tools?

Also you should by only OEM Mercruiser parts for a job like this!!!!
 
kghost said:
2. What is the price as is?
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Asking $3,000. Online I think I've found two boats of the same make/model in supposedly good condition sell for $7,000-$8,000.


kghost said:
3. What engine is in it? 4 V6 ?
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3.0, 4 cyl


kghost said:
4. Do you have any Mercruiser service manuals?
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I would obtain one if I bought the boat.


kghost said:
to properly replace gimbal ring its best to pull engine and do it the right way especially if you have no real experience doing such a job other ways.

It may be beneficial to look for a complete outer transom assembly. For Alpha Gen 2 they are all the same. It may be less expensive also.
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As of yet, I've only checked out quite a few YouTube videos on the matter (and no service manuals), but it seems the job is possible without removing the engine, gimbal housing, or transom plate. RE: https://youtu.be/q-R-cMkWYok

But removing the engine does not seem to be especially difficult. If an entire outer transom assembly were available at a reasonable price then I'm sure that'd be the way to go.


kghost said:
Also you should by only OEM Mercruiser parts for a job like this!!!!
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I agree.
 
Ayuh,..... 22 years old, 'n havin' hit something solid enough to do that much damage, it's worth, Maybe 1/2 the askin' price,.....

If you buy it, pull the motor, 'n replace the entire transom assembly with a freshwater used piece,....
Much cheaper, 'n easier to do,.... pullin' the motor is a 1/2 hour job in a well outfitted shop,.....
'n you'll be able to closely examine the transom, which has seen some severe trauma, as the busted up drive tells ya,.....
I'd expect to find some cracking, or very possibly some rot,....
 
TBH, I would move on. But that's me. I have dragged home plenty of boats in way worse shape than this and fixed them up. Some I sold, some I used, some I never finished and they got gifted, donated, or landfilled. Whatever you choose, this probably won't be your last project so think of it as a learning experience. The aspects of parts hunting, the wrenching and rigging, and the first sea trial are all enjoyable moments on the timeline. Maybe you will want to own this forever. Maybe you'll get tired of it and drop the project. Until you give it a try you'll never know.
I think 3000 for this is full retail in running, driving condition. With the drive missing, it's maybe a 5-700 dollar parts boat. With trailer? Add another 750. I wouldn't go more. Let some other person pay that much if the seller won't back off. There are lots of boats out there if you want a project. Think with brain, not testicles.
For parts, check out our hosts first. In most cases they have the best prices. You can look for obsolete parts on eBay as there are sellers there moving old inventory. Sierra Marine is the de facto aftermarket parts supplier, and they may or may not be as good as Quicksilver

PS. That boat with a 4 cylinder is no ski boat. It will struggle to pull anybody up out of the water, if that's what you're hoping to do with it. You need a V8, no question.
 
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The others are right if it is worth $7-8 k in running condition you dont want to pay more than $1000-1500.

What work did the auto/part time marine mechanic quote for $11k? He may have quoted a new drive and new transom assy which would be about $6-7 k in parts. Just make sure you are not missing any additonal items that need fixing.

A 17 ft 3.0 powered boat is baseline/entry level, which is why they didnt bother to fix it. I had a 17 ft searay /3.0 for many years it can work fine for your use I just had to pitch down for skiing, it just got small in a hurry when my kids got older.
 
bondo said:
Ayuh,..... 22 years old, 'n havin' hit something solid enough to do that much damage, it's worth, Maybe 1/2 the askin' price,.....

If you buy it, pull the motor, 'n replace the entire transom assembly with a freshwater used piece,....
Much cheaper, 'n easier to do,.... pullin' the motor is a 1/2 hour job in a well outfitted shop,.....
'n you'll be able to closely examine the transom, which has seen some severe trauma, as the busted up drive tells ya,.....
I'd expect to find some cracking, or very possibly some rot,....
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I offered the guy $1,500 if a much closer inspection inside the hull reveals no cracks. Thanks.
 
o2batsea said:
PS. That boat with a 4 cylinder is no ski boat. It will struggle to pull anybody up out of the water, if that's what you're hoping to do with it. You need a V8, no question.
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Yes, around here the term 'runabout' is rarely used. We'll call a small pleasure craft a ski boat without any thought to intended use. My big rear isn't getting up on any skis anytime soon. And a jon boat is actually a 'bateau', a crappie is a 'sac-a-lait', and a canned carbonated beverage of any brand or flavor is a 'coke' :)
 
Dieter said:
The others are right if it is worth $7-8 k in running condition you dont want to pay more than $1000-1500.

What work did the auto/part time marine mechanic quote for $11k? He may have quoted a new drive and new transom assy which would be about $6-7 k in parts. Just make sure you are not missing any additonal items that need fixing.

A 17 ft 3.0 powered boat is baseline/entry level, which is why they didnt bother to fix it. I had a 17 ft searay /3.0 for many years it can work fine for your use I just had to pitch down for skiing, it just got small in a hurry when my kids got older.
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I was quoted $11,000 for parts & labor. He said $7,000 for parts only. The cooling water inlet was cut and I was in a hurry, didn't have time to get it started.

I offered the guy $1,500 'as is', and $2,000 IF the motor starts & runs FLAWLESSLY. To my surprise he was accepting of the terms. The earliest we can do this is Monday 03/22 due to our scheduling conflicts.

I went up to $2,000 because the upholstery & interior is spectacular for a boat this old. Every bit of the upholstery & carpet is completely intact with no rips, holes, stains. Very good looking boat. Everything else in my lower price range that runs well looks like trash, and I don't mind doing a little work.
 
For that price, maybe find a Mobile Mercruiser mechanic who knows hoe to do such a job. Hire him and buy the parts.

That is NOT $11000 dollar job

Look here and this was the first item in my search

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2032866744...K3oP6SMmNymc6TL7P1mFMYzfTkZbXK9IaArpcEALw_wcB.

Pulling a 4 cyl engine will take an hour.
Replacing the transom assembly 2-4 hrs. Remove and reinstall

Installing engine an hour + due to alignment and cable set up.

So if done correctly and somewhat efficiently this job will take approximately 8 hours of your time.

Then add a couple more for miscellaneous items.

Cost should be around $1000 in parts +/- including used outer transom assembly and labor for one full day (8 hrs x 100/hr = $800)

Your talking $1500 +/- dollars for that job $2000 at most for entire job with parts and labor

My opinion............and I have done such jobs before
 
Of course they were happy with that! You can thank us for saving you at least 1500 bucks. Time will tell if you got a good deal or a pig in a poke. Hope you can find a usable rear end for short money. Don't bother trying to start it, even a motor with a cracked block will start and run, so it will need more diagnostics which will take time.
If the trailer needs tires or anything, try to get a few more hundy off.
It's not about being a dick or anything, it's about getting in for the lowest you can since you are assuming ALL the risk. Once you hand over the money, that's it. Know that you can always walk away up to the very moment you pass the cash over. I'm probably a much harder negotiator which turns people off sometimes. The fact is, the seller won't give you a second thought once the thing is in your hands. Go with your 1500, hook and haul.
 
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For $11 k the mechanic should get you laid too.... does it come with a drive or is that roached from what ever impact this had? Kghost is steering you straight in the post above
 
I replaced the gimble ring and bell housing and all bellows boots ,shift cable and trim senders after hitting a log on my 3.0 alpha 1 gen 2 last year.
I got a nice whole assy. on ebay for $550 ..$
250 for the rest of the parts. About a 15 hour job,I took my time but it came out great. No need to pull the engine I used the JR Marine plate kit.Some good You Tube videos on it.
 
Dieter said:
For $11 k the mechanic should get you laid too.... does it come with a drive or is that roached from what ever impact this had? Kghost is steering you straight in the post above
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He actually showed me a written quote with that price. I started to take a pic of it because I didn't think anyone would believe me.
 
888mustang said:
I replaced the gimble ring and bell housing and all bellows boots ,shift cable and trim senders after hitting a log on my 3.0 alpha 1 gen 2 last year.
I got a nice whole assy. on ebay for $550 ..$
250 for the rest of the parts. About a 15 hour job,I took my time but it came out great. No need to pull the engine I used the JR Marine plate kit.Some good You Tube videos on it.
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I watched a video showing that kit being used. Any videos by other users? Would appreciate the links.
 
888mustang said:
I replaced the gimble ring and bell housing and all bellows boots ,shift cable and trim senders after hitting a log on my 3.0 alpha 1 gen 2 last year.
I got a nice whole assy. on ebay for $550 ..$
250 for the rest of the parts. About a 15 hour job,I took my time but it came out great. No need to pull the engine I used the JR Marine plate kit.Some good You Tube videos on it.
Click to expand...

Dont know what the kit is that he refers to but I would suggest doing this from an OEM prospective. Not a quick fix/kit.

Once you do so the OEM way, This boat if used normally and in Fresh water will most likely out last your ownership.

It is proper to remove the engine to this job.

The entire Transom assembly has to be disassembled and reassembled.

There is NO reason to have to squirm and contort to do this.

The 2+ hours of engine removal and re-installation will allow a seamless repair.

A professional/certified shop may skip pulling the engine based on experience doing such a job but as a Non pro, JUST DO IT! you wont be sorry you did.

Even today as I don't work in the business any longer and only do repairs for those who seek me out, I would pull the engine to do a complete and thorough job.
 
This is the kit he is speaking of so you can get to the bolt holding the swivel pin to the steering arm with out removing the engine. http://www.jrmarine.com/instructions.htm

I think this kit makes sense if you have a larger boat where it is a PITA to remove the engine vs a 3.0 in a typical bowrider. I think you'd spend more time F'ing with this than yanking the engine in this situation.

Based on the OP's comments the original drive comes with it and the $11k quote included $7k in parts you will need a drive as well as that had to take the impact that caused this. A good used fresh water transom assy and drive, remove the engine so you can get a good isnpection on any damage to the transom would be the best bet.
 
lsufan71 said:
He actually showed me a written quote with that price. I started to take a pic of it because I didn't think anyone would believe me.
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I belived you.

I got my current boat ('04 Sea Ray 200) when a friend of a friend bought a it at a used car lot against his admiral's wishes... used it for three weeks and found out the block was cracked. He got a $12k estimate to install a reman Merc bobtail engine (($7k for engine alone). It only had 37 hrs on it, was a essentialy new 11 year old boat that I bought for $3k, bought a new base engine manifolds etc for about $5k and have enjoyed it for the last 5 seasons.
 
Ya, I used the Merc kits a few times but only based on Customers light wallets....

90% of the time, Engine came out.
 
It would be helpful to see outdrive. If object was struck while underway, could be engine damage, among other unmentionables. This was a helluva strike..... unless the guy got rear-ended on the road while trailering.
 
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re: "PS. That boat with a 4 cylinder is no ski boat. It will struggle to pull anybody up out of the water, if that's what you're hoping to do with it. You need a V8, no question."

My first boat was like this... I used it to fish in the bay... On the few occasions I tried to have someone ski with this rig, It was one at the helm, one lightweight observer and one in the water.... everyone else on land. Even at that it wasn't all that much fun.
 
sandkicker said:
re: "PS. That boat with a 4 cylinder is no ski boat. It will struggle to pull anybody up out of the water, if that's what you're hoping to do with it. You need a V8, no question."

My first boat was like this... I used it to fish in the bay... On the few occasions I tried to have someone ski with this rig, It was one at the helm, one lightweight observer and one in the water.... everyone else on land. Even at that it wasn't all that much fun.
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I skied behind several 2.5/3.0 powered boats over the years ( and Im 250 lbs)While i agree it is less than ideal from a water sports perspective, it can be mitigated by changing props. I had really good luck with two different pitches of michigan votex 4 blade props. Used a 18” for tubing and general loaded cruising, a 16”for skiing and wakeboarding.

What it was is inexpensive starter boat that got my family on the water and was economical to maintain. Sure i prefer our 21 ft with a 5.0 especially now that the kids are teens and they bring friends, but i miss filling up a 17 gal tank and the easy access of the 3.0 for service and winterization.
 
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