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Transmission removal & swap

Peter Schalck

Peter Schalck

Member
Thanks for any input in advance!
I'm new to Crusader Engines, making the jump from Ford to Chevy and need some advice.

I want to use my original 1:1 Velvet drive but need to drop the 1.52:1. The drive is a six bolt pattern but it appears the middle bolts are covered by the tranny mounts, Should I remove the mounts or is there a trick to get at those bolts? Has anyone seen videos of this removal? Anyone have schematics for a 1986 Crusader 270 that shows the removal process?

Thanks
Pete
 
Not exactly clear on what you have or are trying so here's my best shot.

Sounds like you want to swap in a used crusader 270 but you want to remove the existing 1.5:1 reduction gear and use a different 1:1 gear. the gears are held to the flywheel cover using studs and nuts vs bolts....so you can keep the mounts bolted to the gears.

without knowing any of the details, I'd suggest replacing the damper plate while things are apart.
 
makomark said:
Not exactly clear on what you have or are trying so here's my best shot.

Sounds like you want to swap in a used crusader 270 but you want to remove the existing 1.5:1 reduction gear and use a different 1:1 gear. the gears are held to the flywheel cover using studs and nuts vs bolts....so you can keep the mounts bolted to the gears.

without knowing any of the details, I'd suggest replacing the damper plate while things are apart.
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm installing a running takeout Crusader and plan to use my original 1:1 gear. I've got the rear of the engine jacked up and cribbed so I can support the block when I pull the 1.5:1 off. I was just perplexed because it appeared 2 of the studs, what I called bolts, were inaccessible because the mounts are in the way. Now that it's blocked up I think I can see better what's going on.

And yes, I definitely will be replacing the damper plate while it's apart.

Thanks!
 
You should be alright then...

FWIW, you may find two 6" 'studs' (6" bolts with the heads removed) helpful for reinstalling the gear...I usually use the lower holes...these will help hold the gear stable while you get the input shaft to line up with the damper plate...if you have a hoist, using it to hold the gear, is another option.
 
makomark said:
You should be alright then...

FWIW, you may find two 6" 'studs' (6" bolts with the heads removed) helpful for reinstalling the gear...I usually use the lower holes...these will help hold the gear stable while you get the input shaft to line up with the damper plate...if you have a hoist, using it to hold the gear, is another option.
Click to expand...

Great idea with the 6" studs, I think with those and the chainfall it should be pretty easy to re-install.
Thank you again!
 
My next question for the group...
Wondering what others have done for mounts? It looks like the Crusader mounts that are ci=urrently on the 1.52:1 have the same bolt pattern as the Ford mounts that are on my 1:1. Should I consider using the Crusader mounts or look for alternatives? I did read there are some custom mounts for this type of conversion but that's about as far as I've gotten. Any advice or suggestions on where to start looking would be appreciated!

Pete
 
the bolt hole patterns for the gears should be the same.

I would suggest you want to keep the same mount design front to back, to make adjusting them consistent.

I believe the crusader mounts are good for at least 2000 hours, in a well maintained vessel, that isn't launched off waves continually.

If you use the crusader mounts, only use 1/2" galvanized lag bolts...stainless lags won't hold up very long...and make sure the engine bed is solid.
 
makomark said:
the bolt hole patterns for the gears should be the same.

I would suggest you want to keep the same mount design front to back, to make adjusting them consistent.

I believe the crusader mounts are good for at least 2000 hours, in a well maintained vessel, that isn't launched off waves continually.

If you use the crusader mounts, only use 1/2" galvanized lag bolts...stainless lags won't hold up very long...and make sure the engine bed is solid.
Click to expand...

I was kind of hoping the response might be this direction. I really like the look of the Crusader mounts compared to the Ford especially in the way the adjustment "screws" are set up, looks much easier than the Ford mounts.

My next step is to confirm the beds are solid. I know there is a little rot in there as the lags came out easier than they should have. They sound fairly solid with a hammer blow, but I plan to open them up to be sure.
 
Almost forgot....make sure the nylon sleeves spin freely within the 'eyes'...if so, add a coat of anti-seize the the threads of the sleeves and spin the sleeves to get the anti-seize into the metal threads. it will minimize the rust build up which will eventually 'freeze' the sleeves...and do this before you put the engine in....
 
^^^^^^This!
Crusader mounts are the best until they are allowed to corrode. Slather the whole thing in grease if you have to but don't allow them to get funky
 
makomark said:
Almost forgot....make sure the nylon sleeves spin freely within the 'eyes'...if so, add a coat of anti-seize the the threads of the sleeves and spin the sleeves to get the anti-seize into the metal threads. it will minimize the rust build up which will eventually 'freeze' the sleeves...and do this before you put the engine in....
Click to expand...

Excellent, thanks again. I will heed the good advice.
 
So, I got the mounts off the crusader, set aside and will inspect etc... My problem now is the bottom two bolts out of the 6 holding the tranny appear to be threaded studs and are holding up the transmission from breaking free of the Bellhousing. Does anyone know if these bottom two holes are threaded in the transmission or am I just looking at threaded studs running through a clean hole? If they are not tapped/threaded maybe a little persuasion is all I need to break the seal? Thanks for any advice. I' happy to give more details if needed.
 
Am I just looking at threaded studs running through a clean hole?

yes, if the holes were threaded to match the ends of the studs, it would be a major PITA to re-mate the gear to the flywheel cover...
 
makomark said:
Am I just looking at threaded studs running through a clean hole?

yes, if the holes were threaded to match the ends of the studs, it would be a major PITA to re-mate the gear to the flywheel cover...
Click to expand...

Yes, you were right. All it took was a bigger persuader, a 15lb. weight for a bit more inertia, to crack the seal then it slid right off nicely. Also, I was looking at the wrong frigging seam! Can't believe I did that twice. I was focused on the first one closest to the bolt heads, forgetting that the seal is closer to the bellhousing. I should have remembered that, I did the same thing removing the 1:1 from the Ford. I guess a month is too long for my memory to work.

Damper plate is next in line while the 1:1 gets inspected and new seals.

I appreciate the advice and moral support from all, thanks!
 
Its great getting old....that's why a lot of us visit the forum here...

Sounds like you are almost at the crest of the hill....
 
What's everyones thought on transmission cooler sizes? My Ford 302 with the 1:1 gear had a 6" cooler which never got hot. The 1.52:1 tranny on the Crusader has the 12" cooler (CRU-97886). Since I swapped back and are using the 1:1 gear do I need the larger cooler or can I get a way with the 6" as long as the water inlet is 1-1/4"? Either way I plan to buy a new one as both are old enough that I am not comfortable reusing either.

Also, has anyone moved their heat exchanger from rear to front or top mount? Looking for ideas on front mount brackets as my console/engine cover is tight!
 
what's the model number for your 1:1 gear? if its a 71, the 6 in cooler is adequate...if its a 72 series, the installation manual I have says you'll need 9" of cooler.

I don't have much on the SBC HX migration - the bulk of my experience w/ crusader HX is with the BBCs...I'd be tempted to go thru the 5.7 parts breakdown and see if they had a front mount option. On the OEM HX we had, the mounts were part of the HX assembly...I went to mercruiser parts - long story....that may be another option as well...
 
makomark said:
what's the model number for your 1:1 gear? if its a 71, the 6 in cooler is adequate...if its a 72 series, the installation manual I have says you'll need 9" of cooler.

I don't have much on the SBC HX migration - the bulk of my experience w/ crusader HX is with the BBCs...I'd be tempted to go thru the 5.7 parts breakdown and see if they had a front mount option. On the OEM HX we had, the mounts were part of the HX assembly...I went to mercruiser parts - long story....that may be another option as well...
Click to expand...

Thanks Mark, It's a 71C. A 6" cooler would be good to save space and if I am able to find or make a front mount for the heat exchanger the 6" cooler can move to the rear as the Ford was set up. Yeah, my 5.7 HX has the bracket as part of it. I'll check with my machine shop buddy and see if we can cut and/or weld a custom mounting set up somehow. Looks to me like theres enough threaded holes in the block to do something solid.
 
o2batsea said:
^^^^^^This!
Crusader mounts are the best until they are allowed to corrode. Slather the whole thing in grease if you have to but don't allow them to get funky
Click to expand...

I now see what you mean. At first glance the Crusader mounts seemed like they would be slick. I didn't realize until I had them on the bench that the turn buckles are plastic! WTF were they thinking there? Since the threads were seized it took one second to snap the brittle turnbuckles. After a little more research and a call to Vince at skidim (great guy!!) I will go with my original PCM trans mounts and pick up a set Ford-to -Chevy front engine mount brackets that accept the Ford mounts. It should be the same footprint as what I had. Phooey on the Crusader mounts!
 
There are a few outfits that make retrofit FWC kits....you can search the web and get mounting ideas - there are a few different approaches...

The merc mount is literally a curved shelf....the HX sits atop of the shelves and hose clamps keep it together...simple....
 
I'll check out the Merc set ups, thanks. At the very least it'll give me more ideas. This closed system is new to me so every little tip helps, much appreciated!
 
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