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Older engine, Low hours - Concerns ?

abl1111

Regular Contributor
Hi. A friend of a friend is selling an early 2000's 5.7L 350 freshwater run, closed system, freshwater cooled engine that has very low hours. It's been properly stored and winterized each season.

Should I have any reservations/ concerns about the marinization parts of this set up or anything else ? i.e. heat exchanger, fuel cooler, etc ?

Thx
 
This is just me, but I'd count on replacing anything made of rubber. Maybe it looks OK, but I ask would you drive a car with 20 year old hoses, belts and tires? This includes things like the rear main seal, the valve seals and fuel system parts. Water pumps too. Maybe you'll be alright running this with ethanol fuel but you should think about upgrading to alcohol resistant parts.
I dunno. I guess if you're a wrench anything mechanical isn't intimidating but if you have to pay someone else to keep this going, then it's gonna be a few thousand in parts and labor to get it up to standard.
As Jeff says, get professional eyes on it. That won't cost much and can save you untold heartache especially if it has a cracked block or something. I'm sure your friend's buddy would never screw anybody over, right?
 
I agree with comments of Jeff and O2. Not sure of your knowledge level on boats and mechanicals but worth the money to have a survey and mechancial inspection.

For better or worse I do all my own work. If it we me I would run it do a compression test and measure the oil pressure hot. IF those are good and there is no eveidence of water in the oil or cracked block or manifolds then likely the engine is ok. Check the gear oil for metal or water intrusion. As far as the survey you want to know if the hull and structure are in good shape, if there is any strucutral wood is it rot free. Defintiely check the fuel system for contamination if it has been sitting.

If you buy it and they havent been done (aka receipts as proof) plan on having the bellows/gimbal bearing/water pump impeller serviced. If carbed plan on having it cleaned out and replace ignition componets. Traile rprobably tires and brakes if it has them.

Bottom line where I boat in NYS on a lake the season is so short you see a lot of boats like this hardly used hrs wise. They last a long time with a little upkeep.
 
Here in Michigan, I run what's called "recreational fuel" in my '95 Mercruiser. No ethanol in it. Costs 70-cents/gallon more than regular pump gas, but it's worth it to me.
 
Thx guys. This is just for the engine, no boat, no drive. I've got both of those already :). My mercruiser runs great but has over 1000 hours on her and the opportunity to use the same engine but with double digit, hours popped up.

I do all my own work on my current engine other than really 'heavy lifting' i.e. transom mount, etc. I have to see if this engine is out of its current boat or not. I am concerned about the fuel injection components and the cooling parts that have raw water run through - none of which are cheap on a mercruiser, ie. heat exchanger, cool fuel pump etc...

Not sure how much can be surveyed if engine is out of the boat. Cosmetically, the engine looks new ( again, I own the same engine. Mine is just an older version with more hours. I know what a well kept one looks like - 'cause I own one ).

What would be the value of this engine, if all OK/ mint and under 100 hours ?

What should I look for if it's out of the boat ? If in the boat, I will do a compression test and check the oil.

Thx again
 
Ok i didn’t catch that was just the engine You can run it outside the boat fairly easily. Yeah compression and oil pressure, look for water in oil and any evidence of cracks on block by drains above oil pan, and in manifolds.

If you want to run it outside the boat we can walk you though how to hot wire it at the cannon plug and rig up fuel and cooling water.

i assume this was run in salt water? Id just check the fuel cooler by taking raw water hoses off them, maybe take the ends off the heat exchanger. If its the same engine you have good spares of these.

price wise it always amazes me seeing used bobtail engines for like $5k . Personally i would like to pay like $2500 for a used engine. If your engine except for the hours runs good, you can buy a brand new GM base engine for like $3500 with a 1 yr warranty from places like michigan motorz. Seems like you can swap a long block over easily so wouldn’t in this case pay any ore than that.

other than the hours whats wrong with your engine? Would be interested to know the compression and oil pressure? The 3.0 in my old boat with 800 or so hard hours, lots of tubing and skiing ( 3800-4800 rpm), still had 145 psi and great oil pressure. Point is you may not gain much... when i bought my current boat as a handyman’s special with a cracked block, it only had 37 hours on it. Still had the factory oil (was hakf oainted black with the egine) and fuel filters on it, and original gear lube. So doesnt take long to mess up an engine.

why is this guy selling the engine? Did boat rot around it or is he repowering an underpowered boat?
 
Engine in boat. It starts and runs. Replacement blocks are cheap. It’s all the marinization stuff that is $$$ and putting my old stuff on a new block, IMO, is asking for trouble.

My current engine is perfect - has the typical maintenance things, but runs great. But, it’s like a car with 80,000 miles on it - things have a life cycle... I love my hull and could see myself using it for another 5 years or so. I dropped my engine in new, back in 2003. She’s been babied and has treated me well. I really don’t like i/o’s but I’ve had this one for 17-18 years.

Then, I have to think of the expense of having someone pull my motor and installing this one...
 
1000 hrs isn't that much. Keep what you have. Should last 5000 hours no problem. They don't wear out the same way car engines do.
 
I'd think an oil analysis and a leakdown test will tell you whats going on internally but won't help you much with your 'bolt on concerns'...20 years old is 20 years old....depends on where you comfort level is and how thick your wallet is....
 
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