Here is QUICK START.........
NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER:
1. Disconnect BOTH of the Black/Yellow stop wires AT THE POWER PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition has spark, the
stop circuit has a fault. Check the key switch, harness and shift switch.
2. Disconnect the Yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine sparks, replace the rectifier.
3. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly. This is usually
caused by a weak battery or dragging starter. Connect a battery charger on its highest setting to the battery and retest. If
good spark, replace the starter and/or battery with an 850+ CCA cranking/dual purpose non-maintenance-free type.
4. Inspect and clean all engine and ignition ground connections.
5. Check the stator and timer base resistance and DVA output as given below for BOTH banks:
WIRE READ TO RESISTANCE DVA (Connected) DVA (Disconnected)
Brown Brown/Yellow (1st Pair) (d) 900-1100 (35 amp) 150-400 V 150-400 V (*)
Brown/White Brown/Black (2nd Pair) (d) 900-1100 (35 amp) 150-400 V 150-400 V (*)
Orange Orange/Black 93-103 11-22 V 45-120 V (*)
White Purple (c) 100-400 V (a) 0.6 V + (#)
White Blue (c) 100-400 V (a) 0.6 V + (#)
White Green (c) 100-400 V (a) 0.6 V + (#)
White Purple (2nd connector) (c) 100-400 V (a) 0.6 V + (#)
White Blue (2nd connector) (c) 100-400 V (a) 0.6 V + (#)
White Green (2nd connector) (c) 100-400 V (a) 0.6 V + (#)
White Black/White (2nd connector) 215-225 6-12 V (b) 6-12 V (from pack)
(*) This reading can be used to determine if a stator or pack has a problem. For instance, if you have no spark on any cylinder and the
stator’s DVA reading is out of spec – disconnect the stator wires and recheck the DVA output. If the reading is still out of spec – the stator is
bad. If the reading is now within spec – the pack is bad.
(#) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no spark on one
cylinder and the timer base’s DVA reading for that cylinder is low – disconnect the timer base wires and recheck the DVA output. If the
reading stays low – the timer base is bad. If the reading is now within spec – the pack is bad.
(a) Check stator DVA first. Then if timer base DVA is 0.6 - 2.5 V, the pack is faulty. If below 0.6 V or 2.6 - 99 V, the timer base is faulty.
(b) DVA will drop below 1 V when the engine drops out of Quick-Start (engine is over 104 Degrees or 1200 RPM).
(c) Use a comparison reading as different brands of meters will give different readings. The typical range is 1M to 5M ohms. As long as
you have approximately the same ohm reading on all six tests and the correct output with the DVA meter, the timer base should be good.
Remember that temperature will affect the readings. The exception would be if one of the SCR’s inside the timer base is breaking down
while the engine is running. This can be found indexing the flywheel and checking the timing on all cylinders. If the readings are off, reverse
the meter leads and retest to see if the readings are corrected.
(d) Wires must be paired correctly. If the wires are crossed between pairs, the resulting feedback will destroy the power pack.
6. Check the center hub triggering magnet in the flywheel. A loose magnet can cause this problem.
7. Check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracked, broken and loose magnets.1. Disconnect BOTH of the Black/Yellow stop wires AT THE POWER PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition now has spark, the stop circuit has a fault. Check the key switch, harness and shift switch.
*********NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE BANK:**********
1. Disconnect BOTH of the Black/Yellow stop wires AT THE POWER PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition now has spark,
the stop circuit has a fault. Check the key switch, harness and shift switch.
2. Swap the stator wire pairs from one side of the engine to the other side and see if the problem moves. If it does, the stator is
bad.
3. Disconnect the Yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine sparks, replace the rectifier.
4. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly. This is usuallycaused by a weak battery or dragging starter. Connect a battery charger on its highest setting to the battery and retest. If good
spark, replace the starter and/or battery with an 850+ CCA cranking/dual purpose non-maintenance-free type.
5. Check the stator resistance and DVA output for BOTH banks (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER above).
6. Check the DVA output on the Orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a
reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one bank, disconnect the Orange wires from the ignition coil for that
bank and reconnect them to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, one or all of the ignition coils are likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:
1. Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed of less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to spark properly. This is usually
caused by a weak battery or dragging starter. Connect a battery charger on its highest setting to the battery and retest. If good
spark, replace the starter and/or battery with an 850+ CCA cranking/dual purpose non-maintenance-free type.
2. Check the DVA output on the Orange wires from the power pack while connected to the ignition coils. You should have a
reading of at least 150V or more. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the Orange wire from the ignition coil for that
cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad.
3. Check the timer base resistance and DVA output for BOTH banks (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER above).
4. Check the power pack resistance given below:
Wire Color (CYL) Check to Wire Color Resistance
Orange/Blue (#1) Blue (in male 4 pin connector with White wire) 110 (a)
Orange (#3) Purple (in male 4 pin connector with White wire) 110 (a)
Orange/Green (#5) Green (in male 4 pin connector with White wire) 110 (a)
Orange/Blue (#2) Blue (in female 4 pin connector with Black/White wire) 110 (a)
Orange (#4) Purple (in female 4 pin connector with Black/White wire) 110 (a)
Orange/Green (#6) Green (in female 4 pin connector with Black/White wire) 110 (a)
White Black (Engine Ground) Shorted
Brown, Brown/Yellow Black (Engine Ground) Open or M range
Brown/White, Brown/Black Black (Engine Ground) Open or M range
Orange, Orange/Black Black (Engine Ground) Open or M range
(a) Use a comparison reading as different brands of meters will give different readings. The typical range is 90 to 150 ohms.
You should have approximately the same ohm reading on all six tests. If one of the SCR’s inside the power pack is shorted
or open, the readings will be quite a bit different.
5. Check the spark plug wires for breaks and abrasions.
6. Visually inspect the ignition coils for burned or discolored areas and cracks in the casing (indicating arcing inside the coil).
7. Swap the ignition coil with one that is sparking correctly.
8. Rare causes include a weak trigger magnet. If possible, try another flywheel.
