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No gasket in water pump housing (1977 6hp)

coteno47

Member
I am preparing my 1977, 6hp, for the next season.
Took the lower unit off and dig in the water pump.
Surprisingly, the is no gasket between the steel plate and the plastic impeller housing.
Part diagram show no gasket for the 1977 and 1978 models, a new design appears in 1979

Do you advise me to reassemble as is (no gasket, just 4 srew holding down the impeller housing)
Is this ''no gasket'' situation a source of problem eventualy?

Thank for your advice

Normand
Québec
 
Present the facts.----Does your 77 model have the 79 model water pump kit installed ?----The 79 kit uses a gasket and the older pumps do not.
 
I am preparing my 1977, 6hp, for the next season.
Took the lower unit off and dig in the water pump.
Surprisingly, the is no gasket between the steel plate and the plastic impeller housing.
Part diagram show no gasket for the 1977 and 1978 models, a new design appears in 1979

Do you advise me to reassemble as is (no gasket, just 4 srew holding down the impeller housing)
Is this ''no gasket'' situation a source of problem eventualy?

Thank for your advice

Normand
Québec

So, you say you have a plastic housing-----a 1979-up kit.
 
Tomorrow I will double check if the impeller housing is plastic or metal.
I am sure that there was no gasket so it must be the 1977 original design.
 
Sorry for my wrong information: Effectively the impeller housing in NOT PLASTIC but metal (light)
So with your help I understand that it is the 1977 pump design and no gasket is needed.

Outboard and mecanic is new so I apologise for my mistake.

Normand
 
That pump housing was first used in 1954 I think.------These motors are wonderfully simple and easy to maintain.-----Knowing where and how to shop for parts helps.------evinrudeparts.ca----Is a place that can support you.
 
Since this is mostly submerged in water all the time, (except when on a smaller boat...say, up on step @ full speed), a tiny leak here will hurt nothing. It's not like it has to actually "lift" water more than a few inches once on plane. At say 4000 rpm, this little pump is quite effective. I use anti seize on the pump screws, as well as the bolts holding the lower unit to the center (exhaust) housing. Also a little dab of high quality grease, or anti seize, on the driveshaft splines (where the shaft enters the crankshaft), is a must too. Be sure to keep fishing line from getting on prop shaft, as it will eventually damage that seal.....and don't tow your boat on the trailer unless it is in gear, why? The prop shaft seal is partially lubed and cooled by water. Fill lower unit from the bottom hole with gear oil, while motor is upright, then when it comes out the top hole, it is full. You must fill in this manner, why? There is a bit of airspace calculated into the engineering to allow for expansion and contraction in various temperatures. This little motor you have here is one of the best outboards ever made. Properly cared for with a few simple steps, it will last more than a human lifetime....I know, I have a 1965....it will certainly outlast me.
 
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Thank to all the contributor of my post.
I have view many youtube outboard videos but those videos cannot reveal all the details that we can encounter in a real backyard mecanic experience.
As a second level advantage, I had to practice my whriting english.

HAVE A GOOD 2021 YEAR

Normand
 
A fair amount of those videos are kinda "retarded". You have to hunt and choose for the good ones.
Prends garde, mon ami.
 
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