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Dreaded corrosion hole. 2004. 225

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surfnfisher

Contributing Member
So I have the dreaded corrosion hole. Leaking water.
Shop said just go with it as they would not fix it only put a new power head and that’s not in the cards. So i am on my own.

Ive read other posts. Jb weld? If so the two part or the steel stick? And other product that works better?
Also, how much needs to be removed to get in the valley above the vst.
Thanks for the help.
Happy Holidays
 
I have a basic distrust of patches like JB weld - though I'm not saying that wouldn't work. At some point, you have to wonder what you have to loose by giving it a try - assuming the leak isn't too bad!

I suppose it depends on how mechanical you are, and a few other variables for sure, but I would take the time to change the power head, or even just the block - with a used one. Preferably something that's been in fresh water only. With a manual, some time, and a healthy dose of patience, there's just a little rocket science involved.....
 
Mechanic said above the VST but was not specific just stated but they don’t fix that I’ll find out more I guess when I get the intake manifold off and start poking around
 
I had a 50 that was squirting a 4' stream of water from a tiny crack that was nearly impossible to see with a ***** eye. Point being, you might want to run your motor on cuffs to get a real good idea of where the water is coming from just in case!
 
surfnfisher said:
So I have the dreaded corrosion hole. Leaking water.
Shop said just go with it as they would not fix it only put a new power head and that’s not in the cards. So i am on my own.

Ive read other posts. Jb weld? If so the two part or the steel stick? And other product that works better?
Also, how much needs to be removed to get in the valley above the vst.
Thanks for the help.
Happy Holidays
Click to expand...

Behind the VST is a common place for a corrosion hole, you'll need to remove the VST and maybe the intake manifold to get at it. If there is enough room I don't see why an experienced welder can't weld a patch.
 
Follow the instruction to take off the VST so you have a good visual of the crack/hole. If it was my outboard, I would have no hesitation in using the 2 part jb weld to patch it up. Just make sure you do the prep work to prepare the site for jB weld and let it cure for 24 hours. If it's just leaking water, the patch would work. I've use JB weld in the past to patch up a cracked engine oil cover and it held up well.

You should investigate the corrosion issue though and see what you can do to prevent it from happening. The use of rydlyme? Also internal anodes should be inspected as well. I have a BF130 that had corrosion issue affecting the outboard performance (one cylinder not operating). Corrosion resulted in pinhole in the cylinder head.
 
Okay..
I got everything apart, cleaned and sanded. Hole was pretty
big. Size of an eraser.. put some mesh over the hole and JB welded it, two coats. old repair that came off was found under vst . Looked like a shotty job.
put everything back and she ran like a champ. Telltale has much more power haha. No alarms all good for now..
Thanks for the help.
I took pictures but can’t upload with my
iPhone I guess.
thanks again !!
 
surfnfisher said:
Okay..
I got everything apart, cleaned and sanded. Hole was pretty
big. Size of an eraser.. put some mesh over the hole and JB welded it, two coats. old repair that came off was found under vst . Looked like a shotty job.
put everything back and she ran like a champ. Telltale has much more power haha. No alarms all good for now..
Thanks for the help.
I took pictures but can’t upload with my
iPhone I guess.
thanks again !!
Click to expand...

Congrats! Upload some pictures for inspiration. :)
 
I have often wondered if you could drill and tap a hole, ie make it round, thread it and put a plug in it, it fit a frost plug or Welch plug, like in automotive blocks, but use stainless or something.
 
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