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1972 50 hp still in crate one year ago

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Saltwater1

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FB7F7BBA-131E-41FD-A890-2A09DCC20D66.jpgDE447F61-709E-428D-9A06-FAB3A0DD5681.jpg3DE386AE-6E09-4D0B-BA0A-14CFDEC09EC0.jpgA7B3BD96-C982-4C76-94A2-6F1710E66189.jpg47AA058C-0934-4E9F-BE0B-484B6A53948F.jpgLooking at a 1972 50 hp Lark.it was in storage in the original crate. It has since been sold and returned with 2 hrs on it.the buyer did not like the electric shifting with buttons. I now have the opportunity to purchase it. I an refurbishing a 1973 Steury runabout and this would match great.not up on the electric shift motors and wondered if it’s worth it.I know how they work and also problems encountered. Thinking out of the crate it might be worth it if I maintained it from new. Then I’ve heard they were “ built broken”. Any input?
 
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There is nothing wrong with the design of those electric shift units.-----They are simple / reliable / well engineered.----Don't like push buttons , then look for the Johnson single lever control box.---Only one with the big yellow plug will work.
 
Install a new water pump impeller.----Test overheat horn.----Use the correct propeller for the boat / load.-----Mix gas oil at 50:1.----Use type-C gear oil ( premium blend ) for electric shift.
 
Never...ever use ethanol fuel. Beautiful motor......love those Steury boats. Please post picture of boat if you can. Chrysler had push button tranys for years....pretty cool stuff. Never tow boat allowing prop to spin. You will damage prop shaft seal......That motor should be in a museum, brother. If it was me....I'd restore a '73 50 horse for the Steury..... Depending on what color is your boat.
 

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Here is a 1973 50 horse.....one of the best outboards ever made....just my opinion.
 

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Here's what happens to new "synthetic rubber" impellers when they sit awhile...nice, eh?
Sadly.....the original impeller in that old 50 is way better than the "plastic" you buy today.....why? It's pure latex rubber! I suggest removal, inspection.....then re- install if still flexible and no cracks. It will likely outlast your "new one"......Hint: Brass hubs with teeth bonding to the rubber "material"....are "generally" a better quality than the others you can buy.
 

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The impeller shown in that picture appears to be from an inline 6 cylinder Mercury + other models from them.----I recommend a new impeller on those every 2 years in cold , cold water.
 
That 1972 motor will still have the water pump with aluminum housing---which gave us a lot of grief in salt water. "Grief" such as burnt-up motors in about a year (sometimes less). Your handle being Saltwater1, I assume that means something. If it were mine, I would replace the entire pump with the improved kit with a plastic housing w/stainless steel liner. Complete improved pump kit part number is 389133.
 
The seller said the water pump was replaced , it was sitting in storage so long I’m sure the impeller had no flex. Just guessing I will ask if the aluminum housing was replaced.
 
Wonderful opportunity to see what compression reads on this " new motor "-----And good information for future reference.
 
Are you REALLY gonna put that out in the salt? That's like taking your new Grand Cherokee to the winter roads here in Minnesota.
 
Yes, that's another beauty.....better suited for the ocean. You have very good taste in boats. I occasionally get called to work on ships for the Navy. Service and build main engines. I really get to see salt destruction.....makes me sick. My work here on the great lakes, however, doesn't include "salties".

Here's our "saltie" in the Philippines. Previous owner and builder stands with her. Features a direct drive 6.5 hp inboard, all wood construction with epoxy paint. Top speed about 15 mph with 3 aboard. Price down there 15,000 Phil pesos.......$300 USD. It's considered an old boat at 10 years.
 

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72 electric 50 hp control box with black plug male. Yellow plug female at motor. Hole pattern seems ok . Does this need both yellow male female?
 
The 71 and 72 model 50 HP and the 72 ----65 HP models were the only ones that used the YELLOW plug.----So yes you need both ends to be yellow.----Or you must know what to do to get around this little issue.----Do NOT try it as it is !!!----A Johnson single lever control with the yellow plug would also work.
 
Sorry----If this was in front of me , on my work bench I could figure it out.------For you and " plug and play " you need a control with the CORRECT yellow plug !!
 
Yellow plug is for motors with Hydro-Electric Shift AND Mag CD Ignition. Those would be the motors previously mentioned. They were the last year for Hydro-Electric and first year for Mag CD.
 
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Thanks, I’m trying to locate the yellow plug harness. Not cheap ! Even ratty old ones. Like I said the harness with the black male end has one pin slightly off ,I think it’s pre 72 , the control box is right on with my model
 
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