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BF 200 Power loss

tundrapup

Member
I have an 04 BF 200 that had the fuel system replaced 3 years ago due to loss of power that turned out to be corrosion in the high pressure fuel pump. (used ethanol gas) since then its run at least once a month and with only good gas (non ethanol 93 octane) I drained the gas out of the tank as it was in there for some time and had it set up to run on gas can. my son took it out and decided to fill the main tank 80 gal ran half of it out running good. Took it out two weeks later. Loading CC he disconnected a ground for the gauges (didn't know this at the time) filled back up but took it out with out gauges. Ran great at the end of the day it wouldn't plane or go up above 2k, no lights beeping nothing. After getting it back I find the wire disconnected gauges work and was almost empty. Hoped he just ran it to low hooked up can again no power, replaced low pressure filter (some dirt) high pressure and vast are clean still no power. Plugs look good compression is good fuel bulb is firm nothing happens when pumped. IAB was a little sticky.
 
Give more detail on your statement: "hooked up can again no power"

Top of mind...

First - check your kill switch. Work it back and forth a bunch of times, then set the yoke and try again.

When you first turn on the key switch, can you hear the fuel pump come on for about 2 seconds?

Check your fuses. Don't just look at them, but test each for continuity and no discernable resistance.

Drain the VST to make sure that low fuel didn't suck water into the VST.

The IAB will not interfere with starting. It kicks in at 3800 rpm.
 
After I got the boat back and found the cause of no gauges I saw it was very low on gas. Hoped the little fuel was moving away from pick up when trying to plane. I hooked up a gas can no luck, drained vast replaced both filters the low pressure had some debris in it. Still no luck, cleaned /checked filter again and drained vast no dirt or water. starts and runs fin with muffs on. No luck on the water pulled plugs there good spun motor with pressure gauge lowest was 185 IAB was sticking so lubed that working good now. Fresh gas can revs fine but still under load it starts fumbling at 2k and throttle doesn't effect it
 
OK.

When running the boat, and it bogs down, have you tried rapidly pumping the primer bulb to see if it clears up? If not, try that. If that temporarily fixes the problem, you could have a failing low pressure fuel pump.

Look at the low pressure filter bowl when it acts up. It should stay at least 1/3 full. If not, you may have a restriction in the fuel line.
Check it, especially where it feeds into the big black grommet where it enters the engine compartment. Corrosion can build up in there and restrict fuel flow.

Another possibility is that your fuel pick up tube in the fuel tank is partially clogged. Pull it and clean the screen that is on the end. (If there is debris in the tank and you ran it very low on fuel, this is a distinct possibility.)

If none of that addresses the problem check your fuel pressure. You attach your fuel pressure gauge to the pressure relief bolt on top of the HP fuel filter cover. You will need a 6 mm adaptor. At idle, with the vacuum tube removed from the fuel pressure regulator and clamped shut, fuel pressure should read 41 to 48 psi. If it is over that, then there is a screen on the fuel pressure regulator that may need to be cleaned. If it is under that, there is a screen on the bottom of the HP fuel pump holder that may need to be cleaned and possibly replaced because it's a real PITA to get it out.

See this description of the fuel filters and screens on this engine: View attachment Fuel filters and screens on BF 200 and BF 225.pdf
 
I'll have to find the adapters to test the pressure. The low pressure bowl stays full used to be like 1/3 is that an indication of something?
 
I've never seen mine be completely full when engine is running. I'm guessing here, but if the LP pump is pulling fuel from the tank but there is a restriction somewhere downstream of the LP pump, that would keep the LP filter bowl filled up. That could be caused by a failing HP fuel pump, a clogged screen under that fuel pump, a clogged or dirty fuel regulator, a sticking float valve in the VST, or several other things.

If you measure fuel pressure as described before, that may help you isolate the problem.
 
That's what I'm afraid of, having to get into the high pressure fuel side again. It was all replaced not 3 years ago and it isn't cheep, not to mention the labor costs.
 
Hmmmm! Never considered that. What would you be accomplishing by doing that? If there were obstructions in the fuel lines or filter screens that you would be trying to blow out, they would just end up somewhere else in the system. If you disconnected the feed to the fuel pressure regulator from the HP fuel pump, that could possibly clear the fuel pressure regulator, but not even sure of that.
 
Just thinking out loud sort of. I got looking at it again after another failed attempt and found more debris in the low pressure bowl. I drained the VST again and looked closer at it, found some very small sand like stuff in it. So was had a thought if I could blow the lines out backwards it might help without tearing it apart. can you recommend a good pressure tester seems I'm needing one. :) Found a service workshop manual for it so that will help also
 
If you got more debris in the LP filter bowl, then your problem is upstream - either dirty fuel tank or deteriorating fuel lines. Do you have an external fuel/water separator (e.g. Racor?) If so, when is the last time the filter was changed? They should be drained every 50 hours or so and replaced annually. If you don't have one, consider installing one. That will go a long way in keeping the rest of your fuel feed system clean.

However, you likely still have junk in your fuel system. You probably need to pull the VST, clean it out, carefully check the float value and re-set the float to spec. If I were doing that, I would just replace the float valve. And it would be wise to pull the HP fuel pump holder and clean that screen on the bottom.
 
can you recommended a fuel test kit that has the adapter in it (6mm). I see a lot out there but seem to be more for cars and nothing says what size adapters come with them. If I have to wait for something to show up I'd like to know it has what I need rather than have to find it and wait some more.
 
Just about any auto fuel pressure gauge will do and most auto parts stores should have an adaptor. I think most of the fuel pressure gauges come with a 1/8" or 1/4" NPT thread.

The gauge I use is a USG. Don't remember where i bought it or the adaptor.
 
I just got the gauge and hooked it up to the filter port on the high pressure side it tops out at 42-5 then back to 0 but I didn't start it. The filters and seals should be here in a day or so. How far do I have to take it apart to get to the regulator?
 
Couldn't wait reads 35 at idle without the line clamped if it has one (picture I looked at didn't show a vacuum line) but I did get glimpse of it I think (Lt side top behind the intake)
 
Couldn't wait reads 35 at idle without the line clamped if it has one (picture I looked at didn't show a vacuum line) but I did get glimpse of it I think (Lt side top behind the intake)
 
Is there something else that could cause this (timing / safe mode) you shouldn't have to change the filters more then you check the air in the tires.
I have replaced the low pressure and high pressure filters before the season and after the issue presented and just now again with the shipment of the tester also have been running from a separate gas source not the main tank (since that post) that also has an added filter prior to the engine. The test showed good pressure and by your post #4 there shouldn't be screen/ debris issue.
 
Sorry I thought my son took over for me but guess not. It did a 1 sec on 1 sec off when I tried it today. Came back home code show 6 short 1 long repeats. The 1 reset showed six short tried clear got the 2 beeps again but six short remain haven't tried to start it yet
 
MIL fault codes are here:View attachment MIL Fault Codes Scanned.pdf

Six short flashes are the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor. That sensor is located in the V of the engine and is a real PITA to get to. It plugs into a 2-pin connector coming out of the top of the block. If you can find that and get to it, unplug it and clean the contacts. Based on posts on this forum, the sensor itself seldom fails. The procedure for testing the sensor is here: View attachment ECT sensor test.pdf

Having said that, a faulty or disconnected ECT sensor should not prevent your engine from starting and running well, initially. When the ECU thinks it detects overheating from the ECT it will shut down after 20 seconds.
 
I took it to the bay and it started beeping right after the initial 2 beeps. Took it back home and went to wash it out thru the hose without running it. Didn't have a good stream so I took cowling off no kinks discoed hoe great flow so unplugged the pee hole. no more beep cleared code. ran great no codes or beeps. Took back to bay and no power at all. Called son to see what if anything he did in 6 months and got tired of conversation and took it to the repair shop. Thank you for all you do will let you know just hope its not another complete fuel component replacement
 
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