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1956 Evinrude 30HP sputters but won't run.

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midloglen

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I need some help. I have a 56 Evinrude outboard that just won't idle and run. I have good spark, have cleaned the carburator, set the timing using a timing tool, rebuilt the tank, and have new non-ethanol gas at 24 to 1 ratio. I know the tank & gas is good because I tested it on another motor. The one odd thing on this motor is that if I pump the tank gas will start to leak out of the carburetor. I don't know if that is normal or not. The engine will sometimes run for a moment if I give it extra gas and will idle for about 3-5 seconds sometimes before it dies.

Any ideas for this amateur would be greatly appreciated. I really want to see this thing purr.

Thanks,
Glen
 
Replace float valve.-----The pump on the tank pumps gas into the carburetor.------When the motor starts air is pumped into the tank to keep gas flowing to the motor.-----Does spark on this motor jump a gap of 1/4" or more ?----It has to , in order to be considered " good spark " on these.
 
Racerone,

I did replace all the gaskets. I'm not exactly sure by what you mean by jumping a 1/4" or more. I set the points at .20 and have a timing tool to set the timing. I replaced the float and pin. I will double check the carburetor.

Thanks,
Glen
 
What Racer is saying....you have to check spark to determine it's true strength....not just with a spark plug gap which is only .025, or so. You must challenge the magneto....or whatever ignition system you might be testing, by creating a gap test. Your motor should really jump 3/8"....if all spark components are "sweet". Your carb certainly CAN leak fuel past the float valve if you prime strongly.
 
Thanks for the post.

So how can I test that? Can I just create a break in the wire 3/8" to see if spark jumps across when turning over. Is there a tool that can be used? I probably sound like an amateur because I am. Most of this I'm relating to working on go carts and mini bikes when I was a kid.

Glen
 
Yes that's how I started out too. You can make something as simple as a number two Phillips screwdriver pushed into the spark plug boot then hold it approximately 3/8 of an inch away from a head bolt or other metal ground.
 
So I tested the spark using a gauge. The top cylinder consistently had a good blue spark across about 3/8 of an inch. The bottom cylinder would shoot across but not consistently. I would notice no spark every now and then. I am attaching a picture of my tester gap and the compression gauge. I already replaced the coils an spark plug wires. I certainly don't expect anyone to reply on Thanksgiving but didn't want to forget. Have a great holiday.

Thanks,
Glen
Spark .jpgBottom Cyl.jpgTop Cyl.jpg
 
Nice gap tester...great compression. Did you replace points? Condensers RARELY fail. That hit and miss on spark while cranking by hand is usually points. You can check them by using your multimeter....if you have one. Make sure they are closed and then with wires removed from the points, check continuity from the screw to ground. There must be zero resistance. Then open and close points a few times either with turning the motor, or simply by hand, using a small screwdriver...or something similar....then make sure each time the points close, you get PERFECT CONTINUITY.....in other words, NO RESISTANCE....or 0. The battery must be good in the multimeter, or otherwise you will show resistance.
 
Thanks for the help to start. I found that the spark is consistent on a shorter gap but not when I increase it to the gap size in the picture. Oh and this is an electric start. I can't pull like I used to. Do you still think it's probably points? I'm planning to pull the flywheel today and give them another look. I did use a timing tool the last time but maybe I missed something.

Thanks again,
Glen
 
Condensers do fail.-----If they are old , replace them.----Coils can be tested.-----Coil could be burned through and shorting to magneto plate.----The wire core plug wires can be tested too.---Should not be hard to fix this.
 
I have a tester for condensers made from a small oil furnace transformer. I zapp a charge to them, then check for power retention after a second or two. I hold the probe, connected to ground/condenser body, and check for spark leak about the cap area. Next slowly approach the condenser's wire end. When the probe reaches about 3/8" from the end, you get your "crackle". Honestly, I rarely find one that doesn't pass the test. Learned this from my very first outboard mentor. He had a repair service right on the bay here in Duluth. William Swanson....Bayview Boat works. If he was still alive he would be about 120 years old now. Only focused on Johnson Evinrude and could buy motors as a dealer, but his main claim to fame was his incredible repair record/history. I really should have tried to buy his place when he got sick. Later his nephew took over and ruined the business. Bill was the very best outboard mechanic I ever knew. Too many that call themselves "mechanics" are nothing but "parts replacers".
I like to fix what's bad....or gonna soon become a problem, predicting ahead based on experience and what the customers gonna expect, out of his motor. If he's going out on Lake Superior with just one motor, you really gotta cover "all bases".
 
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Great story. I feel there is something really odd going on. Today I replaced the coil and points and now it seems worse. I wonder if there was something weird done prior to my purchase. The motor looks like it had a lot of work done and appears to be in great shape. I am planning to get another coil + points + spark plug wire to see if I can get it right. Thanks for all your help. Glen
 
No I have copper core wires. I wasn't sure what was on originally but purchased some copper core wires and replaced them. It's the craziest thing that I can get the upper cylinder firing strong but the bottom keeps giving me issues. Yesterday I also removed the 2 wires used for a kill switch just in case they were shorting out somewhere. I ordered another new coil, points, and wires just to make sure everything is good. Do you recommend any particular parts that you have consistent success with? Thanks, Glen
 
As Racer said: Condensers DO fail. Did you replace them? I usually go Sierra or OEM on points. Did you "twist" the wires fully into the coils? Joe Reeves reminds us of that often. The pin inside the coil can get bent to one side too and not make good contact with your wire.
 
timguy said:
As Racer said: Condensers DO fail. Did you replace them? I usually go Sierra or OEM on points. Did you "twist" the wires fully into the coils? Joe Reeves reminds us of that often. The pin inside the coil can get bent to one side too and not make good contact with your wire.
Click to expand...

To add to Tim & Racerones' On Spot statements... those pins inside of the coils are spiral (thread like) so, indeed, screw the plug wire into them, Do Not simply push the wire in there! Note that WD40 is an excellent lubricant in getting that wire in there properly... also in assembling the plug boot assembly.

Clean the points with a small artist like brush, dipped with either Lacquer Thinner or Acetone.

Set the points by:
1 - Having the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the points, then......
2 - Set the points so that a .020 gauge will slide thru but a .022 will not.
 
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Thanks again everyone. I did screw the wire onto the coil and I also replaced the condensers. The WD40 is a great idea. I will check the point gap aging this week. I really want to see this motor run well. It looks to be in great shape.

Glen
 
Thanks keep us posted.....so many of us enjoy these old motors.....we grew up with them...love em. How did you set the coils for proper clearance to flywheel?
 
Wow! Great!.....got a picture of the boat? I have a 57 Johnson Javelin 30 would go nice on there too.
 
So something just dawned on me. I don't think either of my coils had the boots on them. Are the rubber boots important? If so that could be the problem.

Pictures attached. One is how I found it in the boathouse and the other is after I started cleaning it up. Boat.jpgRich-Line.jpg
 

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Rubber boots should be there, but if wire is in all the way onto pin and all clean, then it's a technicality. Likely not your problem. Pretty boat.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I believe the spark issue is fixed. I purchased new OMC coils, Seirra points, and copper spark plug cables.

Now I could use some help with the carburetor. I rebuilt and cleaned everything but would love some advice on the high speed and low speed screws. my kit came with a plastic and cork packing washer. Do I use one or both. If both do I have cork then plastic or plastic then cork? I've see some folks say the float should be parallel when the carb is held upside down and others say slightly tilted. I believe my tank, hose and connections are good (it maintains pressure).

Thanks,
Glen
 
Hi Glen. You can use one or the other for the packing. I like to lubricate the threads and packing with a little synthetic grease....as well as the threads on the pressure nut that is adjusted for friction and to stabilize the needle stem. I like to set float parallel with the float chamber surface when held upside down. I often add a small high quality in-line filter somewhere in the fuel supply line.
 
Still fighting this old Evinrude. I can get it to run but it still stalls no matter the adjustments. One weird thing is it seems like many times when it stalls gas comes out of the front of the carburetor and generally it won't start up until I release pressure on the tank. Then let it sit for a sec and re-pressure the tank then re-start. I feel I'm really close and want to test drive it in the spring. Any more ideas out there? I'm tempted to convert to a fuel pump type system. Thanks for any ideas. -Glen
 
midloglen said:
Still fighting this old Evinrude. I can get it to run but it still stalls no matter the adjustments. One weird thing is it seems like many times when it stalls gas comes out of the front of the carburetor and generally it won't start up until I release pressure on the tank. Then let it sit for a sec and re-pressure the tank then re-start. I feel I'm really close and want to test drive it in the spring. Any more ideas out there? I'm tempted to convert to a fuel pump type system. Thanks for any ideas. -Glen
Click to expand...

You're describing a carburetor that is flawed, flooding the engine... leaking/damaged float needle valve, flawed or improperly adjusted float, something of that nature. At any rate, the carburetor needs reviewing.
 
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