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Johnson V4 115HP Outboard leaking fuel from the bottom carby

Cylinder 1 & 3 plugs.jpgCylinder 2 & 4 plugs.jpgRacerone I have an update for you. Took spark plugs out and I think I am getting somewhere finally! If you look at pics, the plugs on the right are from cylinders 3 & 4 (I have my finger pointing out for cylinder 1 and with 3 next to it and then 2 and 4 in the other pic). So, the plugs on the right are from the problematic bottom carby that I replaced the float valve, seat, washer, pin and float and cleaned out the 4 side screws and jets on the float bowl. It is obviously running a lot richer and fouling bottom cylinder plugs. Why is that so? Any suggestions on where to go from now please? Cheers
 
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I changed spark plugs just before the breakdown and they were all like cylinders 1 and 3 (browny wet and not black). Motor also ran really well before the bottom carby leak. I think I will pull off the bottom carby first. In the one carby overhaul kit I got, there was a little curved wire to attach to the needle pin and then slide on the new float. The original carbys did not have this. Needle sat freely in the float valve. I actually attached that curved wire clip to the needle of that bottom carby. Should I remove it and just have needle sit freely as before? Thanks
 
That clip is intended to pull the needle off the seat when float drops.---It must be installed.----There is no reason not to install that clip.------Perhaps look into a dealer locally here.-----They may ship internationally.-----evinrudeparts.ca-----Good folks.
 
I just don't understand why that carby is running so rich now. Have I missed anything else that I need to do to the carburetor body?
 

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Most " carburetor problems " turn out to be something else.-----More trouble shooting is required.------I step aside now.
 
Success finally and don't know exactly why. I decided to take that wire clip off that new needle in the overhaul kit and let it drop onto the tang of the float like the way it was originally in the carbs. I readjusted the float tang to be exactly parallel to the carb body and reinstalled the bottom carb. Well my motor is back to normal as below. ;)
Thanks racerone and boobie.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VV-qeqt21ArmDnBzGpu0CVDKhgxFb21b/view?usp=sharing
 
That clip has been used for about 40 years or so on a 1,000,000 + motors.-----But it is a problem on your motor.----Makes you think does it not.
 
I agree and maybe it was something subtle that I did wrong in my first reassembly. In any case, I have got it right second time around but I don't know why. More than likely coincidental but the OMC factory needles had no groove for the clip and no clip there (an observation that threw me a little). Very happy to report that I ran my motor quite a few times, the splutter has gone and it's accelerating normally.
 
Racerone I want to sincerely thank you for your willingness to help. Says a lot about you and the way you make so much effort to help members here with all your vast knowledge on these motors. I am still learning but have been grateful for what I know to date. This motor has been a gem for us beginning in my teens and still going!!
All the very best to you and once again I appreciate your time to assist me. 😊 Cheers.
 
Racerone and others, I have an update for you. I now know what caused my splutter 100%!

I received my second overhaul kit I bought and decided to change the top carby float needle and valve too, seeing it has the original from 38 years ago and to minimize risk of that one possibly leaking in short term also. I took it off and re-installed the top carby once done but it started to splutter again after it was running really well on two fishing trips since the 26/11! :(
Now, I was finally confident it had nothing to do with the carby work I did. I studied everything again carefully and found that when you reinstall the 4 nuts on the carby onto the intake manifold,it can move very minimally BUT enough to make the throttle body not shut EVER so perfectly when the linkage arm is reinserted!! I could not believe this as I, by chance, removed the throttle arm and started it without realizing it was still off and it ran perfect on idle! It is not as if I had to move the throttle spring cam to slip the arm back into the plastic bushing at any stage of my re-installations as it went in firmly with no obvious movement of the cam to me. However, when I took the link arm off and on and snapped back the bottom carby throttle cam, it became obvious to me that it was not totally closed and very little, less than 1mm, in it!
So, I loosened the bottom cam screw and made sure the bottom carb throttle bodies were in the completely snap closed position and re-tightened screw. It was so hard to pick for me as obviously when I reinstalled the bottom carby again on the 26th and tightened the 4 nuts up, it went back in a position where the bottom throttle bodies were completely shutting when the arm was inserted. There you go guys! :)
 
Another good learning lesson for me. Never touched the carbys before this.

Can't source Adhesive M anywhere here anymore and mine has now gone off. Any aftermarket suggestions that I can use? Marprox Sealer 1000 and Boat Armor sealer is mentioned but not available in Australia.
 
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