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Engine replacement...

Well, need to replace my 5.7. I have a question about pulling the old one. Is it only the 6 bolts holding the engine to the Flywheel housing? Will the engine lift straight up or does it need to go forward first? Will there need to be any aligning done when new engine goes in. Also, I want to change out any bearings that Are there when the engine is out. Can anyone tell me what/where this/these bearings are. This is my first Volvo drive, always had Mercruisers.

Thanks in advance,
RichardIMG_0844.jpg
 
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Well, need to replace my 5.7. I have a question about pulling the old one. Is it only the 6 bolts holding the engine to the Flywheel housing?
Correct...... there will be 6 bolts holding the two together.... sometimes 7 if the top hole is used.
There will also be a dust plate on the lower FWD side of the flywheel cover..... 5 small screws if I recall.

Will the engine lift straight up or does it need to go forward first?
Pull the 4 lag bolts from the side engine mounts, leaving the mounts attached to the cylinder block.
The engine needs to slide FWD just a few inches, then it can be raised up.


Will there need to be any aligning done when new engine goes in.
There is a triangulation procedure that you can do.
Do a forum search.... I've posted on this many times.


Also, I want to change out any bearings that are there when the engine is out. Can anyone tell me what/where this/these bearings are.
That was next on my list to mention.
Yes.... PDS bearings and seals.
Your flywheel cover PDS requires industry standard 6206 and 6007 bearings, and two 35x62x7mm seals in a Timken or TCM brand.

These are industry standard parts that can be sourced by a good bearing supplier, and for a fraction of what VP wants for the exact same parts.
Be sure to pre-fill the grease cavity before installing the FWD seal.
Glue or stake the AFT seal in place so that grease gun pressure cannot blow it out of position.

This is my first Volvo drive, always had Mercruisers.
You'll like this much better.

Thanks in advance,
RichardView attachment 25385
 
Do the outdrive splines thread directly into the flywheel? if so, removing that would shorten the distance forward required to remove the engine.

You will have to take the outdrive off anyway in order to do the alignment once the new engine is installed. good time to replace the gimbal bearing and bellows, too.


-Jerry
 
.................
Do the outdrive splines thread directly into the flywheel?
No!
The out drive itself has a universal drive shaft attached to it.
The FWD section of the universal drive shaft has a female yoke attached to it.
That female yoke slips onto the AFT end of a PDS (primary drive shaft).
No threads.... slip splines only.

The FWD end of the PDS is also splined.... i.e., Borg Warner splines.
Those B/W splines slip into a Borg Warner drive coupler.
The Borg Warner drive couple is attached to the flywheel.


if so, removing that would shorten the distance forward required to remove the engine.
The PDS is held into the flywheel cover by snap rings.


You will have to take the outdrive off anyway in order to do the alignment once the new engine is installed.
No.... the one-time alignment involves a triangulation process. (I will explain the process to the OP if need be)
The drive can be in place while doing so.


good time to replace the gimbal bearing
The AQ series drives are main suspension fork and pivot tube geometry...... no Gimbal suspension... no Gimbal bearing.

and bellows, too.
Yes!

-Jerry
 
Thanks, Rick, when I said threaded, I should have said inserted. I did not realize those splines did not directly connect to the crank. I have an SX and was unaware of how the AQ worked in relation to the gimbal bearing.
 
Thanks, Rick, when I said threaded, I should have said inserted. I did not realize those splines did not directly connect to the crank. I have an SX and was unaware of how the AQ worked in relation to the gimbal bearing.
Correct........ the SX uses a gimbal system suspension, whereas the AQ series does not.

Rick, will I have to remove the flywheel cover in order to change the PDS bearings?

You will have the double bearing PDS.
Just remove the transmission and do this while the engine is out.
Your flywheel cover can remain attached to the transom shield.

Do a search using my user name...... you'll find quite a few threads and images regarding this.



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Here are several images that will help you.

Your set up has the red 1pc flywheel cover with the double bearing PDS.
Unfortunately, the engine must either slide forward enough, or be removed, in order to access the front area of the F/C.

Here are the components in their respective order.

PDS coupler and drive shaft 5.jpg

You will need a loooooooong needle nose plyers with the tips ground round, and tweaked in a bit.
This is done so that the tips will fit into the snap ring eyelets and not slip off.
Trust me...... no factory made snap ring plyers works as well!


PDS snap ring long needle nose pliers.jpg

PDS snap ring location.jpg


When going back together.

PDS info regarding the seal installations.jpg



NOTE: with the FWD seal glued/staked into position, and with AFT seal not yet installed, spin the PDS while you pump the grease cavity full of a good high pressure bearing grease.
Install the AFT seal only after you have seen new grease exit the 6206 ball cage.

This purges any air from the grease cavity ensuring that 4 to 5 full pumps in the future will actually replace the old grease.

Grease these during each engine oil change, and with engine at idle speed.



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Pop the upper off the drive and pull the bell with the engine block. Do it right.

Chris, this an AQ series drive.
Although it can be done as you suggest, there is no need to remove the flywheel cover from the transom shield in order to replace the PDS bearings and seals.
I've done this successfully many times.


If we do remove the engine with the F/C attached to it, and then pull it and put it on the work bench, it does make the task a bit easier.
But certainly not enough to warrant it.
It would also require at least one new rubber cushion ring (at the interior).


Either way works.
It's the OP's call.
 
What is the possibility that this head is usable if I replace that valve seat??? IMG_0849.jpg

ETA At least now I know what happened... There were pieces of that seat in the intake also.
 
So, if I wanted to take the whole thing out so I can work on the bearings on the bench... I put the f/w housing bolts back on, what do I need to disconnect to take the whole thing out? The boat is shrink wrapped right now, so I can't see. I know I will need a rubber ring or 2. but would like to know the process. Where does it need to come apart? I would just like to know what I'm in for. Pictures would help... BTW, I was making a joke about the head.
 
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So, if I wanted to take the whole thing out so I can work on the bearings on the bench... I put the f/w housing bolts back on,
Why?
If you want to pull the engine w/o the F/C attached to it, pull the engine by itself.
You can then remove the F/C from the transom shield.


what do I need to disconnect to take the whole thing out? The boat is shrink wrapped right now, so I can't see. I know I will need a rubber ring or 2. but would like to know the process. Where does it need to come apart? I would just like to know what I'm in for. Pictures would help...
You will need to:

Remove the transmission.
Remove the 6 clamping ring bolts.
You will see the 3 jack thread holes (the locking plates cover them up)
Next, clean these threads out and lubricate them.
Run clean bolts into each jack thread hole.
Tighten them equally, one turn at a time, and the clamping ring should back itself out.

If it does not, post back for more info.

s-l640.jpg



BTW, I was making a joke about the head.
We figured so.



NOTES:

..... the 2 rubber cushion rings provide the rear engine isolation... i.e., engine mount.

..... the inner cushion ring provides the water seal between the F/C and the transom shield.

..... the rubber cushion rings will have taken a "set" by now, which means that the front ring should be new.

..... there is also an alignment (involves a triangulation procedure) that should be checked when going back together.


Example.... yours will look slightly different.
Triangulation engine alignment.jpg
 
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SKF and/or Japanese are good. (I steer clear of the fried rice and BBQ'd pork bearings)

The seals that I use are either a TCM or a Timken....... fully rubber encapsulated.

9k=


s-l300.jpg
 
Okay, so I've been pricing out marine engines. I've read a lot about how full dished pistons suck. But it seems all new GM marine engines come standard with them. How can I find a marine engine with d dished pistons? I wanted new, but can is there a reputable rebuilder that uses the d dished?

Thanks,
Richard
 
...............
Okay, so I've been pricing out marine engines. I've read a lot about how full dished pistons suck.
Just to be clear, the GM F/D piston (especially in the Marine SBC) creates a place for the flame front to hide during combustion.
This can and will cause "detonation" under the right conditions.


But it seems all new GM marine engines come standard with them.
In the Marine build, yes!
As I've said many times..... the GM engineers would like to use the proper pistons in this SBC Marine version. However, the bean counters won!

With the GM F/D pistons, one part number fits all 8 bores.
The guys installing the pistons/rods combo can be drinking a cocktail or smoking pot while doing so.
The guys installing the pistons/rods into the cylinder block can also be drinking a cocktail or smoking pot while doing so.


How can I find a marine engine with d dished pistons?
If you mean a factory GM:
......with a D dished piston, you'd need to purchase a GM SBC in a Pre-Vortec higher performance engine, perhaps Corvette or Camero or similar.
......with a LCQ piston, you'd need to purchase a GM SBC in the Vortec version, and again in the higher performance engine,
perhaps Corvette or Camero or similar.
However, the static compression ratio in either build will be too high for Marine use.


I wanted new, but is there a reputable rebuilder that uses the d dished?
You can find reputable engine builders that can do a proper Marine build for you.
Keep in mind that:
..... the D dished piston would be used underneath the Pre-Vortec cylinder heads.
..... the LCQ (low compression quench) style piston would be used underneath the Vortec cylinder heads.
The dish volume (of which will be selected) with either piston will determine your S C/R.
If you go with valve reliefs that match the valve diameters, you will need 4 part numbers.
The guys installing these pistons cannot be drinking or smoking pot!

The target will be a quench dimension of approx .038" for a 5.7L build, and approx .045" for a 6.2L or 6.3L build. (higher for HP Street use)
The Marine quench dimension will be less than that of the HP Auto build!

NOTE: the only things that require special attention will be:

... the piston's dish volume as per bore/stroke and combustion chamber volume.
... the piston orientation in each bore.
... the piston deck height.
....the compressed head gasket thickness.

Nothing else to the build needs to be changed.

Depending on the piston material (cast aluminum, hypereutectic or forged) the added cost should not exceed several hundred dollars.



When the very first SBC (265 cu in) was introduced in 1955, the pistons offered a Quench Effect.
The engineers did not need to fight with the Bean Counters.


In the early 70s, GM needed to lower exhaust emissions, hence the GM F/D pistons. They were OK in cars/trucks.

That F/D piston (for the average build) remains today in spite of the engineers not agreeing with it's use for the Marine SBC engine.







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