Crusader 8.1 - install issues/punch list

I have both engines installed now and have run both. I wanted to do a few test runs before winterizing but a couple of cold forecasted nights "forced" me to winterize yesterday. I probably jumped the gun and they would have been ok. Anyway, I have a few start up issues which I really didn't want to carry into the spring. I suppose I could remove the impellors and do some quick test runs if I wanted. Here's what I've got if anyone has any thoughts:

After buying 3/8" fuel line, it turns out the connection on the fuel cooler is in fact 1/2" which Crusader calls for in the install guide. At the moment, my fuel setup is exactly the same as it was for the 454's with the exception of this new line.

fuel tank (3/8" aeroquip)------>30 micron screen------>10 micron Racor. Out of Racor, 1/2" fuel line home run to fuel pump/cooler.

1) Port engine. Upon initial startup, I had three low voltage codes and a CEL. I cleared the codes and now have run 2x but the CEL is still illuminated and no codes using Rinda scanner. This engine ran within the past week and so I expected it to instantly fire up but it was really hard to start. It probably took 8 tries and me hitting the throttle before it idled ok and I winterized. The exhaust also "popped" a few times as I was trying to start it. That compression sound which is hard to describe. That's bugging me.

2) Starboard engine. This one was also not an instant start but easier than the port engine. On this one, I have no tach but all other gauges work. Tach was working on last run a few weeks ago with old engines. Weird coincidence, but the tach I had @ home also stopped working at some point but I can't recall if it was the this engine, port or both. I had long gaps between running at home and lost track.

It seems like both engines needed more fuel but it was my wife at the helm starting and me working the throttle at the engine, cables not connected. I mention my fuel line setup above in case that sparks anything. From memory, I think they were pretty much touch the IGN and they were running at home. I have the factory anti siphon valve(s) on each fuel tank. Should these be different for a FI engine?

Mark, did you mention that to me before?


thanks
Bob

Bob:

nothing is popping out of my memory.

I've seen a few EFI setups where the story was the anti-syphon valve was causing issues and they used the electric solenoid valves instead. you can monitor the pressure drop at the fuel cooler and see if that's a concern but you'll need to have the engine under load for an accurate assessment.

On the CEL - maybe it's tied to the harness mod?? if you can, I'd swap the sub panel connections between the engines and see if the issue stays with the panel...

On the hard start, if it was the first time, it could have been the fuel system being dry. you should be able to cycle the key to get the fuel pump to prime the rail...and use a gauge to monitor the pressure in the rail...until it gets over 40 or so, there's no reason to crank the engine. Also, with the EFIs, there should be no reason to do anything with the throttles when starting...just leave them on the idle stop...

Mark,

I’ve also read about the anti siphon valves as well with EFI
setup. I’m really suspecting that is the issue but will try and verify with a gauge but obviously limited on the hard. I’m going to take advantage of the summer weather up here and do some troubleshooting.

thanks


QUOTE=makomark;701284]Bob:

nothing is popping out of my memory.

I've seen a few EFI setups where the story was the anti-syphon valve was causing issues and they used the electric solenoid valves instead. you can monitor the pressure drop at the fuel cooler and see if that's a concern but you'll need to have the engine under load for an accurate assessment.

On the CEL - maybe it's tied to the harness mod?? if you can, I'd swap the sub panel connections between the engines and see if the issue stays with the panel...

On the hard start, if it was the first time, it could have been the fuel system being dry. you should be able to cycle the key to get the fuel pump to prime the rail...and use a gauge to monitor the pressure in the rail...until it gets over 40 or so, there's no reason to crank the engine. Also, with the EFIs, there should be no reason to do anything with the throttles when starting...just leave them on the idle stop...[/QUOTE]

Quick update to tie out this thread. I'm still working through some growing pains in having very "early" 8.1's and discovering some differences between the pair of engines I bought. One is the cam position sensor. Basically, there are multiple versions of the Cam sensors depending on the gear set that was installed @ the factory. Mine are in fact different and I was trying an aftermarket one on the port engine which was causing the hard start issue.

For now, I don't think I have any fuel related issues at least related to starting and idling. Under power will be a different story but that's 6 mos away. Once I swapped the old CPS back in the port engine fired up right away and the Stb did as well. I must not have waited long enough on the Stb side for the fuel pump to prime so that seems to fire up right away as well. I need to find an ECM to fix my tach issue and still have the CEL but no code issue on the other engine.

bobct said:

Mark,

I’ve also read about the anti siphon valves as well with EFI
setup. I’m really suspecting that is the issue but will try and verify with a gauge but obviously limited on the hard. I’m going to take advantage of the summer weather up here and do some troubleshooting.

thanks


QUOTE=makomark;701284]Bob:

nothing is popping out of my memory.

I've seen a few EFI setups where the story was the anti-syphon valve was causing issues and they used the electric solenoid valves instead. you can monitor the pressure drop at the fuel cooler and see if that's a concern but you'll need to have the engine under load for an accurate assessment.

On the CEL - maybe it's tied to the harness mod?? if you can, I'd swap the sub panel connections between the engines and see if the issue stays with the panel...

On the hard start, if it was the first time, it could have been the fuel system being dry. you should be able to cycle the key to get the fuel pump to prime the rail...and use a gauge to monitor the pressure in the rail...until it gets over 40 or so, there's no reason to crank the engine. Also, with the EFIs, there should be no reason to do anything with the throttles when starting...just leave them on the idle stop...

Click to expand...

[/QUOTE]

totally agree