Factory wasn't an option... actually had to drill out the old key... I'm pretty good with fabricating... the new one fits prefect... everything lines up, tapers are tight...
As Racerone states in not so many words... the tapers must be perfectly clean and dry, BUT.................
You say "factory wasn't an option" suggesting that in drilling out the old key, you damaged the crankshaft key seat. And if so, in fabricating a similar key, you've changed the timing ever so slightly which would cause the engine to fire out of time.
The factory key... should the face of that key be sheared ever so slightly, that is as if filed away a few thousands so as to let the flywheel turn those few thousands... unfortunately that's enough to keep the engine from running.
A key-way slot drilled out and damaged to a point whereas a makeshift key is required may interfere with the seating of the flywheel whereas it is impossible to torque/seat it properly which would lead to having the makeshift key shear. To check this.......................
Have the key removed... sit the flywheel upon the crankshaft as solidly as possible. Check it for levelness, feel of rocking, etc........
Now, install the key, sit the flywheel on the crankshaft again. Check for levelness etc again.
Normally, that key seat and the key itself must be perfect with the key aligned so that the outside straight edge of the key is vertical with the engine... straight up and down... Not aligned with the crankshaft taper.
If you had the engine running, as I think you suggest with that fabricated key... and that's what sheared, then you're one of the lucky ones... and if you've got the engine popping and have the spark back... luckier yet and I'd think you're required to work on that key so as to get that flywheel seated and torqued to factory specs. Wish'ya luck!
The alternative... new or good used crankshaft, a new factory key... and a lot of work! The flywheel??
