Volvo AQ280 Electric Drive Lift Issues

G-Man24 said:

Hi all. I've been following the forum for some time now to glean more info on my VP AQ280 drive and related service requirements. I'm astounded at the level of expertise found here. I recently joined as a member as I could really use some help on this issue and I'm hoping some of the experts like Rick will chime in . (Please excuse me if I get some of the nomenclature wrong. The little experience I've had with drives in the past was with MerCruiser this is the first VP I've owned or worked on.

For some background this is a 1978 Donzi 18 ft (2+3) with a Ford 351W Commander/ AQ280 package.
How many of these black rubber hooks exit the lower area of the transom shield?
One or two?

If only one, you have a easily obtainable transom shield.
If two, you have a rather difficult to find transom shield.



When I first got the boat I replaced the U-Joints & bellows by removing the upper drive gear unit . While working on it I happened to notice the lift's round foot (pressure plate) was contacting the thrust sleeve/release rod at a location that was far off center. I thought maybe that was normal and it centered itself better as the drive lifted and since it all worked fine for most of the season I didn't give it much thought. Now however I have run into a serious problem. While running in shallow water last weekend I could feel the boat running aground and tried to operate the lift to no avail. Would not move up or down.
First off, this unit is a lift out unit only and is to be used to raise the drive when trailering, etc.
Only upon rare occasions would it be used to raise the drive when in shallow water, and only under very low engine power.

When I pulled the boat out on the ramp I realized the latch was not releasing even though the drive was all the way down. I managed to release it using a screwdriver and after lifting slightly I could see where the thrust sleeve and ridden completely off the pressure plate and was trapped behind it. Further examination showed the lift had a bent shaft (that is the vice rod) and worse now had developed a crack in the housing (transom plate? ) where the lift shaft exits. (see photo 4)
Yes, very typical when used as a trim unit during powering-up.

I managed to unscrew the distorted pressure pad and remove the lift mechanism. The end of the housing where the sealing nut threads on is cracked off. I have not completely disassembled it yet but at this point I'm looking at a new housing, new shaft and pressure plate at the very minimum. I can deal with all that.
If interested, I have complete (minus the electric motor) units available.

My biggest concern though is the crack in the transom plate. This boat is all original and in beautiful condition so the prospect of pulling the motor or having to tear all the running gear off the transom to fix that crack has me freaking out a bit.
Unfortunately, there is no other option..... unless you abandon the lift out unit and block off the opening.

If I clear enough room by removing the upper drive/ helmet, etc. I think it would be accessible enough for a good welder to reach in and tig the crack shut. Does this sound like a workable idea ?
The bore would need to be in near pristine condition in order for the outer O-ring to form a good seal.
I suppose that you could give it a try........ but I doubt that it's worth it when you can pick up a good clean single relief transom shield for very little.

If so should I attempt to push the crack closed before welding or fill it in the way it is ? I'm guessing if I don't push it back the O-ring on the sealing nut may not seal as the bottom of the bore will no longer be perfectly round.
correct!

Looking forward to your replies and suggestions.

Gerry

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G-Man24 said:

Rick thanks so much for the informative reply.
You are very welcome.


A couple other questions....If all parts are functioning and aligned normally, should the thrust sleeve contact the pressure plate exactly in the center when the drive is in the lowered position?
If not exactly, it should be close.

Second...is it possible to swap out the transom shield without removing the engine if you support it somehow ?
Short answer...... Yes.

I cannot find any of the black rubber hooks you referred to. Are they all the way on the bottom by the zinc block ? I have attached some additional photos to maybe help identify it.
I see from your photos that your transom shield is a single exhaust relief unit, and that the relief was not used.
You most likely have thru-transom exhaust!
If so, this means that a 4 cylinder transom shield could be used.
Fortunately, those are not in demand and should be inexpensive to buy.

FYI....
The 4 cylinder 280 and 275 shields use the collar steering fork with the large diameter shaft and also use the larger rubber bumper.
The 270 and earlier use the collar steering fork with the small diameter shaft and use the small rubber bumper.

Use caution.... not all sellers accurately describe their Volvo Penta parts, often using the wrong names or model numbers.

If you replace it, be sure to also replace the large inner rubber cushion ring. The inner ring provides the water seal.
Also replace the 6 fat O-rings that seal the carriage bolt shanks.

Tip:
When you remove the drive, remove the transmission first, then the suspension fork hinge pins and the remaining portion.
When going back together, do the reverse of that.

If you are running an s/p drive, use 30W engine oil for gear lube.
If you are running a DP drive, use the correct GL-5 for gear lube.


Let me know if you have any interest in that Lift-Out unit that I have.

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G-Man24 said:

Yes on the thru-hull exhaust, large diameter steering fork shaft and large rubber bumper. I'm familiar with removing the transmission/upper gear case first as I followed your old posts and used that method when replacing my universal shaft bearing crosses and the bellows.

Have you replace the PDS bearings yet?
If not, and if you replace the transom shield, it would be a great time to do it.

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RicardoMarine said:

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RicardoMarine said:

.Have you replace the PDS bearings yet?
If not, and if you replace the transom shield, it would be a great time to do it.

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sandkicker said:

Likely the PDS is the Holman-Moody extended style and the issue of open vs sealed bearings and lube fitting may apply...

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G-Man24 said:

Well based on what I see in your post Rick it looks like I have the extended adaptor housing with the double bearing.
It's the extended unit alright........., but you won't know about the single vs double bearings until you disassemble it.

NO grease port or zirk fitting.
Typically, the absence of the grease port indicates a PDS with a single sealed bearing.
If you have a double bearing PDS, then both would need to be sealed bearings.

The flywheel cover is approx. 3" deep
That is a Ford 335 series Borg Warner pattern flywheel cover.

and the adaptor housing is another 4" to where the Volvo housing begins. (See pics)
Do you mean another 4" to the transom shield?

Drat! I did not want to deal with the double bearing if it requires backing up the engine or removing it.
Any chance they will both come out from the aft side ?
Slim chance!
The FWD bearing is a friction fit to the PDS. It is also a mild friction fit within the bore of the flywheel cover.
The FWD bearing is last to be installed.
It is then secured in the F/C by a snap ring.

Let's say that you could pull the PDS out AFT without removing the engine.
You can change the AFT bearing, but now you have no way to change out the FWD bearing.

On the positive side, thanks to Rick I have a replacement lift assembly on the way. I really appreciate all the help he's been giving me.

Thanks also to Capt. Bob for the input. This forum is a great resource of knowledge.

Gerry

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