New to Forum. Restoring 73 Sportwin 9.5

Hello all. New to this forum. Looks to be a lot of great info on the board, I look forward to learning and sharing.

My current project is a '73 9.5 Evinrude. Seems to have a few issues. Might have gotten in a little too deep this time. My current problem is a broken bolt in the lower unit. I was dropping the gearcase to replace the water-pump and check seals/lube/ etc. and one of the bolts sheared off. The cap broke off pretty cleanly, but left most of the hole in the lower unit filled with corroded bolt, so I'm unable to separate the lower unit. I just dealt with the same thing with one of the cylinder head bolts, but I had access to drill it out with LH drills. No luck here due to the anti-cavitation plate blocking drill access. Anyone dealt with this that could provide advice? I'm currently soaking several times a day with PB-Blaster, and heating up the lower case with a propane torch to see if expansion could draw more of the Blaster in.

This project is likely a long one, and I'm sure I'll reach out for more along the way. Some of the known issues are:

1. throttle is frozen. Not sure if it's in the handle, gear, or where.
2. Lots of white caked powder in the water passaged in the head, it was completely blocked. Mostly easy to scrape out but some hard sections. I'm sure this was a salt water motor that appears to not have been taken care of.
3. Water in the gear oil when I drained it. At least it held oil. I'm sure seals will take care of this one.
4. Fuel pump needs replacing. Can't find OEM. Would a more modern 9.9 pump work? I see some on Amazon and comments that they fit '65 9.5 motors, so might work on mine.


I really wish I had checked compression before I started disassembly, but one of the plug holes was stripped (helicoil will fix) and i had to remove the head anyway to repair that. I'll probably put that back on and check compression before I go further.

Thanks for reading.
Shinola.

I would not buy any parts for it until you make sure the lower unit is good. I would also make sure there are no exhaust leaks they are notorious for that and they are expensive. I would find a better motor.

From the description I say set it aside.----Use it for parts.------In my area you can find better motors than that example.---Often for $50 or less.

I get that I might be upside down on the value here, but I have another motive. I have a 1957 Fastwin 18 in my garage that I want to fully restore mechanically and cosmetically. I'm pretty handy, but not a pro with these old motors, so this is a learning experience. In my area (Brevard County Florida) a working motor, (seemingly at any age) is ~$75-$100 per HP. This motor will be a learning experience for me and my 14 yo son, so I'm up for the challenge. And I'll try not to sink too much $$ into it until I'm convinced I can get it running.

Any advice on how to getting past the broken bolt? I'll try to attach 2 images.View attachment 25178View attachment 25179

I know this will raise some eyebrows, but here goes anyway. I made a ''tool" just for jobs like that. Using a cold chisel, grind the sides off till it resembles a knife blade. Then drive it into the junction where the two castings meet to wedge the gearcase off the broken bolt. Yeah, it might leak but anything that does leak out was headed back to the sea anyway.

Also in FL.

Just a comment--you say you are in it for a learning experience. Well you sure picked a dandy for that. A 57 year old salt-water 9.5 is going to be an experience, for sure.

47 years I think, 1 year younger than me. And yes, it's an old one. But my goal is even older. I also have worked on (not finished) a '68 1.5 hp mate, I have a working '76 2hp in the edge of one of the pictures above, and a mid '80's Johnson 6.0. All are fun, and I love the smell of 2 stroke oil.

thanks fdrgator!! a sharp wood chisel worked perfectly as a stand in for your recommendation above. And by the looks of it, it didn't do any significant damage to either casting.

These salt water motors can severely challenge even seasoned outboard mechanics. Personally I agree with everyone who has responded here. There are plenty of these little 9.5's around. Might look for a freshwater patient and first make sure compression is adequate with a lower unit that is not likely rusty inside. You should split gearcase to take a look and then you will know how to move forward. Do that compression test too. I can send you a good head for $20 bucks plus shipping if you want to move on with this 1973 motor.

If that particular motor had been in the family since new, or other sentimental value, I might go for it, I too like to tinker, but in this case I have to agree with Racer.
just dowsing through the ads within an hour or two drive of my lake house, I find 6 vintage outboards.
These are all freshwater kickers, & all say running.
ive converted to US$ from Canadian ask price.
1948 Champion 7.9 $120
1979 Evinrude 9.9 ran this year, lost compression $150
1969 9.5 Johnson Sporttwin starts & runs well $300 firm.
I don’t know what year these “turtle” motors are, multiply by .63 to get US$. You would have a much better end project, for way less money.
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-powerboat-motorboat/barrie/johnson-9-5-running/1524376870

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-powerboat-motorboat/guelph/evinrude-9-5-outboard/1526361757

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-powerboat-motorboat/barrie/9-5-hp-johnson-outboard/1527946121

The above three are all new enough to have the vibration dampers feature. That's good.

I installed quite a few of the vibration damper kits on the 64 / 65 models in the late 1960's.----In the one ad a 1968 model is listed as a 1980 and that is fairly typical in " online " ads.

And for about $150 USD, it’s a better project than what the OP is dealing with.

Ontario is a bit far to compare to FL options. I appreciate the inputs though. It turns out I think I was more pessimistic than I should have been. I picked this one up (as-described condition) from craigslist locally for $100. If it it was salt, it must have been brief, the lower unit is apart now and appears rust-free. I'm still trying to figure out why the throttle is stuck, but I bet I'll get through that. Next challenge is the carb re-build. Looks very clean, but I'll get deep into that this weekend likely.

thanks-all.

timguy, I'll take that head, please let me know what shipping is estimated at. I tried a PM, but your mailbox is full

While I'm thinking of it. Is there an updated source for the seal material for the motor cover? I've looked a bit at Mcmaster Carr, but haven't seen the same cross section as what appears on the motor.

thanks.

Guy in Ontario has cowl seal material.-----Available in white or black.----try----nymarine decals----In your google search.

Okay will head to post office tomorrow. Will empty my messages too.
Later: Okay I erased a bunch of messages.

timguy, PM sent.

thanks.

Okay got it.

shinola said:

Ontario is a bit far to compare to FL options. I appreciate the inputs though. It turns out I think I was more pessimistic than I should have been. I picked this one up (as-described condition) from craigslist locally for $100. If it it was salt, it must have been brief, the lower unit is apart now and appears rust-free. I'm still trying to figure out why the throttle is stuck, but I bet I'll get through that. Next challenge is the carb re-build. Looks very clean, but I'll get deep into that this weekend likely.

thanks-all.

Click to expand...

Check the idle speed set knob (where the tiller hinges up). If set too high, you can't move the throttle while in neutral gear. If that is the problem, simply back it off.

Carbs are so easy to clean on these, it's ridiculous. Sometimes floats get messed up.....they are hard to find. Got a couple extras here.