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86 Merc 50 hp 2 stroke - mixture adjustment doesn't sputter engine

rcortesim

New member
Hello everyone!

I'm back again with another question about my '86 50hp 2-stroke Merc. All of you were very helpful the last time I posted my problem, and things I did had positive results, but it's a work in progress, so maybe someone can shed some light on this new issue.

Recalling my last post, I had an intermittent problem keeping the engine from stalling out, when I put it in gear. So, I tied it to the dock and when I was able to keep it going, I put it in gear. I adjusted the mixture screws, and that's when I noticed that the bottom carb didn't affect the running of the engine at all.


This engine has 3 cylinders, but only two carbs. I'm not sure why that is, nor which cylinders are fed by only one carb, but here's the rub. When I adjusted the top carb, I could easily find the sweet spot between too rich and too lean. However, when I adjusted the bottom carb, the engine didn't sputter in either direction, so I just left it at 1 1/2 turns out.


This worked ok for a couple of fishing trips, but not without some compromises. In order to get the engine to run in gear, the idle had to be set at about 1200 rpm. It was cold starting just fine, and no problem when I put it in gear. Now, after a few trips to the lake, it has reverted to its old ways and is sputtering. It is sometimes sounding like it's not running on all cylinders, while other times, it is perfectly smooth. One minute, I'll have a hard time keeping it running at a slow trolling speed, then the next minute, it will be just fine.


Spark plugs are fine, wires tested good and compression is solid.
My intuition tells me it has something to do with the bottom carb that didn't even make the engine sputter when mixture was adjusted, but I've talked with the mechanic that worked it last spring, and he confirmed that he rebuilt the carbs.


I'm hoping someone here might have had a similar experience and can share their solution.


Thanks in advance!
 
Top carburetor feeds #1 cylinder and 1/2 for #2----Lower carburetor feeds #3 and the other 1/2 for #2 cylinder.----Do a compression test and a spark check first.
 
Top carburetor feeds #1 cylinder and 1/2 for #2----Lower carburetor feeds #3 and the other 1/2 for #2 cylinder.----Do a compression test and a spark check first.

That’s very interesting and must be a headache to sync the mixture distributed to the #2 cylinder. What were they thinking?! Hahaha
Plugs and compression have already been checked twice by different mechanics, but no trouble checking again. Thanks.
 
???---I believe they designed that motor in a hurry to compete with the popular 3 cylinder OMC models.----Remember that 1970 was a different era than the outboard scene today.-----Find a better mechanic.
 
No early Merc triple ever made idled decently, and they have massive bogging issues. (I should know for I spent years messing with these damn things.) I have a bunch of thoughts on WHY that's the case, but little insight in how to correct it. Sorry.

The best advice I can give you is this: With the motor warmed up and on the trailer and in gear, adjust idle mixture screws for the best idle you can get, then add 1/4 to 1/2 turn OUT to each.

I've also had luck doing this in a DEEP barrel, using an infrared temp gun on the plug metal bases. Get them all the same temperature (around 100 degrees).

Jeff

PS: If your top cylinder is 20 to 30 psi lower than the others in a compression test, you're wasting your time with this motor.
 
Thanks guys, I appreciate your feedback!

I've previously adjusted the idle mixture, checked the plugs (engine studders when each is disconnected separately) and compression was checked by two mechanics. However, I didn't get the specific numbers on each cylinder, so I'll have to see if the top is 20 - 30 psi lower than the others.

I'd love to afford a newer 4-stroke, but it's just not in the budget right now. It would likely be more cost effective to buy a newer boat that has a solid engine, but that would mean giving up my '86 Whaler, and I'd hate to do that. Even though it's beam is narrow, and you have to hold on when another boat's wake rolls by, I love this hull and would not give it up easily.

Thanks again for sharing your thoughts!
 
If this helps. Just diagnosed a 3 cylinder merc 70hp. Same kind of problem. Bottom carb was not responding well.. engine ran like it has a slight miss. Thought it was a switch box. Turned out to be a broken reed valve in the bottom cylinder.
 
If this helps. Just diagnosed a 3 cylinder merc 70hp. Same kind of problem. Bottom carb was not responding well.. engine ran like it has a slight miss. Thought it was a switch box. Turned out to be a broken reed valve in the bottom cylinder.

Thanks mechanicman! Did the compression test good on the bottom cylinder? I've always had the understanding that compression drops with a broken/damaged reed valve.
 
Sorry-----Reed valves have nothing to do with compression in the cylinders !!-------When piston comes up and closes the exhaust ports the compression starts.-----The reed valves actually start to open up to let fresh mixture into the crankcase at that point.------An understanding of the finer details of a 2 stroke engine will help you with your trouble shooting.
 
Sorry-----Reed valves have nothing to do with compression in the cylinders !!-------When piston comes up and closes the exhaust ports the compression starts.-----The reed valves actually start to open up to let fresh mixture into the crankcase at that point.------An understanding of the finer details of a 2 stroke engine will help you with your trouble shooting.

Thanks for clarifying that. It seems 2-stroke engines are quite a hassle to maintain. I even had one tell me that he didn't want to work on it.
 
When compression in the cylinder starts , the reed valves in the separate crankcase start to open.----And 2 strokes are simple to maintain if you know how they work.------Many shops do not work on older motors as it is not a guaranteed money maker !!
 
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