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200 Yamaha I'm stumped

Jmike

New member
I've got a 1998 Yamaha 200 hp 2 stroke. Runs like a banshee on muffs but in lake it will idle around good but sounds like it kills cylinders under load only runs good to about 2800 rpm. Won't plane out. It is currently in the shop and they have replaced CDI pulser coil and crank sensor.still same issues. Cleaned carbs new filters plugs and fuel lines. Same issues. Any ideas? Thanks
 
Did this problem show up suddenly ?----They all run fantastic on a hose.----Even in gear it is still neutral as the prop does not have to work waving at the air.----Do a compression test, post your numbers.----Test for spark that jumps a gap of 3/8" ( 1 cm ) or more on al leads.-----Inspect flywheel key while you are at it.
 
Did this problem show up suddenly ?----They all run fantastic on a hose.----Even in gear it is still neutral as the prop does not have to work waving at the air.----Do a compression test, post your numbers.----Test for spark that jumps a gap of 3/8" ( 1 cm ) or more on al leads.-----Inspect flywheel key while you are at it.

I bought boat this way. Compression was checked all cylinders were 120 or 119. Will be going to get it from shop tomorrow as they say they don't know what else to try. I will check spark then. Thanks
 
90% of OB issues are fuel system related....so that's where you start troubleshooting, moving through each fuel related part until you either find the issue or rule out the fuel system being the issue. Sounds like you've skipped ahead, addressing the other 2 systems...spark and compression....but that's ok. I'd move focus back to fuel system. When you cleaned carbs did this include pulling all 3, pulling jets and clearing jets, verifying spec float height, etc??...then time/sync each carb after reinstall?? What's the primer bulb doing as you throttle up and lose power...full and tight or collapsed?
 
Bubble stays firm new fuel lines everything I can think of fuel related. Mechanic did the carbs so not real sure about that. Is there a possibility that the motor is in rpm reduction mode? I'm not 100 percent sure but I think the alarm may not work. I pulled the kill switch and keyed in no alarm. The way it starts and runs up to around 2800 rpm makes me wonder if it isn't something simple just overlooked
 
Chasing wires today and my alarm made a little noise narrowed it down and the alarm is going off full time when I fix the broken wire. Means safe mode from what I've read. Alarm on with key on engine off. Maybe this will help with diagnosis. Again thanks for help
 
Limp mode doesn’t sputter, as your describing. Violent shake at 2K rpm. Alarm when key turned to ON means low battery volts. It could also mean low oil. Easier to rule out low battery first. If u read >12.75v at the terminal and the same at ignition switch then your good. Then check oil level. If above low mark, volt drop test the oil sensors...start with grounds.
 
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