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HELP MAYDAY TOTALY GREEN Scallywag !

boatben

Member
Well I did it , went and took on another project ! My dillema...I will try to be brief and not add too much comedy , but get yer laffs on me for now, cause I will! I bought a 1978 Hydro-Swift 22' ? with a chevy 350,? 305 ? believe its the 5.7 ! and what I ASS u ME is a OMC .STERNDRIVE ? this is how green I am , I am a 4 wheel hot rodder , and fairly handy with a wrench landlubber , but when it comes to boats I know Jack $hit! I dont even know the difference between Sterndrive ,and overdrive ? etc however Ive learned port side ,starbord side ,bow and stern and " Swabb the deck Scallawag '
The boat appears to only have 150 hours on it , and it was DIRT cheap with trailer , really looks good and clean overall Problem 1.] I can barely find any info on the manufacturer and I need some kind of manual ? 2.] it appears someone tried to replace the starter with a chevy car starter . WRONG! Im trying to order a starter but Im in a quandry , on where and what , Im Assuming I need one for an OMC outdrive /sterndrive so as to adapt to the OMC ? bell housing on the drive unit it sez " Outboard Marine " is that the logo for OMC ? 3.] on the manifold is an old school ceramic ballast resistor ,its all crusty and I supplied power to it and it got HOT AS HADES ! , are there any specific specs I need to look for on a replacement ,or will your basic automotive ballast resistor work ? 4.] how can I I.D. said OMC ? sterndrive ? 5.] On the Right side ,starbord? side above the starter isare two cylindrical looking pieces that all the wires converge into ? what is this ,some sort of waterproof junction block ? SORRY FOLX ,for being so green , and I'm sure I will have a " boatload " [pun intended} more questions ,but for now , thats it Thanxz in advance BOATBEN
 
Pictures posted SOS

Well I did it , went and took on another project ! My dillema...I will try to be brief and not add too much comedy , but get yer laffs on me for now, cause I will! I bought a 1978 Hydro-Swift 22' ? with a chevy 350,? 305 ? believe its the 5.7 ! and what I ASS u ME is a OMC .STERNDRIVE ? this is how green I am , I am a 4 wheel hot rodder , and fairly handy with a wrench landlubber , but when it comes to boats I know Jack $hit! I dont even know the difference between Sterndrive ,and overdrive ? etc however Ive learned port side ,starbord side ,bow and stern and " Swabb the deck Scallawag '
The boat appears to only have 150 hours on it , and it was DIRT cheap with trailer , really looks good and clean overall Problem 1.] I can barely find any info on the manufacturer and I need some kind of manual ? 2.] it appears someone tried to replace the starter with a chevy car starter . WRONG! Im trying to order a starter but Im in a quandry , on where and what , Im Assuming I need one for an OMC outdrive /sterndrive so as to adapt to the OMC ? bell housing on the drive unit it sez " Outboard Marine " is that the logo for OMC ? 3.] on the manifold is an old school ceramic ballast resistor ,its all crusty and I supplied power to it and it got HOT AS HADES ! , are there any specific specs I need to look for on a replacement ,or will your basic automotive ballast resistor work ? 4.] how can I I.D. said OMC ? sterndrive ? 5.] On the Right side ,starbord? side above the starter isare two cylindrical looking pieces that all the wires converge into ? what is this ,some sort of waterproof junction block ? SORRY FOLX ,for being so green , and I'm sure I will have a " boatload " [pun intended} more questions ,but for now , thats it Thanxz in advance BOATBEN

Here are some pics ,and one new question ...On the throttle control where it has the red start broken plastic piece ,again I assume I pull that in direction of arrow , place t handle in neutral and crank engine ? is this correct ?
 

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Yes, that is the warm up lever. Mine broke as well. Push forward for a cold start, bring back down as it warms (assuming it's the same as the one for my old Johnson outboard). Dealt with it broken for years. Parts for that control box are hard to come by. Might try ebay for that.
Nice looking boat. Love the old ones.
 
Here is the Sterndrive , so obviously this is an inboard engine setup , but does that automatically make it a Sterndrive ? darn , I feel my greenness ! But in todays world green is good ...NO ? !
 

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I do not believe it is a 78 model.------It is electric shift.----You would want to do a complete evaluation of this boat and motor before spending a lot of money on it.
 
serial # 221 930 7 , I found a for sale sign in boat that sez 1978 Hydro swift for sale ... I am not in this boat that far $ wise ,so i have room to play , I have looked it over as a novice and it looks solid , i bought the whole thing for 200 bux , the tires n rims are worth that !!!!!
 
Thanks Jay, apparently some of the replys are going to my spam , thanks for the positive vibe on the boat , it is in nice shape Hull looks good ,engine looks imaculate , gonna retrofit the fuel tanks etc , So is that an OMC sterndrive ? and do you know what type of starter to buy ? I'm gonna update the distributor to get rid of points and ballast resistor free coil etc ...What about the wiring junction cylinder looking things pictured ? Also any more suggestions , thanks again Ben
 
Ben, I see two potential scenarios:


1.... you absolutely love this boat because your dad or grandfather owned one when you were young.
You are willing to do what ever required to breathe life back into it, and you do not mind being in the red and/or way over budget!

2.... you made a quick decision that you now feel was a bad one, in which case you are starting to feel like you should cut your losses now!


If #1, tear that OMC equipment out of there.
Infill the transom and install an AQ series Volvo Penta 1.61:1 s/p drive and a good fresh SBC built to marine specs.
 
Rick ...Serioualy , throw out a near perfect small block ? i'm green but .not a sapling ! replacing the outdrive is do able ,I think , i'm in this boat 200 .00 thats two hundred dollars ,i've urinated more money down the toilet after a bad nite at the bar , I have ZERO remorse ,heck I will cut the trailer up and use it to haul hay ,and be ahead of the game . Once I get an Idea at what i need to do ,I can and WILL do the work , no need to pay anyone , except maybe to do final inspections on critical repairs etc . i will add this to my fleet of vintage crafts that i maintain /build mostly by myself like 2 1970 GTO's 1 rag , 1 hardtop Judge clone , 2 Mercedes 300sd turbo deisels , honda trail 90's et al ...I dont care too much for new Chinese junk parts overpriced and freshly painted replacements
 
#1 Was this boat run in salt , fresh or brackish water???/
#2 What are winters like where this boat lived???

Based on your responses, your "near perfect small block" may end up anywhere from a candidate for a restoration to.... possible scrap.

ALL boats require Marine starters.... See if you can find any info on the engine...i.e. model or S/N

See...http://www.marineengine.com/parts/omc-parts/index.php
 
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...engine looks imaculate ...

That's not one of the adjectives I'd use....even without the duct tape....

The cylinder looking thing is the connector that joins the harness going to the instrument panel to the engine harness...and looking at the unsealed crimp connectors and the electrical tape, its been hacked up pretty good...

It also appears to have a 'crab cap' on the distributor...these are much newer than the vintage of the boat...and typically don't have points or condensors under them...

And it raw water cooled so Capt Bob's questions are key to the decision to pursue or fetch hay with the trailer....just my 2₵...
 
Boat was never run in salt , the hour meter has 151 hours on it , hull looks good . Summers are short here , so its possible it wasnt run much . I under no circumstances tried to imply perfect , and the peripherals like dist cap etc. , are gonna be replaced with electronic ignition. So begging the Captains pardon here . Im fully aware that this can go either way .The sun is brutal ,as are the winters at 7000 ft, so some of the wiring will need repair. I'm glad everyone gets to throw in their 2 cents , but I was hoping to hear more replies concerning parts I.d. and places to purchase spares.My main objective is to get the correct starter on it , replace dist , patch wiring , run compression test , I.D.and check the outdrive . I will do most of the work myself because I enjoy not adding to the landfill, and like American made treasures, and the work is therapy ! However if it appears that it doesnt pan out, I'm not out that much and I've gained an education ! So..no worries first mate ! keep your opinions coming , and hopefully the advice too. Thanxz to All Ben
 
Sorry----You likely won't accept opinions here.----So contact a few boat shops in your state about parts / service / opinions on the OMC STERN DRIVE.----Tell them it is 77 or older model with electric shift.
 
As a matter of fact I'm all for replacing the OMC drive unit , but before doing that Im gonna run the heck out of it as long as it stays together... Don't be sorry it's okay w/ me that you have your opinion. I came here to learn , and I'm okay with being schooled , cause as I said originally ,I know jack $hit about boats ... trust me when I reach the point of cutting my losses ,I will do it ,as needed .Meanwhile I'm gonna give er all I've got Cap'n and have some fun and learn whilst I'm doing it ! Just for the record on the duct tape opinion , it is there to keep the slack in the hoses in check
 
..................
Rick ...Serioualy , throw out a near perfect small block ?
Have you tried starting it up yet?
See if it fires up.
See if if holds water.


It also appears to have a 'crab cap' on the distributor...these are much newer than the vintage of the boat...and typically don't have points or condensors under them...
That appears to be an old Mallory YL kettering system unit (contact points).
If so, the distributor cap alone will run approx $58. And don't be surprised if you have trouble with the cap slipping from position.


And it's raw water cooled so Capt Bob's questions are key to the decision to pursue or fetch hay with the trailer....just my 2₵...
I agree.
Let's not get the hay wagon ahead of the horse.

Boat was never run in salt , the hour meter has 151 hours on it ,
Given the 1978 vintage, it may be possible that either the hour meter quit working, or at/near 151 hours, the boat was laid up for some reason.

keep your opinions coming , and hopefully the advice too.
That's what the forum is all about, and it's why we are here.

Also, consider how your thread title reads: "HELP MAYDAY TOTALY GREEN Scallywag !"

In your case and with this boat, you can already see what the general consensus is.

As a matter of fact I'm all for replacing the OMC drive unit ,
You'd be money ahead if you did.
With the Stringer Drive, the boat's transom does not need to be structural.
It also incorporates a rather large cut-out.
When/if changing from a Stringer Drive to a stern drive, the transom must be infilled and made structural.
This is quite a task for the inexperienced person.

but before doing that Im gonna run the heck out of it as long as it stays together... Don't be sorry it's okay w/ me that you have your opinion. I came here to learn , and I'm okay with being schooled , cause as I said originally , I know jack $hit about boats ...
Understood!

trust me when I reach the point of cutting my losses , I will do it ,as needed.
Proceed with caution.
Educate yourself and make some good decisions before spending your hard earned money on this boat.


Meanwhile I'm gonna give er all I've got Cap'n and have some fun and learn whilst I'm doing it !
Consider that we are trying to spare you from the potential headaches and expense that you are about to encounter.
Unlike yourself, we are experienced and are willing to share that experience with you.
That 1978 OMC Stringer drive is very undesirable.




.
 
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https://hot-spark.com/1-3MAL8U1.htm, or this https://www.marineindustrieswest.com/MalloryElectronicDistributors.htm issue solved ... cap 58.00 not a problem , as I said I'm a green boater ,but I'm a fairly decent hand with a wrench , and super resourceful when it comes to finding what I need. Again ,let me reiterate... Im going to replace the starter , and check the status of the engine with a compression test, and do some basic checks . I'm here for the help , and thank all for the comments and sharing of knowledge. I feel confident I will know when to throw in the towel ,and make the hay trailer , for now i'm going to concentrate on hearing the small block run , so if anyone can suggest the right starter and a killer deal on one ,i would gladly repay you on Tuesday for the information ...Thanxz BB

" How does it feel to be the smartest man in the world ? I dont know ,why dont you ask Nikola Tesla " Albert Einstien
 
Are there serial numbers located on the drive unit , if so where are they located ? i'm assuming I will have to match the starter to this Bellhousing unit ?



" How does it feel to be the smartest man in the world ? I dont know ,why dont you ask Nikola Tesla " Albert Einstien
 
Top of this page a box that says ---engine diagrams-----Just a few clicks to support this website that is helping you understand.-----You need a " marine rated " starter.----Also termed " flame arrested " or " spark arrested ".------Or put parachutes on your boat in case of a fuel leak with a budget starter motor !
 
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Top of this page a box that says ---engine diagrams-----Just a few licks to support this website that is helping you understand.-----You need a " marine rated " starter.----Also termed " flame arrested " or " spark arrested ".------Or put parachutes on your boat in case of a fuel leak with a budget starter motor !

Already told him most of this and despite his repeated asks for parts source he apparently ignored the link I gave him to one of the best parts look ups there is...(hint Post #10)


.... and re: "so some of the wiring will need repair.".... My question about winters had nothing to do with wiring... If engine was not properly winterized after last time it was run, it could have freeze damage, i.e., cracked block,heads and or manifold...ESPECIALLY if engine is raw water cooled.... e.g. a candidate for scrap.
 
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Are there serial numbers located on the drive unit , if so where are they located ? i'm assuming I will have to match the starter to this Bellhousing unit ? Secondly I fully comprehend the starter needs to be marine rated ,to avoid explosions , and thirdly ,if I cant I.D. the unit , there is no sense in putting the hay wagon before the horse ? Lastly I looked thru the index on the engine diagrams before , and i didnt see my model year , whatever that is , I presumed it was 1978 ...right now I really need to positively need to I.d. the anchor...err I mean drive unit so I can order the correct starter , and honestly ,like I said ,I didnt find it yet ? Thanxz agai BB
 
No need to talk third person there Cap'n , I did look thru the diagrams , I get it you want me to do the leg work ,If you read my other post you will see I'm having some dificulty there locating my year /model ... and I'm trying , all the way keeping a decent tone ... I understood your reference to winters and cracked blocks etc , my reply on that mainly adressed the thin ozone level and harsh sun conditions concerning drying /cracking wiring .I't's okay you can speak directly to me I'm an adult w/ minimal need to be coddled ,
 
No need to talk third person there Cap'n , I did look thru the diagrams , I get it you want me to do the leg work ,If you read my other post you will see I'm having some dificulty there locating my year /model ... and I'm trying , all the way keeping a decent tone ... I understood your reference to winters and cracked blocks etc , my reply on that mainly adressed the thin ozone level and harsh sun conditions concerning drying /cracking wiring .I't's okay you can speak directly to me I'm an adult w/ minimal need to be coddled .
 
The only numbers I can locate are on the block 145059 VC5269BR , I still dont even know if this is classified as an OMC manufactured Sterndrive, inboard ,and or where I can locate ID numbers on this unit ? Would anyone like to give a little precise info on where I can find these numbers ,and the nomenclature for the exact drive unit this is Thanxz BB
 
It has already been clearly stated that your OMC STERNDRIVE is not a 78 model .---It is older with electric shift !----You need to accept the fact that it is NOT a 78 model.----And why are the cylinder heads a different colour.----Why is the exhaust manifold a different colour on this " immaculate " engine ???-----Soon you will be on your own if you are slow to learn ----Sorry to be so blunt here.----See post #5 and post #13
 
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ok, it's not a 78- got it. OK it has had some engine work done - got it. Now, how do I ID whats left. Is there any location on this that might assist me on identifying what is there.
 
................ Now, how do I ID whats left. Is there any location on this that might assist me on identifying what is there.

The best we can offer you, would be to take some very good and clear images.
Then start a new thread with a title like; "Please help me identify my OMC Stringer Drive" or similar.
Post your images in the new thread along with your questions.
Perhaps ask for opinions regarding the drive.
.... is this a good drive?
.... are parts available for this drive?
.... what are the problematic areas?
.... would you want to run this drive yourself?
.... what are my alternatives?

Those who are knowledgeable on the older OMCs might chime in.
 
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Thanx, I accept what you have said about the drive being an undesirable component, It's apparent now that the heads and valve covers may be different , perhaps the engine had some issues .I didnt plan on proceeding with this until I verify its condition , and this whole thing may end up as a ' Hay wagon ' and the engine parted out . I will invest a little more $ and make a decision from there . Thanks for your help BB
 
FWIW.... I'd start by pulling the plugs and inspecting the bores and see what shape they are in before I'd try turning over the engine... if decent, spray your fav magic potion in the bores and see if it turns over by hand.Raw water pump impeller likely crap, so I'd replace it before I try to start the engine.... Pull valve covers and make sure rockers, etc aren't rusted...Also, I'd dump the crank oil and check for water, refill with new (cheap ) oil. IF you get this far, try the existing starter ( just for diagnostic stuff b4 buying a marine unit) If you can start it and get coolant into it check for cracked parts.... Just how I'd proceed...
 
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Thanx, I accept what you have said about the drive being an undesirable component, It's apparent now that the heads and valve covers may be different , perhaps the engine had some issues .I didnt plan on proceeding with this until I verify its condition , and this whole thing may end up as a ' Hay wagon ' and the engine parted out . I will invest a little more $ and make a decision from there . Thanks for your help BB

It's not uncommon to see where some knuckle-head tossed a mismatched cylinder head onto an engine.


Pull the valve covers and read the cylinder head casting numbers.
They should both be the same.

If not, then you may have a difference in the combustion chamber volume.

Go to the Mortec website and look up the casting numbers.

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...XTop4KHXMKD3oQ7xYoAHoECA0QJw&biw=1252&bih=686



 
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