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125 force issues

I just rebuilt a 98/120
The motor fell off the pontoon it was on into
salt water and wasn't properly cleaned out.
It set for a year or more with salt water in it.

The carbs full of salt water so we replaced them.
I didn't adjust the bar on the new carbs
and the motor ran like crap.
That's why I was so anal about the bar and it
being set right????
 
I just rebuilt a 98/120
The motor fell off the pontoon it was on into
salt water and wasn't properly cleaned out.
It set for a year or more with salt water in it.

The carbs full of salt water so we replaced them.
I didn't adjust the bar on the new carbs
and the motor ran like crap.
That's why I was so anal about the bar and it
being set right????

I totally understand. I have done everything that I have been advised on plus reading the manual.and still cannot fix. Will keep trying, maybe I missed something. Has to be carb related. Ran great for about 2 hours, ran out of gas, fixed gage, now won't run good. Now the surging, maybe that is good. Maybe if I clean carbs again it will open something up.
 
I just rebuilt a 98/120
The motor fell off the pontoon it was on into
salt water and wasn't properly cleaned out.
It set for a year or more with salt water in it.

The carbs full of salt water so we replaced them.
I didn't adjust the bar on the new carbs
and the motor ran like crap.
That's why I was so anal about the bar and it
being set right????

Thanks again. I really appreciate your help!!!
 
All new fuel lines. I installed a clear filter before the pump, always had fuel but never more than half. Moved filter after fuel pump and noticed a lot of air bubbles. Does this mean that there is an issue with the fuel pump? New diaphragm and cleaned. Running worse than ever, surging and rough.
 
Ok, removed carbs, cleaned, cut new gaskets, re assembled. Ran better but still rough. Removed ignition coil and tested, 3 failed. Damn they are expensive. Will have to wait, no funding available at the moment. I sure hope if I sink this money into it that it runs good. Just an update...
 
3 coils bad??? NO WAY!!
Been working on Forces since 86 and
haven't seen 3 bad in 34 years????

How'd you test them?
There's really no way to test them except if ones
not sparking, then you swap it with one of the others.
Then if the no spark follows the old coil then it's bad.

I'd say if anything the stator is probably bad??
No fire on any cylinder:1. Check the resistance from each blue to the yellow wires, you should read approximately 300 ohms.2. Check the resistance from each blue and yellow wires to engine ground, you should read open circuit (Just like the leads were not touchinganything).3. Check DVA (Peak voltage) from blue to the yellow wires, you should read at least 180V.4. Disconnect the stator wires and check the DVA (Peak voltage) from each blue and yellow wire to engine ground, you should read no voltage orextremely low voltage.No fire on one cylinder:1. Check the resistance from the blue to the yellow wire on the pack not firing, you should read approximately 300 ohms. If the resistance is not right,check the other set of wires. If the other set is ok, gently pull on the wires close to the connector If the insulation stretches, the wire is broken insidethe insulation and a new terminal needs to be put on.2. Check DVA (Peak voltage) from the blue to the yellow wire, you should read at least 180V.

outboardignitiondotcom has test procedures for
outboards.
The DVA or Peak Reading Volt Meter is needed for the
more advanced tests.
The crazy: the stator can test good one second and then
bad the next time you test it :(
 
I removed each coil and tested with a multimeter.
#1 primary .5 secondary .99
#2 primary .5 secondary 0
#3 primary .5 secondary 0
#4 primary .5 secondary .26

On the 2 with 0, the plug wire is spinning in the pack.
# 4 is a black coil and is cracked. The other 3 are the blue ones.
Did I check these right? Watched YouTube video and read instructions.
 
I removed each coil and tested with a multimeter.
#1 primary .5 secondary .99
#2 primary .5 secondary 0
#3 primary .5 secondary 0
#4 primary .5 secondary .26

On the 2 with 0, the plug wire is spinning in the pack.
# 4 is a black coil and is cracked. The other 3 are the blue ones.
Did I check these right? Watched YouTube video and read instructions.

Not even sure if the black one is correct, no number to reference. Does not match the the replacement pictures for the blue ones.
 
[email protected] the place for
cheaper parts. coils 30$

The black coil can be used but not in conjunction
with the blue packs but people do and don't have
any trouble.
The black packs and coils are the upgraded product
made in 89/90 the factory said not to use with the blue
but lots have.
The difference is the connectors are backwards and
end up getting cut off and butt connected together.

Like I said there's not a good way to test the coils.
Other than swapping one for the other and then
checking for spark. How are you testing?
CDI doesn't sell coils and Outboard Ignition does.
But the test procedures aren't listed anywhere.
 
The black one is not even the correct one for this motor, this looks like a Johnson coil from my searching on the internet, definitely different from the replacement that is recommended.

I connected the multimeter to the ground and the red to the primary, should be less than 1 ohm. Then checked the plug wire after changing the Multimeter setting. should be less than 10000. This is what I have found on the internet and reading some posts. This is to check the resistance. If it fails this, it is bad. Can still not work on the motor if it passes though.

Is it worth buying used coils?

Thanks again.
 
Like I said before 3 bad coils?
I haven't seen 3 bad in over 30 years.

IF??? you buy used make sure you use PayPal
They help get your $ back if the product is bad.
 
Finally replaced all 4 ignition coils. Started up fine but would not shut off. Before replacement the key would turn off. What did I do wrong? I think I have it grounded properly, a lead to the mounting plate. Any ideas? Thanks
 
Sounds like a key switch problem?
Or a wire's not hooked back up?
outboardignitiondotcom or call CDI
http://www.cdielectronics.com/

Try spraying WD 40 IN the switch and turn it on/off/pushing in
on the choke a bunch of times(battery unhooked)

I tried WD 40, but did not work. Not sure how to check the ignition switch. I do get a shock when trying to check interlock switch. Did I hook up the new ignition coils correctly? Are the black ones different than the old blue ones? Definitely running a lot better just won't turn off. I am still a beginner so trying to go through the checks is confusing.
 
The difference in the coils isn't something that would keep the motor running when turned off.
The main difference is the connectors on the blue and black is they are backwards and can't be used together.
The blue packs can't be hooked too the black coils without cutting the connectors off and using butt connectors.

Is the kill switch even hooked up?
Sounds like the wrong key switch????
 
The difference in the coils isn't something that would keep the motor running when turned off.
The main difference is the connectors on the blue and black is they are backwards and can't be used together.
The blue packs can't be hooked too the black coils without cutting the connectors off and using butt connectors.

Is the kill switch even hooked up?
Sounds like the wrong key switch????

Worked great before changing the coils. Starts and runs better than it has since I purchased, just won't stop. Are you thinking ignition switch? Thanks again for all your help, I have learned so much😁
 
I am thinking about replacing the switch, can I use any 6 post, push choke switch? Also, how can I check for a ground wire issue? What wire could it be? Thanks again.
 
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