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Newbe buys 1958 Johnson 7.5 hp outboard

Wonder why you see so many cars burned up alongside the roads lately. If you don't see the car, you see the spot where it burned.....do they use pressure tanks on new cars? I wouldn't know, I drive a 1974 pickup. I can't help it if I'm a non confirming idiot. Sorry if I tripped when I shot this photo, but by the time I got up.....somebody was trying to buy my truck.....didn't have time to take another shot.
 

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Tapsnap said:
Hmm, well are there other things I could be working on while I wait to get a gas can? Maybe the gear case group?
Click to expand...

Have you tried spinning the flywheel? If it moves than you can start worrying about everything else. If the flywheel won't budge tilt the motor so the spark plugs are facing toward the sky, remove the spark plugs, fill the cylinders with penetrating oil and wait
 
That's a win.
I would get the new recoil spring, if you haven't already, and fix the spark plug boot. Cleaning the carb would be a good idea and there's a good chance that you'll need to change the water impeller. It's pretty easy but you do have to take the powerhead off so make sure to get a new gasket as well, both are pretty cheap. Also new spark plugs.

As far as your fuel tank issue just connect a fuel line directly to the carb and hook the other end to a tank, bottle, or whatever will safely hold fuel, and just put it on a ladder or something so the tank is higher than the motor and gravity will take over.

I'd also get new ignition coils and ignition tune up kit, both aren't expensive, but you might be able to get it going without it
 
Brother, have you done a compression test. Don't waste time or money until you see some sweet numbers....on that motor 85 or so.
 
For this pressure test, should I be rotating the flywheel clockwise or counterclockwise or doesn’t it matter?
 
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Turn clockwise looking from above with spark plugs out. Should build to max pressure at 5 to 6 brisk pulls.
 
Not bad numbers. May go up as you get motor going and use it. I have found that to be true over all the years of my work with these.
 
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I’m trying to remove the flywheel and I’m having trouble. I removed the three screws and the nut on the shaft. Now I’m using a pulley puller to pull up the fly wheel. The puller I have is really too small but it hooks into the upper grove and I can pull from there. It makes me a little nervous though, in case I damage it. I haven’t cranked down real hard yet. Is it OK to pull from that groove or should I get a larger puller and pull from the bottom of the wheel. Also, is there a trick to doing this?
 
STOP-----Use a puller that uses the 3 threaded holes.---Need at least grade 5 bolts 1/4-20 threads.----That is the only way flywheel should be taken off.
 
Whoa with that puller hooked the way you have it. You'll break something. Look around in your bucket of screws and bolts or go down to Home Depot and pick up a few that'll fit those 3 holes.

I use my air impact tool on the big bolt on my puller to pop the flywheel loose. That way you don't have to rig up a strap or something to keep it from turning while you tighten the bolt down on the puller with a wrench.

If you don't have the right puller you can get one at any auto parts store that'll work.

Z4JLIfy.jpg
 
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I just ordered a new puller. I’m taking the magneto assembly apart to replace the torn off ignition cable, but while I have it apart what are the other things I should be checking?
 
If nothing has been replaced over the years then all the electrical parts are 62 years old. I would change it all out which includes the coils, points, condensers and plug wires. You can change it all for less than a hundred bucks.

A lot of people like to test parts to see if they're ok or not and get a few more years service out of them which is good if you're on a budget and want to save a few bucks.

As for me I replace everything while I'm there rather than having some parts that might last another year or 2 or another 10 years or what ever. It's worth it to me to not have to screw around with it testing it and coming back and pulling the flywheel off again and again piecemealing parts. Of course there always that time when you get some bad new parts but it's not that often.
 
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In order to prolong points life, be sure to put a tiny dab of grease on points post. Make sure cam wick is in good shape and one drop of heavy oil like 20/50. Set coils carefully so as not to rub flywheel, also screw wires into coils, then set coils in place. Wires MUST be copper core.
 
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Good luck to you. It's a pretty good feeling of accomplishment when you get one that won't run to running as smooth as a sewing machine after you finish even though you might have to take it apart and put it back together a few times to get it right.
 
I finally got my new puller and was able to get off the fly wheel. Everything looks like it’s in relatively good condition. Those coils certainly don’t look like they’re 82 years old. I tested them for continuity and they’re good they measure 1.2 ohms resistance. Is this about what they should be?13988B7D-CD0B-4469-8B4C-1A513DFFACA8.jpeg839896F7-1D72-4AAC-B043-BF0A461C62F7.jpeg
 
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Maybe you need some glasses for your 82 year old eyes or learn how to read. I said 62 years old NOT 82. And I also said IF they have not been replaced... DUH!
 
Just for information, here's what happens when you use a puller on the rope groove. I have a stack of them. They'll still run, but will be out of balance, something you don't want at 5000 RPM.
 

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Oh Rook. Don't be so mean.....our OP isn't perfect......nobody is. There was only one perfect man that ever lived.....so it's told......and they tortured and killed HIM! That's why I never wanted to be perfect.....I made mistakes on purpose. Now they just come NATURALLY!
 
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So is 1.2 ohms approximately what they should read? I’m not familiar with this stuff so I really not sure if the need replacing. Transformers, chokes, and electric motors last for many many decades, as long as the don’t over heat or aren’t physically damaged. This is essentially the same thing isn’t it? What usually goes wrong with these things that requires them to be routinely replaced?
 
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I'm no expert, but those pictures look pretty good. You'll want to make sure the points are clean and check the gaps as those can get out of alignment. As for your resistance measurement someone more electrically inclined will have to answer.
 
Yes...I'm pretty sure. I gotta tell the truth......or I'll forget what I said.
Now to address OP question. The old coil coatings are made of a material that cracks....then it can arc through to ground. Sometimes they arc internally, but that is uncommon. Your coils are made of a better material and will last for decades. Resistance looks good.
 
Okay, good to know. The condensers/capacitors, I know from electronics, start to leak capacitance after about 20 years and probably should be changed, right?
 
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