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1989 454 raw water/heat exchanger cleaning help

I have low seawater output at the exhaust. I've used Barnacle buster in thru the raw water pump but no luck. Does the raw water circulate thru the heat exchanger from the pump as well? Input from the r/w pump is low as well using my flush bucket. It looks like the raw water pump is not sucking in water very fast even with a new impeller. Do I need to flush the heat exchanger from a different area?
 
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I have low seawater output at the exhaust. I've used Barnacle buster in thru the raw water pump but no luck. Does the raw water circulate thru the heat exchanger from the pump as well?
Yes, the seawater first enters the Heat Exchanger's tube bundle. (seawater inside of the tubes..... coolant on the outside of the tubes)
Within the tube bundle, it removes engine heat from the coolant.

With a "Full System", the coolant also removes heat from the exhaust manifolds.
With a "Half System", the coolant removes engine heat only.

In either scenario, the seawater then goes on to and out of the exhaust system.

Exhaust Elbows are always seawater cooled!

Within the Elbows, you will have a small port where the "spent" seawater will be introduced into the exhaust flow.
These ports must be clear and fully open as to NOT restrict flow.



Input from the r/w pump is low as well using my flush bucket. It looks like the raw water pump is not sucking in water very fast even with a new impeller. Do I need to flush the heat exchanger from a different area?
Let's start with what style and model seawater pump you have!
Is it belt driven?
Is it a crankshaft mount style?
Is the impeller depth correct for the pump body's depth? (a correct impeller will sit proud by approx .010")

NOTE: the smallest suction breach will prevent any seawater pump from working correctly.
In other words, from the pump back to the seawater intake area, there can be NO suction breach!

To test for a suction breach, your best option is to put the system under negative pressure (i.e., vacuum) ..... not pressure.
As you apply vacuum to the system (shop vac for example), you can use shave cream on the suspect areas.
The shave cream will disappear at any area of breach.


Side note:
One or both ends of the H/E should be equipped with a removable cover or plate or rubber cap component.
Remove it, and you will see the interior of the tube bundle (the seawater side).
A rod (of the correct OD and length) can be pushed through each tube as to clear it of any corrosive build up.

Basically, this is the equivalent of removing bugs and debris from your car/truck radiator.



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when was the last time the cam (inside the pump) was changed?

Is the bushing holding the shaft w/ minimal play?
 
Mark makes some good points.... take heed.



May we assume that it is a Sherwood pump?
Similar to this????



shopping



If so, this pump can be used for either a RH or LH rotation engine simply by indexing it 180* one way or the other.
It is imperative that it be indexed correctly for your engine's rotation.

It's also imperative that the suction hose be collapse proof.


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If you have back flushed the cooling system and still have low flow, may I suggest you try RydLyme descaler, I felt this product worked better than others.
 
I've used the rod method. A .22 rifle cleaning brush will work but one probably won't hold up to a pair of heat exchangers. A metal rod for the really hard tubes will help. If there a couple that you just can't get, not a big deal. I pop off both caps and put a flashlight on the opp end.


Bob
 
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