Logo
FULL SITE MENU

US Marine 85 Force outboard 1988 Model 856X8A

B

Bill Paterson

New member
Hi there from Scotland,

I have acquired and been working on renovating a boat, trailer and an 85hp Force engine and I am a little stuck on two fronts.

1. I have power to the tilt motor but it is refusing to go back down when i reverse the switch and the only way I have managed to achieve this is by releasing the hydrolic fluid. The engine has been lying dormant for some time (unknown) and needed work to free off the lifting pivot and the steering mechanism but this has been successfully achieved. I note, however, that there is a stainless steel striking plate behind the prop shaft which would appear to require to depress a stainless steel plunger when in the down position but this plunger remains depressed when the motor is raised and it appears to be stuck in the closed position. Can anyone advise me how to rectify this please ??

2. I have replaced the ignition switch with a new and similar model which has three positions (off, ignition on and start with a push choke) but i am not confident that i have the correct wiring to the connections. The original switch had six terminals labelled I, M, S, C, B, & M and the new switch also has six terminals labelled I, S, AM, B, M & C. Can anyone please clarify the correct colour of wires to each terminal.
My assumption is as follows; small red to I (ignition), white + white to M (Magneto), large red to B (battery), green to C (choke), yellow to S (start), blue + white to M (magneto), If anyone can clarify the correct connections then I would be most appreciative.

Best regards
Bill Paterson
 
#!" I note, however, that there is a stainless steel striking plate behind the prop(drive) shaft which would appear to require to depress a stainless steel plunger when in the down position but this plunger remains depressed when the motor is raised and it appears to be stuck in the closed position."
The "plunger" is actually the trim portion of the Trim @ Tilt.
When activated the trim comes out about 3 inches and then the tilt takes over and lifts the motor.
Over time the seals or washers dry out and seize the short plunger making it lock in place.
PB Blaster or any solvent sprayed on the plunger and tapping with a hammer(gently) might loosen it.

These units are really hard to take apart so be careful if you attempt???
IF??? it's been in salt water? hard to take apart becomes almost impossible
to take apart??

#2
I added some pics.
Usually the only switch that works for the Force is the OEM
But you might get lucky??
 

Attachments

  • Picture 012.jpg
    Picture 012.jpg
    167.8 KB · Views: 24
  • Picture 011.jpg
    Picture 011.jpg
    157.6 KB · Views: 20
  • Picture 010.jpg
    Picture 010.jpg
    179 KB · Views: 23
Thank you Jerry
After working on the boat today we have been successful in starting the engine so my wiring presumptions appear to be correct for now. We have tried the release oil trick and the gentle hammering on the point of the trim to no avail so we may have to strip it down for a look see at the seals as I have no clue as to the history of the boat and engine but we will be cautious. Would this explain why the motor is only working to raise the engine and we cannot lower it other than releasing the hydrolic fluid.

I am about to inspect the impeller and wondered where I could order a replacement if required. do you have a site for this item?/

Best regards
Bill
 
This site sells parts.
Top of this page, in the orange section, there's
a tab called "boat" "engine parts"
Navigate through there and find the part# and maybe buy
it there??
Or ebay sells parts.
The "cheapo, inexpensive" ones are usually made in
China and like all their products aren't the best.
Look for one that says Mercury, Force
You don't want it failing??
 
Back
Top