2004 Honda BF200 Stay Running Issue

It's likely that water got trapped in the key switch. Depending on what kind you have, you may be able to take it apart and dry it out. Spray with electrical cleaner.

I had planned to replace the switch panel for some time due to its age. Ordered and is expected to arrive Thursday 8/20/2020.

Anyone have any thoughts on why the engine would start cranking and actually run for 30 seconds while the switch panel was completely removed? That is what is bothering me now. Battery start switch was on, but it puzzles me how the engine would crank with the switch panel removed.

And the other issue of the #2 10A fuse being blown. Any information would be appreciated.

I would look at the main engine harness where it enters the engine cowl. The control cable anchor plate can pinch and damage the harness here
, I have seen this on a number of occasions

OK, received the new switch control panel. I compared with the old switch panel and noticed the long pig tail connector only has two wires (red/blue stripe, white/blue stripe). The old switch panel long pig tail has three wires (red/blue stripe, white/blue stripe, yellow/black stripe). The new switch panel does not have a yellow/black stripe wire that I can tell. I know the old switch (Part no. 36452-ZW7-210AH) was superseded by the new part no. 36452-ZW7-410AH. Can anyone give me any insight to the difference and will this new switch work? Pictures attached of the new and old.

Yes it will work, the only thing is the check eng light will glow dimly all the time buy go bright when activated. I have the same issue and don't worry about it. The alternative is to mount a separate old style light panel which I couldn't be bothered with.

Update: Hooked up the new switch panel and turned on the start battery switch. No lights on switch panel in off position. Turn key to on position, three lights on and two beeps. Turn key to start and engine cranks. After a few seconds, turn key to off position. Wait a few seconds, turn key to on position, only one red light (battery) and no beeps. Damn! Back to the way the old switch panel was acting. Turn start battery switch off. Turn start battery switch back on, still one red light. Scratching my head, all of a sudden motor starts turning over again with key in off position. Turn start battery off.

Taking iang6766's advice, start dismantling grommet where everything enters the cowling and inspect for any pinches. None. Trace wiring from switch panel and unplug the 3 pin connector and round multi pin connector and inspect. Nothing looks unusual. Turn start battery switch back on and plug three pin connector in. Then start plugging the round multi pin connector back in and motor starts cranking. Unplug and stop at this point. I really need someone who knows the electrical ignition of a 2004 Honda BF 200 to give me some insight. I went ahead and ordered the 20' wiring harness from the switch panel to the engine tonight as I really don't know what else to do at this point.

That's your best bet, there is a short inside the old harness, not a good idea to repair them anyway.

Today's update: Removed the old 20' harness from the boat. Sit down and did continuity test on all wires, all checked ok. The new harness (Part No. 39552-ZW7-020AH) is on its way and should be here late Wednesday. New grommet also ordered to put everything back together, as the old grommet is now somewhat disfigured. Figured it would be easier with a new grommet.

I did re hook everything (old switch panel, old switch harness, and old 20' harness) and turned on the start battery switch. Had the 14 pin round connector unplugged. Every time I starting plugging in the 14 pin connector, motor would start cranking. Checked the motor side of the 14 pin connector, one pin reading 12.63 volts, same as the battery. Couple of others read 0.23 volts, rest nothing. I plan to go by the parts store and get some electrical cleaner to spray the connectors and 10 A fuses as the #2 fuse is blown and I am out of them. Guess I will see what the situation is once the new harness get here. If anyone following this thread sees something in my description of what is going on and it sends up a red flag, please let me know your thoughts. Thanks!

New Update: Have installed new switch control panel, new switch harness, new 20' harness from switch harness to engine and still same results. Unplugged the S connector to the starter solenoid and switch panel acts normal, all lights and two beeps. I now have a new starter and solenoid on the way and went ahead and ordered the main relay also. Between the two, if they don't fix the issue, I will not know what else to do. I believe the No. 2 10A fuse continuing to blow is due to voltage being sent to the high pressure fuel pump when it shouldn't or amperage is too high/too long, a issue related to the faulty issue overall. We will see ...

Today's Update: Installed the new starter and got same results. Damn! Last item to replace is the main relay which comes tomorrow. Removed the old main relay today, not an easy removal. If this doesn't fix the problem, I do not know what else to do. At least I will have a lot of new on a 16 yo boat!

Could you disconnect every electrical connector you can find and reconnect them one them one at a time with battery power on? Connect the starter first, hopefully it will not start turning over on its own. When you plug in the connector causing your short, the starter should start on its own.

One trick I use on my old cars when looking for a short is to use a 2 filament taillight plug with a stop, signal, and park bulb in it. Connect the bulb connection wires on this plug across the fuse connection for the fuse that blows. Because of the short, the bulb will light and the elements in the bulb are strong enough so they don’t blow and the bulb stays lit. Use wires long enough so you can place the bulb where you can see it from wherever you need to work. When you find your short, the bulb goes ou, and while you are working on the short, you are not having to change fuses and the light tells you you have a short. Works on 12 volts and old cars, see if you can make it work for you.

If you want to use this trick, pick up a pigtail for any old car taillight at a junk yard or some place like Napa plus a matching bulb. If I’m not describing this well, let me know, I can send pics of my device and a better description.

Something like this or just buy a cheap light for a trailer.

https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/universal-tail-light-socket

Problem solved! Ended up being the Main Relay. Continuity tests indicated that contacts were stuck closed, new one arrived yesterday and installed today. Everything working as it should. Replaced everything from the switch to the starter, but that's ok as I had plans to do it anyway (16 YO moter with around 1200 hrs). Just glad it's over and can get back on the water!

TANKTOM, congrats of diagnosing and fixing the problem. It would be nice if you made a new post, something labeled "Testing Main Relay of BF200 and BF225 then describe the problem you experienced and the diagnostics you did. That will help others in the future.

This is a very rare occurrence, the thing that puzzles me is the fact that it only did it when the boat harness was plugged in and ignition turned off. Theoretically there should be no voltage going anywhere when the ignition switch is turned off, this doesn't make sense at all.

Thought I would post here before advertising elsewhere. I have all the old parts from the key switch to the engine available (switch panel, switch harness, 20' wiring harness). Once removed, all continuity tests pass, and obviously was not the problem (Main Relay replaced fixed issue). I did rob the 3 pin connector off of the old wiring harness at the engine to replace the 6 pin connector as described in another thread here. I will take $200 plus shipping for all of it. Let me know if interested. Thanks!

Anyone interested in $100 plus shipping?