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DYING 1954 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 CD11 outboard

W

Walking Bird

Member
Hi.
I have a 1954 Johnson Seahorse 5.5 CD11 outboard.
It has been used very very little in the last decade, or more.
Last season it would not stay running.
It seems to have lots of spark. I just put in a new carb kit, and the problem is still there.
The fuel tank pressure seems to be fine. The engine starts ok, but dies after a few seconds.
I don't see a fuel leak any where.
I'm not sure, but it seems when the water pump starts to pump good, the engine dies.
Could there be some kind of internal water leak killing the spark plug ?
If so, how would I check for that?
I am on a pension, so money is always an issue. With the cost of the carb kit, and new plugs, I don't want to put out much more, just to trouble shoot.
Hope someone can help.
Thank you
Walking Bird
 
ALL, yes ALL 1954 Johnsons have bad (cracked) coils unless they have already been replaced. Yes, they will have some spark but not run. Anyhow, that is the first thing to look at. As for cost, if you aren't prepared to spend a hundred $ or so on parts to make reliable, it is not a project for you.
 
Welcome to Marine forum sir. Have you checked compression? Has the head gasket been replaced?
 

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Thanks for the info.
I did replace the coils a few years back, but I could check them again.
As for the cost. I have already put out quite a bit on a 1958 Evinrude 5.5 fisherman, I am trying to get running. So my budget is getting thin for this year.
I will try testing the coils.
Thanks again
 
Walking Bird, once the coils are replaced they will last much longer than the original coils. Why? They have a more durable coating and will rarely crack or short out to the stator plate. If you can get ahold of a compression tester please get us the results....both plugs removed with strong brisk pull. Also you can test for a nice strong 3/8" blue/white spark using a helper to pull the motor over while you hold the safe end of Phillips screwdriver.
 
Hi.
I think I can rule out any ignition problems.
I tried spraying fuel into the carb directly, and that seemed to work.
I could keep it running as long as I fed the carb.

So, what is my next move?
I have rebuilt the carb.
I have not gauge to check the fuel tank, but I did try the soap test, like with a leaking tire, and could see no bubbles.
I have pumped the tank up as hard as I can, and will see how it is tomorrow, but would a very slow leak affect the flow?
Should I still try a compression test like one of you suggested, or is it a fuel flow problem.
Could it be one of the jets, or is it behind the carb.?
 
It's just got that push button pump. Right, will that keep it going? How far open are the jets? Does it have the sediment bowl? Some have a filter that can look clean but slow fuel flow. Is the fuel tank building pressure from the air line going down from the motor? Maybe that line is plugged, perhaps right at the fitting on the motor?
 
I know this is long winded, but there is a lot of info to post.

I left the fuel tank pumped up for 24 hrs, and there was no pressure loss to speak of.

When I pump up the pressure while attached to the motor, the pressure bleeds off.
I reset the jets to where it said on youtube video I watched.
About 1 turn on the high speed, and about 1 and a quarter on the low.
I can't keep it going by pushing the button on the tank, but I can by spraying fuel into the carb.
I kept it running for more then two and a half minutes.
The engine seems to start easily.
The carb has a sediment bowl, nice clean fuel in it. Filter looks good, but who knows. Might have to replace it.
When I put the carb kit in, I removed the fuel fitting to make sure the lines were in good shape. They were still fine. Flexible with no cracks or breaks. While I had it off, I sprayed carb cleaner into both sides, and it came out the other end, and I also sprayed cleaner into engine side.
I did notice a bit of a drip from a screw on the left of the carb., below the throttle linkage. I didn't touch it during the rebuild, so not sure if it's supposed to be tight.
I took it out, then replaced it. there were still tiny air bubbles, so I put it quite tight. Not sure what it's for. After tightening that screw, I started to notice the fuel running out of the carb. throat, as I pumped the pressure up. Not a lot but I don't think that should happen?
Tryed a pic, but post too big will try to post separately.
 
When you operate the primer button on the tank you are filling the carburetor with fuel.----When the motor start it pumps air into the tank at about 3/4 PSI and that keeps fuel flowing to the motor.
 
That's right. But should the pressure fall when it is not running?
Should I pull the carb. again, or is there an air leak some where in the reed plate?

I must admit I know very little, but I am learning.
 
There should be pressure in tank at all times. This also is beneficial, the closed system keeps the air entering the system sterile. Great great engineering, sir.
 
I had the tank on the motor most of two days, and there was barely any drop in pressure.
There was no loss of pressure after more than twenty four hours, on the tank alone.
Still think the tank is the problem?
 
There is a fine screen in the tank.---Bottom of the pick-up tube.----Is there a ceramic fuel filter in the glass bowl under the carburetor?-----Might inspect / clean those items.
 
That tank screen is very fine, looks like that could be your problem. I agree with Racer. Tank pressure sounds good. That composite filter is another suspect.....easy to check do do that composite filter first.
 
The filters/screens are okay to clean. Just might have to make yourself a new tank gasket. You should use an anaerobic sealer on both sides of the gasket, like Locktite 518. This will not be challenged by fuel. Be sure to use non oxy. DON'T USE ETHANOL
 
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Still run my 1954 5.5. Folks are amazed down at the boat landing. This is awesome engineering that deserves to live on. Let us know if you get things solved, sir.
 
Hi, Every one.

This morning I took the fitting off the fuel line to the tank. When I pushed the button, lots of fuel pumped out.
Then I connected it to the motor, and removed the line off the carb. When I pushed the button, lots of fuel pumped out.
I started the motor, and it was running smooth. After about ten minutes, I was adjusting the slow speed jet, and it stalled.
One pull and it started up.
I let it run for maybe twenty minutes, then adjusted the low speed again.
It was running smooth at low speed. Down to a good troll speed.
I let it run for more than 30 minutes. It started right up again.
I am thinking its time to try it on the boat. Not sure when I'll be able to get out.
I'll let you know.
Thanks for all the help.
 
No I didn't. I was reluctant to pull the one on the tank. It seemed to be working good, and I didn't want to mess with it. The filter in the carb bowl looked really good too. What I did find; is when I pulled the fitting off the the tank, and pumped it, the fuel that came out at first seemed to be quite dark, and pretty thick. Once I had that cleared, I sprayed a little card cleaner through the fitting. That may well have been the problem all along. Not sure when I will be able to get on the water, but I will let you know how it went. Thank you all for the help.
 
I went out on the water yesterday. Same problem.
I only went a little way, and when I gave it a little throttle it stalled.
Started right up, but would not stay running.
I have been phoning around for a new fuel filter for the sediment bowl, but no luck.
I might try just soaking the old one in carb cleaner. It looks really good ,but that may be deceiving.
I think I will pull the carb again, see if I may have missed something.
It has to be a fuel flow problem at higher speeds.

I also might try some sea foam.
I've been hearing it may help.
What a bummer!
 
Just remove the carb filter long enough for a test. Unless, of course, the tank is dirty/rusty inside. In that case, you have another problem.
 
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