Logo
FULL SITE MENU

65 evinrude 40hp.. spark and key issue

R

rhartman421

Regular Contributor
For a 1965 EVINRUDE 40hp with electric shift, do I need a key inserted and turned to ON to get spark when jumping the starter relay or starter motor?

I have no key but would like to test before I sink money in
 
Several ways to do it.

1. Unplug the plastic connector in the junction box.

2. Easier, remove one black wire from the ignition switch.

3. Easier yet, disconnect the black wires from the vacuum cut-out switch. OR disconnect one of the black wires coming from the magneto, below the flywheel.
 
The battery is not used to make spark on the plugs.----Do not try to connect 12 volts to any wires to try and get spark.-----Step #1 would to remove the flywheel for maintenance on that simple magneto.
 
racerone said:
The battery is not used to make spark on the plugs.----Do not try to connect 12 volts to any wires to try and get spark.-----Step #1 would to remove the flywheel for maintenance on that simple magneto.
Click to expand...

To remove i see it is a few bolts to remove? does the spring recoil for pull start stay put if I remove the bolts that hold it on? is the magneto under the flywheel? been reviewing schematic's all day.
 
Rwbutler said:
I would suggest 1,a compression test 2,check lower unit lube for contamination
Click to expand...

I read type c gear oil, I want to do a change. Is this different from standard marine lower unit oil 2 stroke found at auto stores?

How can I oil the cylinders? mystery oil? Does lower unit need to always be in water if turning over engine?
 
When running the motor , water must be supplied to the impeller to keep impeller from being ruined !----Use TYPE-C gear oil rated for electric shift.----Best to do a complete evaluation of this motor.----Test the electric shift.----Inspect generator / voltage regulator and shift switch.-----You will not enjoy this motor if you use the " crank and hope " repair method !
 
I am all for doing my homework, i can try a search on the recommended or anyone can post links to test. Do I need to order a key Switch to do the test?
 
You need to supply 12 volts + to the green wire going to lower unit.-----Turn by prop by hand , it should spin clockwise with some drag.----And lock up after 1/2 turn when going counterclockwise.
 
fdrgator said:
Unbolt the gen mounting bracket and lay it aside.
Click to expand...

Thank you, I see in the schematic its a few bolts. Will try tomorrow as well as taking flywheel off to check coils and points.

Any tips for removing flywheel, was hoping to impact the flywheel nut off and impact the flywheel puller if i run into any problems.

A good smack of the hammer might help. Wish me luck
 
Update: only used 1 washer on each screw, will try again with a 3 on each. Does the old leverage from underneath and a balking hammer work?
 
Does it matter how much of the middle puller bolt (the one you impact) is against the crankshaft? Is it more leverage if you have the shaft of the puller bolt out more?

I see some guys use long bolts to go into the flywheel. I used short bolts into the flywheel, also what type of bolts should i use? I sheared 2 sets of bolts and washers.
 
???----The middle bolt must contact the crankshaft !!----It must push on the crankshaft.-----The locking crank / flywheel tapers sometimes make removal difficult for a novice with a substandard puller.
 
racerone said:
???----The middle bolt must contact the crankshaft !!----It must push on the crankshaft.-----The locking crank / flywheel tapers sometimes make removal difficult for a novice with a substandard puller.
Click to expand...

It makes contact with the puller, my bolts are giving before the flywheel pops.. need better hardware going into flywheel
 
I cleaned the points, I noticed one has a gap in it. I have spark on the top cylinder!!!! No spark on bottom cylinder.

Maybe the gap in point is causing no spark. Is there a timing mark so I can measure with a feeler gauge.


feels great to have spark on one cylinder
 
Any tips on setting points, still have spark in one cylinder. Do the points close at the same time ? When one side is closed should the other set of points be open?
 
You need to get a manual and read it before attempting anymore repairs...you can see where your puller bolts contacted the coils !!!
 
The points open 180 degrees apart.----After all it is an alternate firing twin cylinder.----Yes you can set the points using a meter and the timing marks ( 2 of them ) on the flywheel. and the 2 vertical timing marks on the magneto plate.------Time too google---leroysramblings.-----Or ------universal magneto johnson and evinrude.-------Lots of stuff to help you do a professional ignition set-up.
 
racerone said:
The points open 180 degrees apart.----After all it is an alternate firing twin cylinder.----Yes you can set the points using a meter and the timing marks ( 2 of them ) on the flywheel. and the 2 vertical timing marks on the magneto plate.------Time too google---leroysramblings.-----Or ------universal magneto johnson and evinrude.-------Lots of stuff to help you do a professional ignition set-up.
Click to expand...

I owe you alot. I just got the spark plug tester to light on the second cylinder!

Moving onto carb i guess? Could it be all it took is cleaning points really well?
 
That badly chewed up coil is on the top cylinder. I'm surprised it still works.

Polish the flywheel and shaft tapers shiny bright and install the flywheel with tapers clean and dry. You MUST use a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 100-105 ft/lbs. Some auto parts stores will rent or loan you a torque wrench if you don't have one.
 
fdrgator said:
That badly chewed up coil is on the top cylinder. I'm surprised it still works.

Polish the flywheel and shaft tapers shiny bright and install the flywheel with tapers clean and dry. You MUST use a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 100-105 ft/lbs. Some auto parts stores will rent or loan you a torque wrench if you don't have one.
Click to expand...

Am I silly to not replace everything in the ignitions system? The old me would of bought parts and prayed for spark.

I ordered key switch replacement. What if i just impacted on crank but like the cool guys do ?
 
Does anyone know if the coil damage is indicative of a previously over torqued flywheel???? Not sure what else might have caused this
 
Like I stated in post #22.....Only use OEM points as the aftermarket brand fit/finish is quite lacking...you want the ones from Turkey
 
Back
Top