SternDrive SP290 SP-A – Reverse Latch Mechanism.

Hi Quick question if I may.
I believe I am getting wear in the Reverse Latch Mechanism as it can occasionally kick up in reverse, (normally when hard reverse thrust is urgently required)!
As the Bellows etc replacement is due at the end of the season I usually remove the whole drive and take them home for the winter to completely clean, test and paint etc.
So.. I am thinking it’s a good idea to overhaul the reverse latch mechanism, replacing parts etc as necessary.
The question is .. do you have to dismantle the intermediate housing?
The workshop manual shows the intermediate housing having been dismantled.
However I normally keep the drive in one piece just removing cylinder anchorage etc to avoid potential problems, (shimming O, rings etc).
Can you remove the bearing sleeve, guide washer etc without dismantling the intermediate housing from the main "Drive"?
Secondly ... there is mention of special tools / mandrels etc to push out and install bushings etc. ... are these essential?

Thank you in advance.

ASSUMING the reverse latch is properly adjusted, most often the tips of the spring hooks (#50 and #52) wear. These are readily replaceable without dismantling the intermediate housing, in fact, doeable while the drive is still on the boat. The only tricky part is disconnecting ( really reconnecting) the springs ( #56) to the shaft ( #48). Replace these springs and nuts (#53) while you are at it.
I should add, that the amount of wear on the spring hook tips that will cause you issues is so slight that you will have to hold the old hooks up to the new ones to compare. Be careful to follow the instructions in the OEM shop manual for tightening #53. PM me your email if you don't have the Volvo drive shop manual.

I've removed the whole reverse latch mechanism ( except for the bearing) and replaced it without dismantling the intermediate housing... It's a pain but doeable. The trick is that there is EXACTLY one relative position for the bearing, housing and lock brace that will allow you to remove the lock brace, and even in that position, it requires an "encouraging tap". I should point out that I have a 280 drive and there are a few differences, so... "your results may vary"...Spring hooks should be readily replaceable on your 290 though, without taking the intermediate housing off.

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moresparks said:

Hi Quick question if I may.
I believe I am getting wear in the Reverse Latch Mechanism as it can occasionally kick up in reverse, (normally when hard reverse thrust is urgently required)!
That would be a latch hook issue when/if the latch hooks have lost their crisp profile.

As the Bellows etc replacement is due at the end of the season I usually remove the whole drive and take them home for the winter to completely clean, test and paint etc.
So.. I am thinking it’s a good idea to overhaul the reverse latch mechanism, replacing parts etc as necessary.

The question is .. do you have to dismantle the intermediate housing?
The workshop manual shows the intermediate housing having been dismantled.
Yes, that would only be necessary if you were replacing the reverse latch bearing sleeve.

However I normally keep the drive in one piece just removing cylinder anchorage etc to avoid potential problems, (shimming O, rings etc).
Can you remove the bearing sleeve, guide washer etc without dismantling the intermediate housing from the main "Drive"?
Short answer.... NO!

Secondly ... there is mention of special tools / mandrels etc to push out and install bushings etc. ... are these essential?
In order to press the pivot tube down and out, you can use a slightly smaller diameter soft brass tool against the top of the pivot tube.
No special Volvo Penta tool is necessary.

Thank you in advance.

Click to expand...

By the way, there is no adjustment to the 290 reverse latch system.
The latch hooks connect to the Anchorage bracket's set pin equivalent, and is not fitted with a lift out release rod.

Brilliant....many thanks.
I am assuming it will all be much clearer when the drive has been removed and at home on the stand.
I just wanted to get ahead and order parts before starting the work.
There is a repair kit .... Volvo Penta 876265, so I will start with that.
From memory the “Guide Washer” ... 853967, could also do with being replaced.... hence the question.
Once again .... many thanks.

If you remove the entire drive, remove the transmission first, and then remove the remaining portion.
When going back together, do the opposite…… Transmission last!

Be very careful as you remove the suspension fork hinge pins!
These pins are rather soft, and can easily become expanded if you drive against them with a steel punch.
If they were to expand, you'll play hell getting them out.




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moresparks said:

Brilliant....many thanks.
I am assuming it will all be much clearer when the drive has been removed and at home on the stand.
I just wanted to get ahead and order parts before starting the work.
There is a repair kit .... Volvo Penta 876265, so I will start with that.
From memory the “Guide Washer” ... 853967, could also do with being replaced.... hence the question.
Once again .... many thanks.

Click to expand...

Well.... if you want to replace the guide washer, you will have to dismantle the whole thing....