Logo

1990 Mercury 90 stalling when going into gear after extensive rebuild

sciclunaneil

New member
Hi everyone,

I searched a lot through this forum and found a lot of help to get to where I am now, however after doing a lot of work and ironing out other issues, I'm stuck with this one.

This motor isn't a heavily used motor, used maybe 2-3 days in the summer season and recently it had been sitting around for a few years without use, it is very well taken care of and always cleaned after use and never left in the sea (it runs in salt water). It's the Mercury 90 HP 3 cylinder 2 stroke, 9506481 - 9589038 (Belgium) model.

Since it hadn't been running for some time, we did a full teardown of it (except the engine block) and refurbished the gearbox, water pump, rebuilt the oil pump, fuel and air hoses, replaced reed valves, gaskets, rebuilt the carbs and put in new plugs. At this point we tried running it and noticed that we had very weak spark and the motor was not running well at all, we isolated this to an issue in the stator and trigger (both readings were out of whack) and we replaced the stator, trigger and switch box, and the spark leads, checked the coils and they are good. Since then, we had very good spark and the motor out of the water runs like a champ, in the water it starts up quickly and idles well.

However this is where the teething issue started, after starting we let the motor get up the temperature and try to put it in gear, and when this happens it stalls. After a few times trying, it finally gets into gear without stalling, what seems to help is revving it up a little bit in idle before and then putting it into gear. At this point we did a full link and sync, adjusted the idle screw, idle RPM is to spec and it improved a bit but still happens from time to time. Carburetor mixture screws are around 1.5-2 turns out each, not much difference between them.

At this point after struggling a bit to get it into gear, we can use the boat and the motor goes up to full RPM like a champ, plenty of power, no issues at all, never stalls except for when trying to dock and going at very low speeds. We start noticing that the problem gets worse and the motor starts running rougher the longer we stay out on the boat (we stayed out for maybe 3-4 hours). Important to note here that most of the time spent running the boat is on plane and not at low speeds, this is only for docking or placing the anchor.

After and inspection, everything looks good, except for the spark plugs. The top and bottom plugs are shiny clean, no oil, as should be, but the middle one is jet black full of carbon soot, but it's dry to the touch, not wet. It was perfectly clean before we went out. The carbon cleans off with a brush and cloth.

From this point, to try to isolate the issue we tried, changing the plug, no difference, swapping the coils to see if the coil is causing the issue, swapping the lines on the switch box, again nothing, the issue stays on the middle spark plug only. One thing to note here is that the middle spark plug hole was re-threaded and a heli-coil was fitted. I am not sure if this could be contributing to the issue, but the spark plug fits properly and we're able to tighten it properly. On top of that we also did a compression check and the middle cylinder is not lower compression, all 3 cylinders are just under 90 psi.

Not sure what else to try at this point, also tried a different brand spark plugs, was using NGK originally and tried Denso, no difference. Anyone has any experience with a similar issue and can point me in the right direction? The only thing that's on my mind at the moment that we haven't checked are the crank-case bleed check valves, however in the manuals I can't seem to find exactly where they are, does the crank-case need to be split to test and/or replace these? I attached some pictures of the motor, as you can see it still looks new.

Appreciate any help. Thanks for taking the time to read through.

IMG_8900.pngIMG_5407-min.jpgIMG_7581-min.jpgIMG_5938-min-min.jpgIMG_7487-min.jpgIMG_7559-min.jpg
 
Need to index flywheel and check timing on that cylinder....

We did write numbers on it and used a light gun connected to the cable of the middle spark plug and turning the engine with the starter and only the number assigned to that cylinder was firing, tried the others as well, looked good. Is this what you were referring to? Thanks.
 
Hi everyone, another season and the same problem persists. I was wondering if anyone could help out with this please, it would be greatly appreciated!
 
Hi, yes spark gaps very well, DVA valued are good as well. This rotation point is interesting though. One point with this cylinder is that it has a helicoil as a long time ago the thread had stripped due to overtorquing but the motor had run perfectly for many years after that.

How would I know if the sleeve has rotated? Not sure what to look for? Thanks.
 
The fuel pump diaphragm looks suspect to me as well as the gaskets I would replace them, If the pump operates off crankcase pulses from the Nr. 2 cylinder this could be the problem.
The motor should idle in N at 900 rpms then set it with the idle screw [not the carb adjustment] to run at 700rpms in forward in the water; then adjust each carb screw 'til it runs and accelerates smoothly.
90 psi seems a little low to me, what brand/type of oil are you using?
Still sounds like a low speed circuit problem did you set the float levers to factory settings?
Didn't see if you changed the plug wires - don't use auto wires.
 
Last edited:
The fuel pump diaphragm looks suspect to me as well as the gaskets I would replace them, If the pump operates off crankcase pulses from the Nr. 2 cylinder this could be the problem.
The motor should idle in N at 900 rpms then set it with the idle screw [not the carb adjustment] to run at 700rpms in forward in the water; then adjust each carb screw 'til it runs and accelerates smoothly.
90 psi seems a little low to me, what brand/type of oil are you using?
Still sounds like a low speed circuit problem did you set the float levers to factory settings?
Didn't see if you changed the plug wires - don't use auto wires.

Hi thanks for replying. The photos of the fuel pump diapgram are from just 2 uses after the rebuild with all completely new original quicksilver parts. Yes as far as I know, the pump operates from pressure of the middle cylinder, but if this is the issue, what do you think could be cause of only the middle plug fouling? The motor also runs well at low RPM. When we start off with a clean plug, it goes into gear just fine, idles fine, accelerates fine, runs at WOT fine, it seems that after a few hours of running, the middle plug fouls and then the problems start.

Yes the idle rpm is good, both out of gear and in gear.

Regarding the compression, it did seem a bit low compared to other numbers I've seen but all the cylinders are even. I am not sure if its the guage I'm using. Re oil, it's quicksilver, however not sure why you ask this, what do you have in mind could be the issue? Re compression check, I did this dry with the motor cold, also seen recently that this should be done at WOT with choke on but when I took those numbers it was just starting with throttle in the normal position.

Re plug wires, yes they are new, again original quicksilver parts.

Thanks,
Neil
 
Throttle does not need to be open for a compression test !!----Choke is NOT involved with doing a compression test either.
 
I've experienced this same problem. In my case, the new rings did not seat properly, allowing exhaust gas to pollute the intake charge. That makes the motor loogy at low speed and tends to stall when put into gear.


You said the comp readings ar also low: that would dovetail nicely with my theory.

Jeff
 
The fuel pump diaphragm looks suspect to me as well as the gaskets I would replace them, If the pump operates off crankcase pulses from the Nr. 2 cylinder this could be the problem.
The motor should idle in N at 900 rpms then set it with the idle screw [not the carb adjustment] to run at 700rpms in forward in the water; then adjust each carb screw 'til it runs and accelerates smoothly.
90 psi seems a little low to me, what brand/type of oil are you using?
Still sounds like a low speed circuit problem did you set the float levers to factory settings?
Didn't see if you changed the plug wires - don't use auto wires.

I have a 2002 model and the manual clearly states that compression tests below 120 PSI, expect problems. I'd say you are quite a bit low. The helical coil fix may have upset the heat sinking of the #2 plug but the plug would be wet and showing signs of fouling rather than being dry. Not an expert here but I think the compression tests being equal would eliminate a rotated liner as the problem. I never got into it but if the fuel pump works off the #2 cylinder, I'd look at that circuit for leaks of some sort...degraded components. Don't remember if you said you redid the fuel pump or not. Anyway that's my limited experience comments.

Oh the 700 RPM in the water in F gear, boat moving is the manual number for idle setting (by varying the timing lever set point)...fast enough to keep the engine running but slow enough to keep from crunching the gears. The manual specifies the low speed adjustment for the carbs is opened just enough to "firewall the throttle in the hole shot" and the engine accept the load and keep going.

All I ever run in my Mercs of the series are NGK and use the gapped vs surface gap type listed in the manual or cross referenced to Iridium in my 115 2+2.
 
Last edited:
That beng sooty is indication of rich mixture(carbflood/fuel pump leak)or late ignition timing(trigger/switchbox)
 
Last edited:
That beng sooty is indication of rich mixture(carbflood/fuel pump leak)or late ignition timing(trigger/switchbox)

We tried playing around with slightly leaner mixture on that carb, but then the motor doesn't run as smoothly, so the current seting seems to be the most optimal. It's also very similar to the other carbs (all around 1.5-1.75 turns out).

The trigger is brand new and we tried both swapping out with another switchbox and also swapping the lines between cylinder 1 and 2 on the switchbox (making sure the timing is still the same) and issue was the same. So that eliminates the swtich box for me.

Re the fuel pump leak, what is your theory here? I guess if it's leaking or flooding, it would effect all cylinders not just the middle one right?

Thanks,
Neil
 
Back
Top