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Hydrolocked in the parkinglot

So I connected most of the stuff back to the bell housing and it wasn't easy. I installed all the bellows on the gimbal first including the shift cable, used the adhesive. It wasn't extremely difficult but anyways, have to be careful. I installed the oil hose which in my opinion should be installed first so that you have room to push, that's pretty difficult to do. I used a ziptie to secure it.
20210217_154213.jpg
The water hose you see mounted had to be removed as it has to go on the bell housing first. Than I put it in and had to spray WD-40 to get it to slide in and make sure already have the clamp in there before the hose.
then came the bellows and I installed the exhaust shaft first, adhesive on bell housing also, and work it with the special tool. First 2 times I had to redo because it came out upon tightening it. But the 3rd time I made sure it was all the way up and I do think the adhesive also cured for the 10 minutes the manual recommends to wait so it is not tacky, and it held. Pain in the ass and might require 2 people and lots of light and patience. Tighten from below and the little tab/clip has to go underneath because otherwise when raising the motor it could snap out. That clip if original is bolted on to the bellow. I saw it in the numerous videos I watched.
20210217_161214.jpgThis is a picture from below.

So now I am at the main bellow and in the manual it says to slide it to the second groove. I mean there's a raised lip on the bellow and a groove on the housing.
20210217_180715.jpg
I don't see 2 lips.

20210217_180149.jpg20210217_225916.jpg20210217_225849.jpg
And then to hammer the ring sleeve on does the bell housing have to be attached to the gimble?
Anyways that's where I am at right now
 
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I will defer to those who have assembled hundreds or even thousands of these drives in the course of their lifetimes, but as I recall, the rubber bellows has to be seated in the groove of the bell housing or else you'll never get the sealing ring in place. It's go or no go.
The clip thingy is to connect the hose clamp to the drive electrically. You don't want the hose clamp to dissolve thru electrolytic corrosion, so by connecting it to the drive and the boat's bonding system it won't. The Mercathode system was developed to minimize this effect but the jury is still out regarding its effectiveness. If you keep the boat on a trailer, then this isn't really a factor. If you keep the boat in salty at a marina, then the conditions for electrolytic corrosion are very likely. Fresh water not as much, but it can still happen if the boat lives in the water full time.
 
gica69 said:
So I connected most of the stuff back to the bell housing and it wasn't easy. I installed all the bellows on the gimbal first including the shift cable, used the adhesive. It wasn't extremely difficult but anyways, have to be careful. I installed the oil hose which in my opinion should be installed first so that you have room to push, that's pretty difficult to do. I used a ziptie to secure it.
View attachment 26191
The water hose you see mounted had to be removed as it has to go on the bell housing first. Than I put it in and had to spray WD-40 to get it to slide in and make sure already have the clamp in there before the hose.
then came the bellows and I installed the exhaust shaft first, adhesive on bell housing also, and work it with the special tool. First 2 times I had to redo because it came out upon tightening it. But the 3rd time I made sure it was all the way up and I do think the adhesive also cured for the 10 minutes the manual recommends to wait so it is not tacky, and it held. Pain in the ass and might require 2 people and lots of light and patience. Tighten from below and the little tab/clip has to go underneath because otherwise when raising the motor it could snap out. That clip if original is bolted on to the bellow. I saw it in the numerous videos I watched.
View attachment 26192This is a picture from below.

So now I am at the main bellow and in the manual it says to slide it to the second groove. I mean there's a raised lip on the bellow and a groove on the housing.
View attachment 26193
I don't see 2 lips.

View attachment 26194View attachment 26197View attachment 26198
And then to hammer the ring sleeve on does the bell housing have to be attached to the gimble?
Anyways that's where I am at right now
Click to expand...

The bell housing must be attached to the gimbal ring to complete installation of bellows. If not you will not be able to "beat" the retaining ring into place.

Once you install bell housing to ring, You can easily pull bellows into position. Then use driver and plastic disk (special tool) and it may take many attempts to get compression/retaining ring to seat.

As you "beat" the ring into place, once seated you will if you are listening, you should hear a tone change. Similar to using a hammer and driver to install gimbal bearing. Once bearing seats there is a tone change.
This is similar with the retaining ring.

You are trying to seat this ring into a rubber bellows. It is a bit tricky the first few times one tries this.

You should have a round plastic disk (special tool) to seat the ring into the bellows.......

I suggest applying bellows adhesive to outer bellows lips before pulling into bell housing for added adhering of rubber to housing.

Also one thing I do is the hinge bolts used to secure the ring to bell housing, I put a light coating of grease on the threads. The screws are SS and the bell housing is aluminum. Dissimilar materials. The aluminum threads oxidize over time and can strip out easily. A little grease then torque to correct spec and all will be good!
 
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kghost said:
The bell housing must be attached to the gimbal ring to complete installation of bellows. If not you will not be able to "beat" the retaining ring into place.

Once you install bell housing to ring, You can easily pull bellows into position. Then use driver and plastic disk (special tool) and it may take many attempts to get compression/retaining ring to seat.

As you "beat" the ring into place, once seated you will if you are listening, you should hear a tone change. Similar to using a hammer and driver to install gimbal bearing. Once bearing seats there is a tone change.
This is similar with the retaining ring.

You are trying to seat this ring into a rubber bellows. It is a bit tricky the first few times one tries this.

You should have a round plastic disk (special tool) to seat the ring into the bellows.......

I suggest applying bellows adhesive to outer bellows lips before pulling into bell housing for added adhering of rubber to housing.

Also one thing I do is the hinge bolts used to secure the ring to bell housing, I put a light coating of grease on the threads. The screws are SS and the bell housing is aluminum. Dissimilar materials. The aluminum threads oxidize over time and can strip out easily. A little grease then torque to correct spec and all will be good!
Click to expand...

Thanks as far as the hinge bolts doesn't the manual say to use 271 loctite?
As far as the bellow, I do have the special plastic tool but my question
Was on how the lip of the bellow stays on the second groove of the housing. I don't see a second groove just first groove. I assume I don't need adhesive.
 
I understand they reccomend loctite,
Believe me when I suggest different.
the tourque spec is 90 lb/ft.
that will hold by itself!

When you pull the bellows through bellhousing you will understand.
The ring creates a pinch/swage on the bellows when seated.
If you ask me, SH!T design.

To prone to incorrect install by way of ring not seating easily.
Not sure why the change from a design that worked for 30-40+ years....
 
Not sure why the change from a design that worked for 30-40+ years....

I may be way off base but I'm guessing the decision was financial.
 
Ok so when the round lip on the bellow goes into the groove that's half inch from the edge, that's considered in place. And no adhesive right?
If you look closer ast the picture there seems to be a seconf lip forming at an angle almost like thread.
20210217_225916.jpg20210217_225849.jpg
I will figure this out, yesterday it got dark by the time I tried to do this. It's always better during the day. it's not rocket science. I just hope I have it twisted to the full top upwards position. Maybe that second lip it's the one they are talking about.
 
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I have done many hundreds of bellows for Gen I's but only a couple for Gen II.

The bellows will fit one way that looks and feels right. If not in the correct location the ring will NOT go in and seat.
 
kghost said:
Here is an image from Manual 14 it is a better image and more realistic of the parts you are using.

Where did you get your image of the bellows with the double ring?????


View attachment 26204
Click to expand...
Got the image from the net but the manual has the same image. The one on the net had someone mark unrelated stuff on it
20210218_133125.jpg20210217_232210.jpg
 
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Got it and it's actually the same as the parts. Don't know why mine has more lips.
I got the ring in.
20210218_140232.jpg
I took a picture showing the edges of the bellow and the ring. Put some soapy water and it went right in.
I got the bell housing mounted and the only thing I have left is the shift cable bellow small clamp. How far on the cable do I tighten it. Some videos show it all the way to the inner bell housing. But I don't think mine can reach that far. There seem to be different models shown out there.
20210218_170711.jpg20210218_170717.jpg20210218_175709.jpg
The only thing left is the water pump on the lower drive. Oh yeah I seem to have misplaced the plastic tube and guide that connects the water pump housing to the drive housing. ****.
I also built a stand for the drive so I can work on it easier. Picture coming
20210218_175312.jpg20210218_175320.jpg
Rear 2x4 should have been underneath the top to hold better but it's a temporary build.
 
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Ok I found the black coupling so here is what I have.
20210218_220416.jpg20210218_220423.jpg
The pipe goes down all the way the piece on the right slides down the pipe to the bottom and the coupling goes on top. There is no sleeve. Any of you have this setup? Making sure there is no white plastic sleeve
More pics inside the drive
20210218_221518.jpg20210218_221524.jpg20210218_221548.jpg20210218_221604.jpg
I don't see where there could be another piece as the water pump housing has 2 inches height from the surface of the upper drive
 
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On the short shift cable bellows,
Use a cable tie at skinny end. Not the steel ring supplied with kit!
 
o2batsea said:
Not sure why the change from a design that worked for 30-40+ years....

I may be way off base but I'm guessing the decision was financial.
Click to expand...

I have worked on a couple Swedish fish outdrives and they use this method so that is where it comes from. Infact the last bellows I replaced was not rubber. It was synthetic/plastic,
 
My pictures are from Mercruiser Service Manauls I have in PDF.

Use this site to look up parts and possibly buy them.
 
You should not need the tube or coupling assembly unless damaged or burnt up.


The coupling, just replace the orings. Even if the orings didnt come with the coupling, just grease up what is there and reuse if need be.
If the coupling is burnt/damaged order a new one.

The sleeve should fit into the coupling. Not much there to hold it but it fits. I have run into a few that did not fit, so best to buy Mercruiser parts not sierra.


Also the price seems better here on this site and I think you can buy just one. You dont need two


NOTE: It is always best to buy MERCRUISER parts for most outdrive repairs. Sierra parts are ok but for limited things. (Gaskets, orings, odds and ends)
But Mercruiser should be used on major parts replacement.

Sierra has a history of parts not being exactly the same.......

I ALWAYS order Mercruiser parts only when I do Anything outdrive related.
(boots, bellows, hoses, water pumps etc.)


Many engine related parts (starters, alternators, gaskets etc) are marine grade GM or similar so almost any source will work just like with auto repairs.....
 
The tube (incoming water supply) has cold lake or hose water flowing thru it, the sleeve does not.........Exhaust flows through that area and if hot exhaust with no little or no water mixed in hits the sleeve for long periods of time or it is too hot as in the engine overheats then it melts........Same as the Gen I sleeve.
 
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