Hydrolocked in the parkinglot

Weird ting but yesterday I spent all day working to finish my two 2-stroke waverunners and only around 10pm I decided to go to my 1997 Maxum 5.7L to just start it and clean it a bit for the next morning.
To my surprise the engine would try to crank and lock up. I thought it was the battery being low. So enabled the dual charger and waited, tried again and same thing. I opened up the engine area at the transom and under the engine there was a lot of black, nasty water touching the engine, and of course the drain screw was on(my bad). I remember after going fishing a few month back, before Covid, I pressure washed the floor and never thought I had the drain blocked(brain fart). So I cleaned up the engine compartment and tried again, no luck the starter sounded like it wasn't engaging(wasn't a click, click sound) weird sound as if it was free spinning and not touching the flywheel. So my friend suggested that it may be hydro locked.
I said how the heck I started it a month before when I did the pressure spraying. I did have water running at the engine.
So how the heck did I get the water to stay in the cylinders, yes I took off all 8 plugs and spun the engine from the main pulley and water rushed right out not from all but both sides.
I read about the risers getting rusted being cast iron, manifolds to go with, some said something about the risers being too low sometimes, but only if coming to a quick stop on water and engine overheated it could cause water to get in. Not my case here, never had that problem, and only the last trip was on salt water. Ran a hose with fresh water for 20min right afterwards.
The starter turned out to have the plastic cup with the planetary gears completely worn out. Maybe from the hydro lock.
By the way the oil doesn't look contaminated but I will change it with the filter.
What else should I do, should I see if the heads are bad, read about unplugging a hose and filling with water till morning to see if t leaks inside the motor.
Sorry for the long plot but wanted to fully explain.

So now it has been sitting for a month with water in the bores. Hoping for the best, but this may have killed it. I would want to borescope those cylinders to see if they rusted up.

Also sounds like you broke the starter and/or ripped the teeth off the ring gear on the flywheel.

Get a hook!

Sorry.

Jeff

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gica69 said:

................... no luck the starter sounded like it wasn't engaging(wasn't a click, click sound) weird sound as if it was free spinning and not touching the flywheel.
If a new starter motor did not cure this:
.... Remove the starter motor.
.... Have a helper roll the engine over by hand while you inspect the entire circumference of the flywheel ring gear.

So my friend suggested that it may be hydro locked.
I said how the heck I started it a month before when I did the pressure spraying. I did have water running at the engine.
To do this safely, you will want to turn the water supply ON just as the engine is being started.
As you prepare to shut down, turn the water supply OFF just prior to shut down.
I read about the risers getting rusted being cast iron, manifolds to go with, some said something about the risers being too low sometimes, but only if coming to a quick stop on water and engine overheated it could cause water to get in. Not my case here, never had that problem, and only the last trip was on salt water. Ran a hose with fresh water for 20min right afterwards.

The starter turned out to have the plastic cup with the planetary gears completely worn out.
I dislike those starter motors that incorporate the reduction system with a nylon ring gear. They almost always fail prematurely.
Hopefully the nylon ring gear failed before enough torque could "rip the teeth off the ring gear on the flywheel".

I'd suggest that you try to find a replacement starter motor that incorporates all steel reduction gears.


By the way the oil doesn't look contaminated but I will change it with the filter.
What else should I do,
If you suspect the exhaust elbows, I would remove them and have them pressure tested.... or better yet, replace them.

should I see if the heads are bad, read about unplugging a hose and filling with water till morning to see if t leaks inside the motor.
I would not suggest doing that.

Click to expand...

The purpose of the plastic parts on the starter is to protect the ring gear. I would put back on what Mercruiser put on. I think their engineering expertise trumps this guy's ^.

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The purpose of the plastic parts on the starter is to protect the ring gear.
The real purpose of the nylon planetary reduction "ring gear" is to cut production costs.

I would put back on what Mercruiser put on.
If that includes a starter motor that incorporates a nylon planetary ring gear, that would not be advisable.

I think their engineering expertise trumps this guy's ^.

Perhaps then this can be easily explained.

Click to expand...

As usual, Rick thinks the Mercruiser engineering staff are morons, and that he knows better. I'm sure that his personally-approved line of marine starters are the best on earth. Where do we go to buy them Rick?

What's with the doom and gloom guys, you remind me of CNN!!
The water is no longer in the cylinders. I turned it by hand water came out and I squirted oil in the chambers. The starter plastic piece was destroyed but the flywheel is fine.
The cylinders are fine, but the water got in there somehow and wanted to know how to test if the heads are bad or the risers and manifold. I know about the rust so no need to point out. And why is typing so f'ed when replying?

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gica69 said:

What's with the doom and gloom guys, you remind me of CNN!!
Had you been a long time member here, you'd see that it's more like Dan Ackroid and Jane Curtain doing their version of Point/Counter-Point on the old Saturday Night Live.

The water is no longer in the cylinders. I turned it by hand water came out and I squirted oil in the chambers.
The starter plastic piece was destroyed but the flywheel is fine.
Good to hear that!

The cylinders are fine, but the water got in there somehow
It would be best if you would start the engine up and blast any remaining water out of the cylinders, even if only for 10/20 seconds.

and wanted to know how to test if the heads are bad or the risers and manifold.
A cylinder leak-down test will help reveal what or where the problem is.
Risers/Spacers are generally not suspects, but manifolds and elbows should be on the list.

I know about the rust so no need to point out.

And why is typing so f'ed when replying?
Not following you on that one!

Click to expand...

On the typing a reply....this is what I found helps to mitigate the issue:

In the quick reply box, click the top LH button (popup shows "Switch Editor to Source Mode" when you hover over it). The button will get highlighted (turned on) and text entry should go back to normal....

So I did the compression test and they are all between 160 and 170. Only one at 170 the rest 160 and 165.
I went online to look at the 2 barrel 5.7L mercruiser carburetor rebuild and I noticed that my choke plate doesn't stay all the way closed upon starting and opens in 2 minutes, it moves freely by hand like it is not attached anywhere. so before I go ahead and take out the risers one by one to inspect for blockage I would like to get the 650rpm idle back.

So I took the port riser, elbow and manifold out. There is rust but not complete blockage. Will dip it in some CLR cleaner and hopefully will clean most of it out. The rest just brush it.
I want to clean the carb off any dirt, should I just rebuild it or clean it?

More pics

And more stuff

Well I guess if it turns easily and the compression numbers look OK, which they do...then go with it. The best thing for the engine is to use it. But do a couple oil changes maybe every 20 hours or so just to be on the safe side.
When it comes to marine parts, when in doubt, throw it out.
I mean, really, ask yourself if you're worth spending the half stack on new manifolds. They gotta be replaced at some point anyway so whatever you do to de rust them is only delaying the inevitable.
If you wanna go to the trouble, there are stainless elbows out there that will fit and won't rot.

I was asked on TheHullTruth forum about flappers on the Y pipe. I don't think there are any. can they be installed now or do they come with it?
By the way this boat has less than 80 hours on it only fresh water plus one salt.
I still have to figure out where the water in the cylinders came from. Mystery of the year.

How we’re all the cylinders filled with water but there was none in the base?

That's the hundred dollar question. I don't know, like I said the boat got hydro locked sitting, I started it a month before and it was fine. After, I think we had some heavy rains but there is a small cover over the flame arrester. Maybe it went through. I found water in the bilge area, went up to the oil filter inch up on it.

I wanted to revive the thread with updates on the issue.
So I replaced the manifolds and elbows with another set. Replaced the flappers also put everything back sealed properly.
rebuild the carburetor with a kit from Mikes Carburetor which seems to be the most complete, also bought and installed a brass float.
everything is back and I started it.
It was running great few adjustments here and there and THEN I noticed that no water comes out of the back of the exhaust.
I am including pictures of the hose connector.


Ok so inside I have picture of the plastic removable blue plugs one had some hot water the lower had none.

I am also including pictures from the back where the port side hose goes, and the picture of the thermostat housing.
What can I do next. I am researching where the bottle neck is. it has to be between the outside hose and the thermostat housing.
Compression was great on this. SO remember the story as it initially transpired the boat was water locked and not while on water but in the parking lot. SO whatever caused that might still be around.
Thanks guys.

I am looking at the water pump and I see a lot of the salt build up outside of it. Funny because it has only seen salt once. So why all of this white stuff? Is it a stuck thermostat?

Looks like there is/was something coming out of the weep hole on the underside of the pump. This indicates that the circulating pump has blown seals and requires replacement. Start there. I would also remove the thermostat housing and inspect the condition, installing a new thermostat and gasket when reassembling.
If the date code on those hoses is true, I would do all new rubber all around. Shields hose highly recommended.
The only place I can imagine that might be leaking is the intake manifold. Is there any evidence that it was removed or disturbed ( no paint around the gasket area, big gobs of silicone sealant, etc)? All bolts tight?
These are just plain and simple problems that you'd expect from an older boat.

o2batsea said:

Looks like there is/was something coming out of the weep hole on the underside of the pump. This indicates that the circulating pump has blown seals and requires replacement. Start there. I would also remove the thermostat housing and inspect the condition, installing a new thermostat and gasket when reassembling.
If the date code on those hoses is true, I would do all new rubber all around. Shields hose highly recommended.
The only place I can imagine that might be leaking is the intake manifold. Is there any evidence that it was removed or disturbed ( no paint around the gasket area, big gobs of silicone sealant, etc)? All bolts tight?
These are just plain and simple problems that you'd expect from an older boat.

Click to expand...

I just ordered the water pump it's an ac delco and the thermostat.
There have been no work done on the intake. I did the exhaust as mentioned above. I have had the boat for awhile but only took it in salt water once.
On another thread someone mentioned a raw water pump in the leg? Where could that be?

Im no expert in Alpha drives, but my understanding is that there is a seawater pump in the drive. You want to be sure that the rubber impeller hasn't come apart and little bits of it aren't clogging or slowing the flow throughout the entire cooling system.
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/m...-up/gear-housing-driveshaft-standard-rotation

o2batsea said:

Im no expert in Alpha drives, but my understanding is that there is a seawater pump in the drive. You want to be sure that the rubber impeller hasn't come apart and little bits of it aren't clogging or slowing the flow throughout the entire cooling system.
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/m...-up/gear-housing-driveshaft-standard-rotation

Click to expand...

The impeller on #27?
So the all that needs to come apart.
Is there another way to see if there is blockage?
Mine is a 97 but probably similar.

If you haven't put in a new one since owning the boat then yeh, you really should. There are probably several YouTube vids that will show you how. I think it must be a fairly easy job.

FYI, throw the rectangular flush muffs right in the garbage.... They suck. Cheap round muffs work the best.

So I took out the water circulation pump and the thermostat. Here are some pictures

This is where the water pump was leaking from

Is there a way to use the flush hose and connected to see if I get water to the lower hose that is now disconnected from the water pump?

So to take off the lower drive there are 4 bolts and it comes right off? Or I have to disassemble the propeller shaft etc?

Ordered this water pump kit:Amazon.com: Quicksilver 817275Q05 Upper Water Pump Repair Kit - MerCruiser Alpha One Gen II Drives and Vazer Drives: Sports & Outdoors
Do I need any other special gasket sealer or grease for this?
When the lower drive goes back does it only use the little oil ring for the oil and that's it?

[FONT=&quot]And I also have another question when I used to put it in gear it sometimes took longer to engage I would have to put the lever higher and it would engage, on water though I think only reverse did this somewhat. Is there something I can do for that or is that just adjustment from the cables?[/FONT]

I encourage you to support the hosts of this website by buying from their online store. This site has already saved you hundreds of dollars, so please return the favor and buy here if you can. Their price for the same kit is very competitive with other vendors:
http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=SIE18-3147

Let's work on the shift adjustments after you have it all back together.