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  1. #151

    Default Re: Hydrolocked in the parkinglot

    Ok put it all back together and there is a problem I cannot engage reverse. Everything was set up by the book. So I removed the shift cable
    and had it marked with a sharpie on neutral and forward, and somebody was shifting at idle and I filmed underneath to show what it does. Again this is just shift cable loose and manually shifted. It does the same with everything attached.

    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s7em1u8hb08wlsc/AACllRM_JYoNR24Zr72s4lIUa?dl=0


    I wonder if the shift shaft got bent on removal and reinstall enough to cause it to not go all the way to the wall of the drive? Just read about that.

    The water circulation problem has been resolved by changing the 2 water pumps. So the reverse is the new and pressing problem.
    Last edited by gica69; 04-08-2021 at 07:50 PM.

  2. #152

    Default Re: Hydrolocked in the parkinglot

    I definitely don't assume to have your experience, for sure, my engine is a 5.7L. I have had this boat since 2006, bought it used. I used it for water skiing pulling inflatables, some fishing etc. The fins didn't change things 100% but it felt more stable on choppy waters. It was ok before also as far as handling, so what you said is valid for sure.
    My problem now is the reverse issue. It always took awhile to get it in reverse, had to lower the remote handle a lot more than the forward movement. Now it won't engage at all. Moving the throttle shifter too far shuts off the engine, and as you saw in the video doing it manually at idle doesn't engage it.

    I wonder if the shift shaft got bent on removal and reinstall enough to cause it to not go all the way to the wall of the drive? Just read about that.
    Last edited by gica69; 04-08-2021 at 07:50 PM.

  3. #153

    Default Re: Hydrolocked in the parkinglot

    Here's the second video explaining more.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/v4q9kmyshf...oblem.mp4?dl=0


    I am going to remove the lower drive again and double check the linkage, the cable and plastic end etc.

    In the video I show how the reverse only locks the propeller when I hold it with my fingers. Why that is is my question.

    Removing the lower drive should show if moving the shift shaft without anything on it engages the reverse fully therefore the problem could be in the linkage mechanisms above, or if it doesn't the problem could be below.
    Last edited by gica69; 04-08-2021 at 08:53 PM.

  4. #154

    Default Re: Hydrolocked in the parkinglot

    OK took off the lower drive and made a video on it.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/okhmw6zpft...Part2.mp4?dl=0

  5. #155
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Northboro, Ma, USA
    Posts
    5,722

    Default Re: Hydrolocked in the parkinglot

    Trim outdrive up 2 inches from all the way down.
    Take keys out of ignition!!!!!!!!!!!
    Have a second person stand at the prop.
    You, remove the short shift cable from the shift bracket. The one that goes to the outdrive.
    After the cable has been removed, push the plastic cable end all the way in and hold in place while prop is being spun C’Clockwise..
    Have second person rotate prop counter clock wise until the prop is fully engaged and wont turn anymore. Maintain light effort on shift cable plastic end pushing it to keep forward engaged.

    Measure the distance from the center of the brass trunion to the center of the round mounting hole in the plastic end. Adjust trunion to make that distance 6 inches. no more no less! In cases where the shift cable is old but still works well you can adjust this dimension to 5 15/16”. NO MORE.

    Put shift control handle in forward FULL throttle position.
    Remove the control shift cable from shift bracket at this time.

    Install short shift cable back onto bracket at this time.

    Take the shift control cable and adjust the barrel so it fits perfectly back into the shift bracket.
    Before completely installing it turn the barrel 4 complete turns away from the plastic end and reinstall into shift bracket and install the nuts but do not tighten at this time.

    Now put shift control handle in the neutral position.
    Have second person spin prop, it should spin freely.
    Put shift control into the forward detent position at ~ 10:00 position. NO FUTHER.
    Have the second person rotate the prop counter clockwise. You should have solid engagement with no ability to continue to turn the prop.

    Now shift back into neutral. Prop should spin freely with no clacking or clunking.

    Now shift to reverse to the 2:00 o’clock detent position NO FURTHER!!

    Have the second person spin the prop clockwise.

    If you have positive engagement with no clunking or jumping out of engagement, you are done.

    If it does not fully engage into reverse than look at the shift bracket where the short shift cable mounts and there is a slot. Loosen the 7/16 hex that is touching the bracket and move the stud so you are pulling the short cable.

    If this all works then tighten all nuts down making sure the cable ends move freely and the nuts are not tight against the shift cable ends. The studs must spin freely inside the cable ends.

    Try this and retest in water under load.
    If the stalling when shifting into forward or reverse still occurs then you may need a short shift cable replacement or the shift linkage in the bell housing has issues. Either way the outdrive will have to come off. The short shift cable should move very easily. If you feel a lot of resistance that typically means the cable is bad. The shift interrupter switch is activated when the short cable feels resistance when trying to come OUT of gear.
    So if the resistance is present when shifting into gear the interrupter switch will be activated and it should not be.





    Anyway there are tests that would tell you if the cable is bad but to difficult to type out here but in general if you remove the shift control cable from the shift bracket, shift the control handle to full forward/wide open throttle and make a mark on the cable end, now go full reverse and repeat. Measure distance between marks, (2 7/8" to 3 1/8") anymore and replace the control cable.

    Short cable measurement test,
    Remove short cable from shift bracket, push all the way in and spin prop by hand C’clock wise until full forward is made. After it is in forward gear, with person holding prop in gear you pull lightly until resistance is felt, then make mark 1 on steel threaded tbe at end of plastic connector onto metal threaded tube.

    Pull cable for reverse, spin prop clockwise, person holds prop.
    Push cable lightly until resistance is felt the make mark 2 on threaded tube..

    Measure between marks.

    The measurement should be, if I remember correctly 1/2 " to 9/16". Anymore and the cable or linkage is bad.
    Jack
    Mass.

  6. #156

    Default Re: Hydrolocked in the parkinglot

    Thanks for taking the time to type so much info. I did post a video that details a lot of what you wrote. I did most of the stuff.
    Shift cable is new Amazon.com : Quicksilver Lower Shift Cable 865436A02 - for MerCruiser Stern Drives: MC-I, MR, Alpha One and Alpha One Gen II : Automotive Manual Transmission Shift Cables : Sports & Outdoors
    I did all of the adjusting and I could not get the reverse to stick. At the end I removed the shift cable completely and tried to push it manually and as before it would go into forward easily but reverse would engage only if I held the cable pulled in place but with the clunking sound as soon as I released the cable it would jump out of reverse. Again same thing happened with remote cable installed and adjusted as you said. When I installed the drive the shift shaft and the roller gear shaft fell out of alignment and rode on top of the shift shaft. But this happens a lot to people and I don't think it could easily bend the shaft right? Watch the 2 videos below if you haven't already. Thanks man.
    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s7em1u8hb...r72s4lIUa?dl=0
    I removed the lower drive and did a video on that showing how it engages the propeller when I move the shift shaft directly.
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/okhmw6zpft...Part2.mp4?dl=0
    See if you can tell anything by looking at these 2 videos. And how can I eliminate the lower drive clutches and shift shaft as the culprits? Thanks in advance.
    Last edited by gica69; 04-09-2021 at 07:46 AM.

  7. #157
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Northboro, Ma, USA
    Posts
    5,722

    Default Re: Hydrolocked in the parkinglot

    Check your messages
    Jack
    Mass.

  8. #158

    Default Re: Hydrolocked in the parkinglot

    I did read and re'read. So you don't think the problem is inside the lower drive?
    The drive is out now. You think I should put it back and redo what you mentioned, even though I already did some of it?
    Just a quick question, if I used just the shift cable manually for reverse and could not get it to fully engage, doesn't that tell you something?
    The cable goes to the shift shaft and the linkage.
    I mean the forward engaged easily while the reverse was stubborn and did not.
    I am thinking of installing the drive without the roll bar linkage that wat I can use the shifter shaft manually and make sure the drive is fine. That way I will know for sure if the problem is above.
    Last edited by gica69; 04-09-2021 at 05:31 PM.

  9. #159
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Northboro, Ma, USA
    Posts
    5,722

    Default Re: Hydrolocked in the parkinglot

    I said in my message to call me.
    This needs conversation not text
    Jack
    Mass.

  10. #160

    Default Re: Hydrolocked in the parkinglot

    So I finally put it all back together and there was only one issue, the temperature gauge kept going up and down from the middle marker which I assume is 175 to half way to the next marker which would be 185 or so. I mean kept going back and forth between those 2 no matter at what speed I was at.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/omrl3aw4ii...Gauge.mp4?dl=0

  11. #161
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Northboro, Ma, USA
    Posts
    5,722

    Default Re: Hydrolocked in the parkinglot

    What temp thermostat? 140 or 160?

    If a 140* thermostat the temp will run around 160

    If a 160* thermostat it will run around 180

    Double check water hose from bell housing to transom to see if pinched/kinked when drive is down.
    Jack
    Mass.

  12. #162

    Default Re: Hydrolocked in the parkinglot

    S H I T I bought the 160. I will order the 140 kit right now. Didn't even know there was a 140. As I read on this 160 is the proper temp so why the heck do they even sell the 160?

    Do I need to do this?
    Mercruiser 5.7 air bubbles in cooling system - YouTube
    If so where are these hoses and attachments/connectors available at?
    Last edited by gica69; Yesterday at 03:44 PM.

  13. #163
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Northboro, Ma, USA
    Posts
    5,722

    Default Re: Hydrolocked in the parkinglot

    Look up the specs for your year engine.

    They have different thermostat specifications and typically the spark plugs follow that.......
    Jack
    Mass.

  14. #164

    Default Re: Hydrolocked in the parkinglot

    SPECIFICATIONS:
    Cooling System Capacity 15 Qts (14.1 L)
    Thermostat (Type) Stainless Steel 160 F (71 C)
    Thermostat (Type) Brass 143 F (60 C)
    That's what I get in the Cooling section
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have the 4 hose housing. So I need the 160 degrees? That's not good. I have to measure the temp with a laser temp device.
    Last edited by gica69; Today at 03:05 AM.

  15. #165
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Northboro, Ma, USA
    Posts
    5,722

    Default Re: Hydrolocked in the parkinglot

    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	26645
    Jack
    Mass.

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