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Hydrolocked in the parkinglot

Ok put it all back together and there is a problem I cannot engage reverse. Everything was set up by the book. So I removed the shift cable
and had it marked with a sharpie on neutral and forward, and somebody was shifting at idle and I filmed underneath to show what it does. Again this is just shift cable loose and manually shifted. It does the same with everything attached.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s7em1u8hb08wlsc/AACllRM_JYoNR24Zr72s4lIUa?dl=0

[FONT=&quot]I wonder if the shift shaft got bent on removal and reinstall enough to cause it to not go all the way to the wall of the drive? Just read about that.[/FONT]

The water circulation problem has been resolved by changing the 2 water pumps. So the reverse is the new and pressing problem.
 
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I definitely don't assume to have your experience, for sure, my engine is a 5.7L. I have had this boat since 2006, bought it used. I used it for water skiing pulling inflatables, some fishing etc. The fins didn't change things 100% but it felt more stable on choppy waters. It was ok before also as far as handling, so what you said is valid for sure.
My problem now is the reverse issue. It always took awhile to get it in reverse, had to lower the remote handle a lot more than the forward movement. Now it won't engage at all. Moving the throttle shifter too far shuts off the engine, and as you saw in the video doing it manually at idle doesn't engage it.

[FONT=&quot]I wonder if the shift shaft got bent on removal and reinstall enough to cause it to not go all the way to the wall of the drive? Just read about that.[/FONT]
 
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Here's the second video explaining more.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/v4q9kmyshfd8zrw/ReverseIssueProblem.mp4?dl=0

I am going to remove the lower drive again and double check the linkage, the cable and plastic end etc.
In the video I show how the reverse only locks the propeller when I hold it with my fingers. Why that is is my question.

Removing the lower drive should show if moving the shift shaft without anything on it engages the reverse fully therefore the problem could be in the linkage mechanisms above, or if it doesn't the problem could be below.
 
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Trim outdrive up 2 inches from all the way down.
Take keys out of ignition!!!!!!!!!!!
Have a second person stand at the prop.
You, remove the short shift cable from the shift bracket. The one that goes to the outdrive.
After the cable has been removed, push the plastic cable end all the way in and hold in place while prop is being spun C’Clockwise..
Have second person rotate prop counter clock wise until the prop is fully engaged and wont turn anymore. Maintain light effort on shift cable plastic end pushing it to keep forward engaged.

Measure the distance from the center of the brass trunion to the center of the round mounting hole in the plastic end. Adjust trunion to make that distance 6 inches. no more no less! In cases where the shift cable is old but still works well you can adjust this dimension to 5 15/16”. NO MORE.

Put shift control handle in forward FULL throttle position.
Remove the control shift cable from shift bracket at this time.

Install short shift cable back onto bracket at this time.

Take the shift control cable and adjust the barrel so it fits perfectly back into the shift bracket.
Before completely installing it turn the barrel 4 complete turns away from the plastic end and reinstall into shift bracket and install the nuts but do not tighten at this time.

Now put shift control handle in the neutral position.
Have second person spin prop, it should spin freely.
Put shift control into the forward detent position at ~ 10:00 position. NO FUTHER.
Have the second person rotate the prop counter clockwise. You should have solid engagement with no ability to continue to turn the prop.

Now shift back into neutral. Prop should spin freely with no clacking or clunking.

Now shift to reverse to the 2:00 o’clock detent position NO FURTHER!!

Have the second person spin the prop clockwise.

If you have positive engagement with no clunking or jumping out of engagement, you are done.

If it does not fully engage into reverse than look at the shift bracket where the short shift cable mounts and there is a slot. Loosen the 7/16 hex that is touching the bracket and move the stud so you are pulling the short cable.

If this all works then tighten all nuts down making sure the cable ends move freely and the nuts are not tight against the shift cable ends. The studs must spin freely inside the cable ends.

Try this and retest in water under load.
If the stalling when shifting into forward or reverse still occurs then you may need a short shift cable replacement or the shift linkage in the bell housing has issues. Either way the outdrive will have to come off. The short shift cable should move very easily. If you feel a lot of resistance that typically means the cable is bad. The shift interrupter switch is activated when the short cable feels resistance when trying to come OUT of gear.
So if the resistance is present when shifting into gear the interrupter switch will be activated and it should not be.





Anyway there are tests that would tell you if the cable is bad but to difficult to type out here but in general if you remove the shift control cable from the shift bracket, shift the control handle to full forward/wide open throttle and make a mark on the cable end, now go full reverse and repeat. Measure distance between marks, (2 7/8" to 3 1/8") anymore and replace the control cable.

Short cable measurement test,
Remove short cable from shift bracket, push all the way in and spin prop by hand C’clock wise until full forward is made. After it is in forward gear, with person holding prop in gear you pull lightly until resistance is felt, then make mark 1 on steel threaded tbe at end of plastic connector onto metal threaded tube.

Pull cable for reverse, spin prop clockwise, person holds prop.
Push cable lightly until resistance is felt the make mark 2 on threaded tube..

Measure between marks.

The measurement should be, if I remember correctly 1/2 " to 9/16". Anymore and the cable or linkage is bad.
 
Thanks for taking the time to type so much info. I did post a video that details a lot of what you wrote. I did most of the stuff.
Shift cable is new Amazon.com : Quicksilver Lower Shift Cable 865436A02 - for MerCruiser Stern Drives: MC-I, MR, Alpha One and Alpha One Gen II : Automotive Manual Transmission Shift Cables : Sports & Outdoors
I did all of the adjusting and I could not get the reverse to stick. At the end I removed the shift cable completely and tried to push it manually and as before it would go into forward easily but reverse would engage only if I held the cable pulled in place but with the clunking sound as soon as I released the cable it would jump out of reverse. Again same thing happened with remote cable installed and adjusted as you said. When I installed the drive the shift shaft and the roller gear shaft fell out of alignment and rode on top of the shift shaft. But this happens a lot to people and I don't think it could easily bend the shaft right? Watch the 2 videos below if you haven't already. Thanks man.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s7em1u8hb08wlsc/AACllRM_JYoNR24Zr72s4lIUa?dl=0
I removed the lower drive and did a video on that showing how it engages the propeller when I move the shift shaft directly.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/okhmw6zpft...Part2.mp4?dl=0
See if you can tell anything by looking at these 2 videos. And how can I eliminate the lower drive clutches and shift shaft as the culprits? Thanks in advance.
 
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I did read and re'read. So you don't think the problem is inside the lower drive?
The drive is out now. You think I should put it back and redo what you mentioned, even though I already did some of it?
Just a quick question, if I used just the shift cable manually for reverse and could not get it to fully engage, doesn't that tell you something?
The cable goes to the shift shaft and the linkage.
I mean the forward engaged easily while the reverse was stubborn and did not.
I am thinking of installing the drive without the roll bar linkage that wat I can use the shifter shaft manually and make sure the drive is fine. That way I will know for sure if the problem is above.
 
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What temp thermostat? 140 or 160?

If a 140* thermostat the temp will run around 160

If a 160* thermostat it will run around 180

Double check water hose from bell housing to transom to see if pinched/kinked when drive is down.
 
Look up the specs for your year engine.

They have different thermostat specifications and typically the spark plugs follow that.......
 
SPECIFICATIONS:
Cooling System Capacity 15 Qts (14.1 L)
Thermostat (Type) Stainless Steel 160° F (71° C)
Thermostat (Type) Brass 143° F (60° C)
That's what I get in the Cooling section
Thermostat.jpeg
I have the 4 hose housing. So I need the 160 degrees? That's not good. I have to measure the temp with a laser temp device.
 
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I got the 140 stat kit, swapped it and started the boat in the parking lot, so now the gauge temp stays still at around 160-5 but upon using the new and improved laser double pointer thermometer I got temps at around 135 on the sensor/housing so the gauge is way off. My question now is leave it be until I get on the water again? I am confused as to why temps on a Mercruiser 5.7L are OK at 140-160(seem cold) when on a Chevy Trailblazer 4.2 they stay between 195-210.

Also I am trying to locate a place that releases intake pressure to use a pressure gauge to adjust the carb air/fuel mixture.
 
1. Temp readings from outside coolant water can only be a reference. Good to have a base line in case something actually does go wrong.
Get infra red temp readings from several locations but it is only reference

Marine uses lower thermostats temps to help reduce salt build up. Lower temps salt stays crystalized and moves out of engine/manifolds easier. Higher temps causes salt to go into diluted solution and more likely to stick/saturate all iron surfaces. (my explanation)


YOU CANNOT COMPARE MOST MARINE SPECS WITH AUTO SPECS.......................SO DONT TRY

No need to adjust with vacuum gauge.
Turn screw (s) in until engine rpm starts to lower. Turn out 1/2 turn.......................DONE
 
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So to be clear on the fuel mix. I started at 1 turn and a quarter from closed and then I turn out until rpm goes down, then what I did was go the other way until it wnt down again and split in half.
But am not to sure that's right.
If I understand what you said turn in toward closed until rpm goes down and back out half a turn. Would that be lean?
 
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No,

With engine warmed up, Idle set to about 600-700 rpm.

Adjust mixture screw (s) OUT slowly until you reach MAX rpm. Then one at a time, turn screw IN slowly until engine rpm starts to decrease. Once this occurs turn screw OUT 1/2 turn and your done (both screws)
 
kghost said:
No,

With engine warmed up, Idle set to about 600-700 rpm.

Adjust mixture screw (s) OUT slowly until you reach MAX rpm. Then one at a time, turn screw IN slowly until engine rpm starts to decrease. Once this occurs turn screw OUT 1/2 turn and your done (both screws)
Click to expand...

I took the boat out a few times and it is running pretty good, the only issue I have noticed was the engine cutting out when coming off reverse, cannot remember if it did it from forward also. Restarts right away, I don't know if it has something to do with the cutoff switch by the starboard side riser where the shift cables go. So all in all that's the thing right now. It could be the carb adjustment.
 
man, what a trip this post was. so much info..
what was the resulting from the reverse not engaging?
how much money did you spend on tools to do these jobs you will probably never need again?
 
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Bad shift lever (where small wheel is on vertical shift shaft in gimbal housing) caused by F shaped aluminum cable end set screw to tight and F shaped cable end tilted causing wheel to be worn away.

Replaced shift arm with wheel and lossened F cable end to allow rotational movement but no forward/backward slop
 
stang32 said:
man, what a trip this post was. so much info..
what was the resulting from the reverse not engaging?
how much money did you spend on tools to do these jobs you will probably never need again?
Click to expand...
It wasn't that bad and for me it's also a hobby, I have always fixed my own everything, from all the cars, boat, 2 jetskis, electronics, home, and from time to time I give marital advice to younger women only, hahaha.
The boat shifts like new, it has never shifted better. Engages right away and drives perfect.
The only issue I have now with it is when I am in forward and want to shift to neutral sometimes it cuts off, or maybe from reverse, cannot remember which. Doesn't do all the time. I am sure it's the carb adjustment.
But Kghost is really the mentor here on this forum and he helped me a lot. great voice by the way. Thought mine was great
sounds like a radio host, Michael Savage that I listen to from time to time. Thanks man you are the best.
 
kghost said:
Bad shift lever (where small wheel is on vertical shift shaft in gimbal housing) caused by F shaped aluminum cable end set screw to tight and F shaped cable end tilted causing wheel to be worn away.

Replaced shift arm with wheel and lossened F cable end to allow rotational movement but no forward/backward slop
Click to expand...
.
how in gods name did you find this issue?
 
stang32 said:
.
how in gods name did you find this issue?
Click to expand...

30 years of Mercruiser repair experience with a side of specializing in Alpha outdrive shifting problems.

There is not much I have not seen that can cause problems from the Shift control box to the clutch dog in lower unit.

When your typical boat owner/back yard mechanic does shift system parts replacement such as short shift cables they #1 do not understand how the whole system works and how each part in the link is supposed to work.

When you work in the business and have to fix a paying customers boat you are expected to understand the possible problems, how the entire system functions and fix it right the FIRST time.


As an example, Years back I was called to a dock for a customer on vacation for a week. Inline 4 cylinder Mercruiser. They were pissed their boat would not work and the kids were very frustrated never mind the parents!

Problem: Engine would stall when shifting- forward or reverse going into or out of either.

Boat: less than one year old.

Root cause: On a Mercruiser shift cable bracket (mounted on valve cover for this model) the spring loaded V notch where the interrupter switch is and controls ignition interruption when shifting out of gear. The main large bolt that held the V notch in place (which is a shoulder bolt and when tightened properly allows V notch to move freely) had been over tightened by Mercruiser when installed at factory.

Quick fix at dock: Add a lock washer to threaded part of shoulder bolt so when tightened the shoulder was fully exposed to regain freedom of movement of the V notch.

Final fix: Warranty New Valve cover as the surface where the shoulder bolt should have rested when tightened was not there due to over tightening of original shoulder bolt causing shoulder to recess into valve cover reducing exposed shoulder causing it to pinch the V notch.
 
"""The only issue I have now with it is when I am in forward and want to shift to neutral sometimes it cuts off, or maybe from reverse, cannot remember which."""

Shifting to slowly from gear to neutral will cause this. Shifting should be quick and firm from either gear back to neutral
 
yes Jack, i hear you, i was called to a boat this week. well actually i was called in april but finally got to it this week, the boat woudl trip the main breaker under the kiey switch and would not start last year, customer tried fixing it , swapped ignition switches, replaced breaker, etc, now the breaker doesnt even trip, no power to breaker, (twin v/p) i found a dead short on the purple wire,( ignition wire) and found and replaced the blown 40A fuse located on the engine and got power back to the breaker, now i started looking at the ignition system, in talking to the customer he mentioned that he just changed all the gauges last year, " ok, did the problem occur after or before the gauges were replaced?"
he said after, so now i pull the cluster out and start inspecting the wiring, disconnected the main feed wire and the short was gone on the ignition switch, further inspection found 1 purple(power) wire connected to the same terminal as a negative.
easy fix once you get all the info from the customer but i could have spent hours tracing the wiring.
its all about experience and knowing what to ask.
 
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